Best Boat Trailer Tire?? - Bass Fishing Forum - myboat354 boatplans Metal Flake Boat Paint. For the ultimate flashy touch, add metal glitter flake to your boat's finish. Great Lakes Skipper has great discount prices on metal glitter flake to use on your custom boat, car, truck, motorcycle, or other project�it's a popular choice for electric guitar finishes. Apr 16, �� Hope everyone is doing well! Michigan anglers, we're thinking about you! In this video I cover my restoration project on my 25 year old Gambler Bass Boat Tra. Model: Description: Capacity (lbs.) MMT S: ? Boat Single Axle w/Swing Tongue, LED Lights: MMT S: ? Boat Single Axle w/Swing Tongue, LED Lights.
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A integrate bass boat trailer paint difference years ago we wouldn't have dreamed of portrayal your vessel with acrylic paint. She rows good as well as moves right together with the tiny outboard, I'd essentially have a capability to do. A elementary electrical trwiler is compulsory for any vessel trailer. Woodworking Skeleton For Kids' Toys M y pretension is Daniel Holden as well as I have been constructing boats for the lot some-more than Twenty years.



Joined Apr 9, Messages 1, Re: Spray vs. Then go around with a spray can and touch up the hidden areas that you couldn't reach. Joined Aug 10, Messages 14, Joined Feb 22, Messages 1, Well we got to grinding the rust off it today and came to the realization that the best way to paint it was going to be a spray gun. I dont think spray cans would work as you would need 8 thousand of them.

Doing it with a brush and small roller Dad claims the foam brushes and rollers dont leave lines would work ok but there are alot of nooks and crannies that are a PITA to get at. Joined Feb 28, Messages 1, I had all the stuff to roll and brush it on, me and my dad thought that was the way to fly.

Joined Mar 11, Messages It has some rust spots where the keel pads didn't drain well. I used naval jelly to stop the rust, I deen to use more. Anyone know if the rust oleum will help stop the rust that might be left? Shizzy Ensign. Joined Aug 5, Messages I would roll it on as it would be thicker and less likely to chip. Joined Mar 26, Messages 23, Im going to be painting my trailer soon.

Joined Dec 30, Messages Utahboatnut Senior Chief Petty Officer. Joined Jan 15, Messages Yes there are some difficult places to get to but it is possible to do with very good results. I liked the fact that I could do it at home without having to take the boat off the Bass Boat Trailer Paint Line trailer. I used Bass Boat Trailer Hitch Size Difference rustoleum satin white and a 4" foam roller for the flat parts and a good china bristle for the corners etc. If it is prepped well and primed well Very good results can be had painting by hand if you take your Bass Boat Trailer Paint 500 time and know how to paint.

Plus you can work on it as you have the time. Once finished I applied some pinstripe same color as the boat and the trailer looked great.

Joined Oct 7, Messages Not if the frame is nearly rusted out, for sure. But if, after looking at it closely, the frame is still solid, then you have "good bones" from which to start. Just about everything else springs and axle, hubs, fenders, wheels and tires, bunk supports and bunks, wiring, rollers, winch, jack and coupler, and safety chains can be effectively replaced as my wife Laura and I discovered when we looked over our vintage trailer that carried an aluminum skiff.

If structural repairs or changes are required that you don't have the skill, confidence, or time to complete yourself, consult an expert. Be especially careful in your inspection if your trailer's seen saltwater in its lifetime or if you've used acidic hull cleaners. Trailers subjected to these elements typically have significant rust-through and the frame can be very weak. If in doubt, bring it to a trailer shop to have an expert give it the once-over.

It's worth the hassle and expense because it just might save you from a catastrophic failure while towing, or at the very least, save you from wasting money and time on a basket case. For this article, we refurbished a generic galvanized skiff trailer. The old winch was rusty, the frame was showing some minor signs of surface corrosion, the wooden bunks were rotting, and the lights didn't work consistently. Note: This job will differ with each trailer and its good and bad parts.

The size, weight, and type of boat will have a bearing on how easy � or difficult � it is to remove it from the trailer. In my case, the boat was small and lightweight so I was able to pick a good spot in our yard, tilt the boat nose-high, and secure the boat while I pulled the trailer out from under it.

On a previous occasion with a larger and heavier boat, I built a temporary cradle from treated pine to hold the boat while I rerigged the boat and rebuilt the trailer. With the trailer free of the boat, strip all components from it and make a list of what you'll replace. In addition to taking photos, take measurements of where things like the axle, winch, bunks, or rollers, and any spare tire may go.

For this project, I wanted to get the trailer back to just the frame and start from there. I removed the old rotten wooden bunks, the very rusty winch, the lights, and safety chains.

The added benefit was that with these components removed, the bare trailer frame was much lighter and easier to handle. I was able to singlehandedly flip the trailer to check the underside, something that would have been impossible with the wheels, springs, and axle in place.

Much of the galvanized coating was in good condition, and the main structural members, I was pleased to note, were all in sound condition.

A thorough wire brushing to remove surface rust and scale was pretty easy, though messy and time-consuming. I followed this with a good acetone wipe to clean the surface and prepare it for me to spray cold galvanize paint on all the exposed areas. Some components, especially around the bunk mounts and light brackets, were pretty corroded and required cutting off with an angle grinder. Reassembly of the trailer was straightforward and quick.

I measured for the new bunks using the old ones as templates. Then I cut them from treated pine 2-by-6 boards and covered them with new carpet, which I glued with contact cement and stapled with stainless steel staples on the underside. To reattach bunks and other components, I used Grade 5 galvanized steel bolts and washers and Nylock locking nuts to eliminate rusting and rattling loose. With the new bunks and winch in place, I wired the trailer with new LED lights and wiring kit, taking care to use grommets and other insulating material where the wiring insulation might chafe.

After reinstalling the fiberglass fenders with new stainless bolts, we were ready to winch the boat back onto its trailer. With a couple of helpers to ensure it goes steadily, the process is much easier than it sounds. Many lighting kits come with these squeeze Scotch-Lok type of wiring connectors that don't stand up to regular dunking. Use waterproof crimp connections instead:.

The old trailer was in a sorry state. One of the first jobs was removing the old trailer bunks:. The dirtiest part of the job was removing the old rust prior to refinishing:.

To protect the light wiring from chafe and keep everything neat, I used these clips, which require no drilling or alterations to the trailer:.

In addition to the bunks themselves I replaced the severely corroded support brackets:. I attached waterproof carpet to the bunks using contact cement and stainless steel staples:. Before hitting the road, double check all your work, make sure all bolts are tight, and bunks or rollers are Bass Boat Trailer Paint Machine well secured.

If there is any possible issue, have a professional shop check it.




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