Diy Canoe Building Plans Meaning

Category - Sailing Ships

All the the plans offered on The Model Shipwright and The Model Shipwright blog are available on this site in high-resolution model ship building beginners 5th. The images on the blog posting are linked directly to the page here with the downloadable model ship building beginners 5th, or you can search from this page by ship type, ship name, or the historical period in model ship building beginners 5th it was built.

We put a lot of work in tracking down these plans, and in some cases digitized them ourselves and put in time cleaning up and repairing the images to model ship building beginners 5th them more useful. We have digitally watermarked them to identify them as coming from this site. Motor Vessels Ships for which the primary motive of propulsion is an engine.

Sailing Vessels. Oar-powered Vessels. Coast Guard Vessels. We offer plans of U. Coast Guard vessels ranging from early sailing cutters of the revenue service to modern motor vessels such as the buoy tender White Model ship building beginners 5th. War Ships.

Ships whose primary purpose is warfare are cross referenced on this page, whether motor, sail, or oar-powered vessels. Cargo Ships. Ships whose primary purpose is cargo transport are cross referenced on this page, whether motor, sail, or sjip vessels. Utility Vessels. Ships whose primary purpose is to serve the maritime industry, such as pilot vessels, tugboats, or lighters are cross referenced on this page, whether motor, sail, or oar-powered vessels.

You can download the plans directly from the website. Go to the page of plans you want, and left-click on the plan image to open the image file. The plans can be opened with any image-editing or preview software. Save it to a removable drive and you can take bjilding drive to a local copy shop to be printed on their large-format printer.

Do you have any? Any recomendations? One of the best experts on the subject was Howard Chapelle. He probably answers the question in one of his many books on sailing ships. Ship Type French tanker Mekong. North River Schooner.

Plan of an Ancient Trireme. Coast Guard cutter White Sumac. French ship-of-the-line Montebello. Rigging and sail plan barque Erasmus.

Tugboat Hercules. Can you email me one page showing it? Do you accept donated paper plans? I may thin out my collection. Can anyone help? Shi have some GA plans for some tankers, what are you begimners for? Leave a Reply Cancel reply.

Main points:

There's zero some-more rewarding than being out upon the light summer day in the sailboat we assembled with your own dual hands. I've combined the couple of fishing boats as well as I even right away get utterly the bit wish inside constructing the medium boat.

1 A Star forty 5 Category establishes as their accredited skeleton the set of strains as well as drawings model ship building beginners 5th a accredited anxiety as well as model ship building beginners 5th skeleton for a category !

The role of no lapse is when we put a desk pad again in for a second time. Sailboats have been costlyif you'll cruise in it for extensive distances.

Milling the wood to the dimensions needed to build this model does require a miniature table saw and a regular woodworking table saw or band saw. Additional information on milling the wood will be covered in the next step of these instructions. To build this model, a set of plans are needed. For this model, I needed to create the frame drawings in particular. After doing some additional research I was able to find the two key drawings needed to loft a set of frame drawings.

A body plan and waterline drawing for a Colonial Fishing Schooner very similar to the Hannah. These drawings were drawn by a gentleman by the name of Howard I. Chappelle, who is no longer alive, however, many of the books he wrote on naval architecture are still found in bookstores today. Using Chappelle's body plan and waterlines, I was able to loft a set of frame drawings for my model.

Photos of some of my CAD work are shown with this step. Some of these drawings would not fit on a single sheet of paper, so 2 or 3 drawings were created that can be taped together to form the complete drawing using the black reference lines found on both halves.

You might also want to browse my website to see additional photos of my construction of the Hannah model as well as some other models I've designed in AutoCAD and buit from scratch.

After downloading the ZIP file, unzip it to any directory you wish to work from. These files all have meaningful names that you can easily distinguish. You will be told what drawings need to be printed for each step of these instructions.

To aid in the framing of the model, a special jig is used. This jig holds the framework in perfect alignment until the outer hull planking is applied. I'll cover the construction of the jig in full detail later in this Instructable. Please do not be intimidated by the complex appearance of the finished model. These instructions will explain the complete construction of the model in step by step detail.

Anyone with wood working skills should be able to build this model, provided of course, that they have the proper tools. I will be covering tools needed as well.

So let's get started! First, I'd like to cover some of the tools you will need to build this model. Here is a list of tools I find helpful in all of my model building Not every tool is needed to build this model. I will tell you what tool I used for making each part at the beginning of each step of these instructions : 1. Micro Saw Blades Micro Mark 5.

Dremel Rotary Tool Micro Mark 6. Helping Hands Micro Mark 7. Variable speed scroll saw or Jewelers Saw for cutting out frames - Micro Mark 8. Swiss style watchmakers tweezers Micro Mark Deluxe pin vise Micro Mark Dimensioned mini-square Micro Mark Steel machinist square Micro Mark Angled high precision micro shear Micro Mark Tweezer nose pliers Micro Mark Mid size file set Micro Mark Sand It Micro Mark Micro drill bit set Micro Mark Office clips, small and medium size Pan vise Micro Mark Veneer Calipers for measuring wood thickness Micro Mark Planer or thickness sander There are several items I use regularly in my model building that constantly need replenishing.

So that you will be prepared when the time comes, here is a list of certain supplies you will find yourself using routinely: 1. Weldbond White Glue 2. Toothpicks for mixing epoxy Rubbing Alcohol for ungluing Weldbod if you make a mistake Single edge razor blades for making moldings Other items may be needed as we progress and I will try and give some advance notice of these items when they come up.

Before I begin with the actual instructions for building this model, I'd like to go over the process I use to mill wood for a model ship. Any serious model ship builder will have these tools in his workshop. Tools Needed: 10" table saw or 14" band saw with resaw blade Planer or thickness sander Byrnes miniature table saw with.

Most of the wood purchased from Gilmer Wood comes in small boards that are 2" to 4" wide and 1" to 2" thick. As an example, let's say that you need billets to make frames for this model. They must be 24" long and 1" wide.

The extra thickness is needed so that the finished billets will be smooth on both sides, without saw blade teeth marks. I use veneer calipers to measure my billets.

Then cut them to length, 24" in this example. For smaller pieces Model Ship Building College Pty Ltd Usa of wood needed to make various parts on the model, I first mill a billet that is the required thickness of the part I want to make. For example, the hatches on this model are. Then I would run the billet through a planer until the thickness had been reduced to.

From that billet, I can now use my miniature Byrnes table saw to rip strips that are. It's the same process you might use to cut large boards down to smaller boards to make a piece of furniture. The only difference is that you are working with much smaller dimensions so you need a much smaller saw to cut such pieces without tearing the wood up.

The Byrnes miniature table saw was designed for model ship builders precisely for this purpose. The various PDF files that you downloaded are used as templates to make the various parts of the model. Whenever I say to use a particular drawing as a template to make a particular part, you should print an extra copy of that drawing so that you still have the original for reference. Some part templates are cut out from a particular drawing.

For example, in this step, the keel template is cut out from the Side View drawing. Because a model ship often uses wood that must be milled to very small dimensions, all fractional measurements given in these instructions will be in thousandths of an inch. Wood needed for this step: 1 17" x. We'll begin construction of our model with the keel. Start with your keel piece that is 17" x. At the fore end, a scarf joint is cut.

The first photo in this step shows this scarf joint. Use the drawing s with the file name "Frame Plan 1. When I say to use a drawing as a template, I mean that you must cement the drawing to the wood using rubber cement. After cementing the template to your keel wood strip, cut the strip to the precise length using the template and your Byrnes miniature table saw.

You will notice that the aft end is cut at a slight angle. You can use your miniature table saw to cut this angle by setting the cross cut slide to match the angle in relationship with the blade. Making small parts for a model ship is no different than making large parts for a piece of furniture.

Other than the tool used, the process is the same. The scarf joint can be cut on your Byrnes saw also. I like to use a blade with a thickness of. Once the blade is set to the right height, set the cross slide to 90 degrees to make a cut across the top of the wood strip. You want to align the edge of the blade with the edge of the joint. After making the first cut, set the blade to a height of. With these two cuts made, you can complete the joint using your Xacto knife with the 10 or 22 blade.

Refer to the first photo in this step to see and understand the exact shape needed for the scarf joint. Before removing the keel template from the wood strip, you must also cut the sternpost joint at the aft end. This joint is. It is best to use your Xacto to cut this joint due to the angle of the joint. The Byrnes saw blade cannot be tilted so cutting the two sides of the joint can only be done with hand tools. After cutting the joint out, you can remove the paper template.

Be sure to rub all of the rubber cement off with your finger as well. The next step is to cut the rabbet joint in the keel. The rabbet joint was common on all wooden ships. It is a "V" shaped groove that runs the length of the keel and helps to make a water tight seal where the planking meets the keel. You can see a pencil line across the keel which will be the top of the rabbet joint.

This line is. The "V" groove will be cut from the top of the keel to this line. It is. This means that the center of the joint is. If you haven't already done so, remove the template since it is no longer needed. Make sure you rub off all of the rubber cement with your finger.

Then draw a line across your keel exactly. Now, using your Xacto with the 10 or 22 blade, cut from the line at an angle to a point in the center of the line and top of the keel. Short cuts from the line upwards and from the top of the keel downwards are used. The 2nd photo shows Model Ship Building Beginners Used the cutting of the rabbet joint using a hobby knife.

Take your time, and try to keep the "V" groove straight and consistent in shape and depth. You may want to practice first on some scrap wood.

The rabbet joint extends to the point where the aft side of frame 23 sits. Stop cutting the rabbet joint at that point. Of course, you will have to cut the joint on both sides of the keel. In the 3rd photo, folded sandpaper is used to clean up the rabbet joint and the 4th photo shows the completed rabbet joint.

In that photo, the rising wood has been added. This is the strip of wood that is 15" x. You want to cut this piece to length first so that it matches the Side View drawing. Notice that it stops at the fore side of the sternpost and is cut at an angle to match the angle of the stern post. The fore end starts at the scarf joint. Your keel should now look like the 4th and 5th photos in this step.

Now you will add the frame spacer pieces. You will need the piece of wood stock that is 15" x. Each piece is the cut to the exact same length,. Making a series of pieces the exact same length on the Byrnes saw is not as difficult as it may sound. First, take a piece of wood of any thickness and about 2" long.

Using an office clip, clamp it to the blade side of the fence. The tip of the wood piece should be positioned at about the middle of the blade Next, move the fence so that it is exactly.

Once you've set the fence, all you have to do is use your cross slide to make slices of the wood strip. Slide the wood strip up against the clamped scrap on the fence and make the cut.

Each piece will be exactly the same length. You will need 21 of these pieces. After cutting these spacers, lay your keel over the Frame Plan drawing and mark the location of each spacer, then glue each one on at the marks you made.

In the 6th photo, you can see how the rising wood relates to the rabbet joint and how the frames sit on top of it. To keep the frames spaced properly, these spacers lock each frame in position. The 7th photo in this step shows the keel after gluing these frame spacers to the top of the rising wood. The eighth photo shows how a frame is held snugly to the keel using these frame separation pieces. This completes the construction of the keel.

In the next step, you will make the stem and fore deadwood. You will remember from the previous step that there was a scarf joint at the fore end of the keel.

Now you will make the stem which has a corresponding joint where the two parts are joined. The fore deadwood sits on the keel and inside edge of the stem. The curved line that this joint forms is the forward stem portion of the rabbet joint. The 1st photo shows these two parts. Wood needed for this step: 1 6" x 3" x. The template for making the stem is the file "Stem and Stern Deadwood. First cut out the template using scissors.

Then rubber cement it to your wood. Use a scroll saw to cut the part out. There is a disadvantage to using a single part though. It makes cutting the rabbet joint much more difficult.

That is why I recommend cutting the two individual parts out rather than cutting one complete part of the two. Cut them out on the scroll saw. You want to test fit the scarf joint of the stem with the scarf joint of your keel. If you were careful in cutting the stem with its joint on the scroll saw, the fit should be pretty close. You can use your Xacto and 10 or 22 blade to make small adjustments.

The 2nd photo shows the stem mated to the keel using the scarf joint. You will notice that when the stem is mated to the keel. You want to continue the rabbet joint up the top edge of the stem, but the shape changes from a "V" to a "U" channel as shown in the 3rd photo. Again, use your Xacto to make this cut, and be sure to make it on both sides before you glue the stem to the keel. The last step is to glue the fore deadwood to the stem.

The aft end of the deadwood should connect to the rising wood. The 4th photo shows what the completed assembly looks like. You should lay your keel assembly over the Frame Plan drawing to be sure that it matches as closely as possible.

In the next step you will make and attach the sternpost and stern deadwood to the keel. The final assembly of the keel structure is to add the sternpost as shown in the 1st photo and the stern deadwood as shown in the other photos. Wood needed for this step: 1 5" x 3" x. The 1st photo shows that the keel is tapered at the stern.

This is simple to shape with your Xacto knife and 22 blade. By scraping the surface of the keel on both sides, you can reduce the thickness of the keel at the Model Ship Building Beginners Use sternpost. The tapering should begin where frame "23" is located. The sternpost is made from a single piece of wood that is.

The piece of wood must first be cut to length, and the lower joint must be cut out. This can be done with an Xacto. Use the Frame Plan drawing to ensure that the sternpost is set at the proper angle on the keel. You can rubber cement a template taken from the Frame Plan drawing to the wood so that the joint can be cut and the overall shape of the sternpost can be cut out. You will notice that the sternpost tapers from top to bottom.

It also tapers from side to side so that the lower end matches the width of the keel. After shaping the sternpost, glue it to the keel using Weldbond.

Lay the keel assembly over your Frame Plan drawing to make sure that the angle of the sternpost is correct. Leave the assembly alone until the glue has dried. While the glue is drying on your sternpost, cut out the stern deadwood on your scroll saw. Use a template taken from the Frame Plan drawing, and rubber cement it to the piece of wood. It's best to cut the angled lower end first on the Byrnes saw so that you have two straight edges.

Then the remainder can be cut on the scroll saw. The deadwood is attached to the keel and sternpost as seen in the 3rd photo. Use Weldbond to glue it. It should be aligned side to side on the keel so that it is centered on the keel. This extension of the rabbet joint is "L" shaped. You can see a faint pencil line on the keel in the 3rd photo where the rabbet joint needs to be extended.

This can be done with your Xacto knife. Next, you need to taper the stern deadwood in the corner where it meets the sternpost. If you look at the 3rd photo which shows a "before" shot of the stern deadwood, and look at the 5th photo, you will see how the deadwood has been shaped with a hobby knife so that the aft corner area is recessed.

This is necessary so that if planking were applied to the lower hull, it would be flush with the sternpost where the planks lay across the deadwood. You can make a template of the curved area that is tapered by tracing the bottom of frames 25 through 28 shown on the Frame Plan drawing.

The frames will attach to the side of the deadwood later on, so the deadwood must be flat and perpendicular to the keel in the area where the frames attach.

However, the area below the frames should be tapered so that the recessed lip formed by the deadwood is the same width from end to end.

This is all part of the rabbet joint where the planking would lie against the frames and deadwood. If you look at the 5th photo, you can see that the rabbet joint also extends upward across the deadwood where it is attached to the sternpost.

The shape goes from an "L" shape at the corner of the keel and sternpost, to a "U" shape as it extends upward across the deadwood to the top of the sternpost. The sternpost helps to form the rabbet joint just as the fore deadwood did at the bow. Keep in mind that the purpose of the rabbet joint is to enable the planking to form a water tight seal where it meets the keel, fore deadwood, and stern deadwood.

The last photo shows the keel fully assembled. A contrasting piece of wood has been glued to the bottom of the keel serving as the false keel. I like to use a contrasting wood for the false keel because it just gives the structure some class.

Cant frames are actually half frames. Instead of sitting on top of the keel as the full frames do, cant frames attach to the side of the fore deadwood at the bow and the side of the deadwood at the stern.

Wood needed for this step: 22 24" x 1" x. Making the cant frames is not much different than making the full frames.

You start with a frame blank that is two layers thick. These layers have two pieces each with staggered joints as shown in the 1st photo. After the parts are cut out, the layers are glued up separately. Then the 2 layers are glued together as shown in the 2nd photo.

And finally, the frame pattern is glued to the frame blank and cut out on the scroll saw. Of course you need a left side and a right side frame as shown in the 3rd and 4th photos.

Be sure to number each frame as many of them are similar in shape. The frames are finished in the same manner as before. You might wonder why I finish the frames now when they have to be sanded later to fair the hull out.

I put a finish on my frames before assembly for two reasons. First, it will be more difficult to apply the finish once the frames are in the building jig because there's only a small space between each frame.

Second, the finish helps in the fairing process by showing any areas that have not been completely sanded. After fairing the sanding and smoothing out of the hull surface , the finish on the surface of the frames is gone and must be reapplied. However, applying the finish to the hull surface is much easier than applying it between each frame. We're almost ready to start assembling our model.

But before we can do that, we need to construct the building jig. As I mentioned earlier, the jig is needed to hold the framework together and in proper alignment.

The jig style is commonly referred to as the "Hahn" style jig. Wood needed for this step: 1 24" x 12" x. Most hobby shops and craft stores sell this plywood made by Midwest. The ZIP file you downloaded includes a drawing of the jig. The center area must be cut out with a scroll saw. The notches in the center of the jig will hold the frames in alignment until the hull has been faired and planked.

The notches are cut in the thicker piece of plywood first. Use the drawing with the file name "Building Jig". There are 3 parts to this drawing that you will need to print out.

They each have an alignment black line for aligning one with the other. The 2nd piece, shown in the 1st photo, does not have any notches cut into it, but the center area is still cut and removed. This piece is glued to the underside of the thicker piece and serves as a shelf for the frames to sit on when they are glued into the jig.

Use the drawing with the file name "Building Jig Shelf" as a template to cut the center out. The pine or poplar wood strips are used to build a frame around the jig thus providing a good stiff edge that will help to make the jig rigid. By raising the surface of the jig up off of the work table surface, you won't have to worry about accidentally gluing the jig to the table surface when you start gluing the frames into the notches in the next step of these instructions.

You can use a regular table saw with a finishing blade to cut the plywood in half. The loss of a little bit of wood due to the kerf of the blade will be okay.

Just be sure to align the center line of the drawing with one edge of the wood when you cut the center area out on the scroll saw. The drawing is be rubber cemented to the plywood for cutting on the scroll saw. The drawing is not as wides as the plywood. Cut the drawing down the center line and align the center line with the edge of the plywood.

Align the forward end with the forward edge and the aft end with the aft edge. Then you can cut out the center notched area on the scroll saw. The reason I had you cut the plywood in half was to make it easier to cut the notches.

One edge of the plywood is used to align the center line of the jig pattern. After the notches are cut out according to the Jig drawing, the two pieces are butted together and glued.

Then cut the center area out on the scroll saw. Be sure to cut on the inside line, that is, the line inside the center line. The second, parallel line, is merely there for reference.

That area outlined by the two lines will form the shelf that the frames will sit on. By sandwiching the two layers of plywood together, you have the completed jig. You can see how I used small clamps to glue the two layers together as well as the jig base parts.

The outside edges of the shelf piece will have to be trimmed to fit inside the pine or poplar boards that form the base of the jig. There is one additional set of parts I make for my jigs that clamp the stem of the keel and the sternpost in position over the building jig. It's simple to make and the photos show how it's made and how it's used.

Theses clamps do not get glued however. By design, they are screwed to the jig base so that they can be removed easily later on. Once the keel has been clamped into the jig, it is being held in alignment on the center line by these clamping pieces. These clamping pieces are made from poplar. They are 6" x 6". A 1" tab at the bottom enables these pieces to be screwed to the base of the jig surface so that they can be removed later on.

You will need the drawings labeled "Keel Clamp Fore. Make two each. Pre drill the holes in the tab so that the wood does not split when you screw them to the jig surface. You will notice that the inside vertical edge is notched. When the two piece are put together, this notch is at the precise height to allow the stem at the fore end and the sternpost at the aft end sit on top of the tab.

These clamps hold the keel centered over the building jig so that when the frames are inserted into their respective notches in the jig, the notch in the center of the frame will fit into the notch in the keel.

This is all by design and will enable you to frame the model with assurance that the framework is perpendicular and square to the keel thus producing a very straight and fair model. In the next step, you will add the full frames to the building jig. Now you're ready to start framing your model. This will be a two step process. First all of the full frames will be installed in the jig and glued to the keel. The second step will be to add the cant frames at the bow and stern and finish the hull by fairing it out with sandpaper.

The sequence of photos shows the installation of the frames in the building jig. I like to start by installing the first and last full frames and then fill in the area between them.

The reason is that the first and last frame will then provide the support of the keel at both ends while the other frames are being added. The frames are glued into their corresponding jig notches using 5 minute epoxy. The epoxy is also used to glue the frames to the keel. Now you can see how the bottom of the frames meet the rabbet joint. Imagine how a plank laying across the frames will fit into this joint thus providing a good seal to keep water out.

Technically, if you planked the entire hull of this model, it would float in water without leaks, assuming your planks were also sealed with glue on their edges. I used mini-clamps to clamp the frames in the jig until the epoxy dries. Only mix enough epoxy to glue one or two frames into the jig at a time. It sets up fast so you have to work fast, but once you get the hang of it you will get into a rhythm.

Since there are only 23 full frames in this model, it can be fully framed easily in a couple of hours. Don't take those clamps off until the glue has set up though. In the next step, the cant frames will be added. Have fun! As I mentioned earlier, the cant frames are half frames, and they get glued directly to the sides of the fore deadwood at the bow and the deadwood at the stern.

They are epoxied into the jig and to the deadwood. Starting at the bow, the first photo shows 2 of the cant frames glued to the side of the deadwood. Notice that the frames sit on an angle. That means that the foot of the frame has to be beveled at the proper angle for the frame to sit properly in the jig. Fortunately I included this bevel line on the cant frame drawings. The bevel is trimmed from the line of the top surface, outward to the edge of the bottom surface.

I've included photos of the forward most cant frame that clearly shows what the bevel looks like as well as a few more photos showing the cant frames at the bow. Also,notice that each bow cant frame is butted up against the previous frame installed. You will need to use a 22 Xacto to cut the bevel. You should also scratch the surface of the deadwood with your Xacto to rough it up some and remove some of the finish on it before you epoxy the frame to the deadwood.

The bevel in the forward cant frames gets greater and greater until you reach frame 34 which has the bevel across the entire length of the frame. Any portion of the frame that extends into the rabbet joint should be trimmed after the epoxy has set so that the frames produce a smooth and continuous line across the top edge of the rabbet line.

The aft cant frames are different than the bow frames in that they do Model Ship Building For Beginners Victory not but up against each other. So a pattern is employed taken from the Frame Plan drawing to mark the location of each frame. The aft cant frames do not have as pronounced of a bevel cut into the foot of the frame either. The remaining sequence of photos should explain how these frames are glued.

Once all of the frames are installed, as shown in the last photo, the clamps at the bow and stern are removed by simply removing the screws.

This gives you easy access to the entire hull when faring it out. But before the hull can be faired, the stern transom must be framed. We'll cover the process in the next step of these instructions. Framing the stern transom might be the most difficult part of the model to build. The stern transom is the aft end of the ship. On ships of a later time period, the transom became more and more complex.

Wood needed for this step: 1 5" x. The 1st photo shows the framed transom. In the 2nd photo you see a piece of wood with some rectangles drawn on it. This is called the "wing transom", and every ship had one. Use the template with the file name "Wing Transom. The template can be rubber cemented to the piece of wood if you like. It's probably easiest to simply cut the piece to shape using your Xacto and a 22 blade. The rectangles are going to be cut into notches that the transom frames will sit in.

The transom frame shape is also on the same template file as the wing transom. You will need to make 6 of these frames so print out 6 copies of the template and rubber cement each one on the piece of transom frame wood. Cut them out on your scroll saw. The notches in the wing transom are cut using a hobby knife as shown in the next 3 photos. You can see the depth of these notches. By setting your calipers to this depth, you can mark a line across the aft edge of the wing transom, and cut the notches to the line.

The wing transom is installed so that it sits on top of the sternpost. It has a notch cut in the center on the bottom surface. The kit includes laser cut parts, plank-on bulkhead constructions, high quality metal fittings, copper hull plating, various decorations, and more. Caldercraft HM Yacht Chatham. Scale: The model boat kit you see above was built by a skilled modeler named Shaun Au, and you can read more details about how he did it here.

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Scale: Length: 24 inches, Height: 8 inches This ship was built in Bermuda in Its purpose was to be a cruiser for the West Indian trade companies. Scale: Length: Length Mantua San Felipe Also Great. When this historic ship went down in , it had several tons of gold aboard. Frequently Asked Questions. The following video does a great job of explaining wooden model ship planking:.

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