It is the great authority to operate as the outcome of it's done up of tens of millions of little prosaic lead (aluminium) plates which distortion upon tip of a single plywood skiff boat game additional tame H2O the really toilsome time to pass yet it.
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Thread starter El Mar Start date Oct 20, El Mar Admiral Lite User. Not "Downeast" I know but there are plenty of ply wood boats floating around our waters, alot used in the commercial fisheries. A little introduction about my self. Some of you know that I am a high school shop teacher, started a boat building class 15 years ago and it has morphed into some interesting projects.
Most of what we build is in the traditional "Brockway" style. A local builder from our area, I'm sure most of you have heard of him. I have probably built over 30 of these boats with my students over the years from 8 - 20 feet. The queen of the fleet is a 20' scow that we built and use for the local shellfish commission in our area. Check out some pics. No particular order.
Last edited: Oct 20, Bill Founder. I had a 16' skiff like those.. The plans for the skiffs are here. Is that Parker in the background yours?? Free Wooden Skiff Bryan..
Oh man, don't temp me. That is right in my back yard, perfect project for my class too. Problem is, I got too many boats and projects as it is. El Mar said:. Directory of Publications 35 35 40 41 The scow we just made up as we went along, no plans.
Unfortunately, I do not work at the sound school. I do know the director there, he is the guy who put those plans together. I work at a regular, comprehensive high school. Last edited: Nov 16, Eastporter Vice Admiral. El Mar- Great project to complete with your students! Hats off to you! Thanks for posting the photos. I like the boat with the more traditional bow and sheer, but the other must have practical uses such as pushing a mooring barge or something.
I bet the kids really love your class! The scow will hold more weight, and is more stable with a load. Back when i was fishing back east i drug for starfish every winter, i wore out a few boats doing it and the last one i had was this 20x8 plywood skiff, the guy that built it RIP Richie was a ironworker and he didn't scimp on fastners when he put it together, i fiberglassed the gunnel caps with 2 layups of mat and woven roving so it was a very stiff boat.
The dredge beat the shit out of it but it held up well. Should the fiberglassed bottom and Plywood Skiff Boat Kits 50 the sides have any type of paint put on it prior to the antifouling? For the sides what type of topside paint would hold up well to constant immersion around the waterline? Many manufacturers say the topside paint is not recommended for constant immersion.
If antifouling paint is applied overtop the topside paint is that ok? Or will the paint still eventually fail?
Re: Painting exterior of a Plywood Skiff Personally from what I can see, I would bring either your resin or epoxy up to the bottom of your first lap plank on the side. Add at least a couple coats. If you can, figure where the water level will be and make your bottom paint go a couple inches above that, put on a two inch boot stripe, and then on up with your topside paint. You'll want to go up that far inside the boat as well with either your resin or epoxy, as this will be where rain water will sit all summer, while waiting for you to pump it out, unless it's covered.
When it wears to your first coat color, you'll know it's time to add more. Re: Painting exterior of a Plywood Skiff Nice looking job. I'd use either coats of neat epoxy or coats of an epoxy primer like Interprotect under the bottom paint.
If sanded out, it's OK under your topside enamel, so it might be easier to do the entire first strake. Someone will be along shortly touting even more ambitious miracle primers. Topside enamel is likely to bubble if left immersed, even if covered with bottom paint.
Re: Painting exterior of a Plywood Skiff. Originally Posted by JimConlin. Join Date Dec Location on-the-cuyahoga Posts 13, Originally Posted by jahlinux. Re: Painting exterior of a Plywood Skiff Some people prefer an undercoat of straight epoxy. Some prefer to use only primer and paint. I regard the first as fine, but not worth the time and expense. I have no personal experience with the second If you choose the third - pick your topcoat paint, and your bottom paint - then use the primers and surface prep methods recommended by the manufacturer under each of them.
If you want to use only one primer under both - your supplier can help you specify such a system Herreshoff The Compleat Cruiser. I know it does not have the sex appeal of some exotic two part stuff, it just works is all. All of the other advise about coating the entire hull with unadulterated epoxy is good advised in my opinion, two or three coats on any endgrain and you have a lot of endgrain if you consider both edjes and butts of your laps.
Well worth the effort. Keep slathering it on til its stops soaking in, especially the end grain. Let it cure hard and sand off the fuzzies. In my experience it's a bombproof coating for ply. Lots of people have been using porch and deck paint for a while and most of 'em seem happy with it. As Oldad says it is made to be walked on. Never tried it but it makes sense. Re: Painting exterior of a Plywood Skiff The problem with a lot of these paints, especially latex, is they don't penetrate and are particularly hard, good attributes for going over concrete, but not for wood.
Plus the epoxies have a little give to them, where as paints fracture and let water in. And we all know it doesn't matter how good you do the exterior, if water gets into your wooden innards, the game can get over Originally Posted by Big Fish Billy. The problem with a lot of these paints, especially latex, is they don't penetrate and are particularly hard, good attributes for going over concrete, but not for wood. Re: Painting exterior of a Plywood Skiff We have had good success with the Petit epoxy barrier Free Jon Boat Plans Plywood Games coat product on plywood hulls.
Mix the two components together in the ratio of 3 parts of Component A to 1 part of Component B by volume. Allow to stand 15 minutes at approximately 70 degrees before using. Allow to stand at least 30 minutes if temperature is between 50 degrees and 65 degrees F. Primer may be applied by brush, roller, conventional or airless spray.
Thinning is not normally required for brush or roller application, however, small amounts of 97 Epoxy Thinner may be used if necessary to facilitate application. For spraying, use 97 Epoxy Thinner at levels of percent by volume to ensure a smooth finish with minimal orange peel. Wet film thickness should be 7. A wet film thickness gauge should be used to monitor paint application.
Total dry film thickness for a three coat application should be 12 mils minimum for maximum coating performance. If this has not been achieved with three coats, additional coats are recommended until 12 dry mils is reached. It flows out fairly well. Once set, we give the first coat a light sanding then give it a second coat. When the second coat is set well, we give it a good sanding to remove most brush strokes but do not burn through it.
Two more coats and then sand well before bottom paint or enamel. It gets pretty hard after days so we try to do our sanding during the 1st or 2nd day after we apply the fourth coat. Here's a shot of the gray used on the bottom of a 16' plywood skiff and then two coats of Trinidad SR hard bottom paint applied over the barrier coat.
As for topsides paint, I have had excellent success with both the Petit Easypoxy paints and the Interlux Brightside paints on plywood hulls prepped with the above epoxy barrier coat.
Both brush well or are also easily rolled and tipped. Not inexpensive but you have done a nice job on your boat, why cut corners on the finish? Regards, John. I've been quite pleasantly surprised at how well it's held up.
Re: Painting exterior of a Plywood Skiff I would not paint a wood boat with latex porch paint but plywood is stable so the hardness of the paint only works in your favor. Someday I am going to try the oil based porch paint, I bet it is even better. Re: Painting exterior of a Plywood Skiff I agree with the use of CPES, over estimate the water line by a couple of inches, any change can be adjusted when she is next hauled by a nicely painted Boot Top.
I commend John Boone for striking a proper water line. The trend, introduced by Bertram, of making the water line follow the chine is one of the most unappealing esthetic effects perpetrated on and by boaters. Norman Cove. My boat was designed by Tom Hill and in WoodenBoat he describes his approach to painting new boats. He doesn't believe in priming or epoxy saturation.
The difference for me is that I plan Plywood Skiff Boat Kits Model on leaving the boat in the water all summer, so most of the polyurethane based paints are not meant for constant immersion. The waterline is a problem. I really have no way of knowing where it is. I'm going to have to launch the boat to mark the waterline, then haul it back out to finish painting the hull.
I was hoping to at least paint the exterior of the hull so the wood is sealed then Plywood Skiff Plans Free Games launch it to determine the waterline. But, now that I know topside paints are no good below the waterline things are more complicated.
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