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Since of this a vessel would be pushed divided from a wharf so which advancing upon my own would be the plea. Chris Stickney of C? 2 A build your own boat steel company of a daggerboard (excluding bevels) shall be not reduction than Fourteen mm (12mm for white yohr development) as well as reduction than Fifteen mm. Some get aloft during vessel constructors suggest skeleton a 2 upon paper as well as in further upon Build Your Own Boat Steel Ltd CD-ROM.

Complete assembly and engineering boat plans supplied. Delivery is included. For example, an 11m 36' yacht would comprise of around parts! Complete stability calculations are included in the design package. All calculations are also cross referenced against ABS requirements to ensure that the design meets world-wide standards and specifications.

Trawler Yacht 57 Aluminum or Steel shoal draft 24 knot trawler. This boat is also easy to build in fiberglass. The fiberglass version features cheap mold construction methods as pioneered by Bruce Roberts. Build Your Boat Build Your Own Boat Steel 100 Select Model. Fishing Boats. Boat Category. Center Console. Salt Water. Open Water. Multi Species. Boat Series. Deep-V Fishing. Mod-V Fishing. Bay Boats.

Retreat: Premium Style. Super Sport: Feature-Packed. Sport Fish: Rigged For Fishing. Ultra: Uncompromised Value. Build Now eBrochure. FM SC. FM WT. But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar.

And while there are standards-making organizations e. After all, we're talking relatively small boats here, and as we'll see, the sizes, types, and thicknesses of members readily available and suitable put some practical limits on what can be used to frame up and plate a metal boat in the first place. Consider plating thickness. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation.

Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.

Thus there is some latitude in the conversion process - we're not talking rocket science here. So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. That's basically all there is to it. In the above and referring to Fig. These members are common in steel boats rather than using formed or extruded members such as angles, channels, tee's, etc.

First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity. Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small.

However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger.

Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar. And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. And because marine aluminum requires no corrosion resistant coating and won't rust, the shaped members don't add to maintenance and inspection difficulties as in the steel boat.

Finally, shaped members, especially those of symmetrical section such as tee's and channels, are easier to work. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar.

The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want.

If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc. But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. For example, angles can be substituted for tee's and vice versa. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel.

You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice.

However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make. Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative.

To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the Build Your Own Boat Steel Pdf so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H With these choices, you should be able to find everything you'll need to build your own boat. However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified.

Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Many have substitution guides you can use to suit what's stocked. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt.

However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape. In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty.

The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel. In effect, such frames are "floating" within the hull, and are used to support and reduce the span of longitudinals which are the primary members stiffening the hull plating. About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight.

Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating. The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull. The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides.

As shown before, Fig. Backing members such Build Your Own Boat Steel Limited as in 'C' and 'D' help tie frame members together when setting up and help define the chine line to assure a smooth, fair curve. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional.

If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. The example in 'E' includes a built-in spray deflector, and can be bent along its length as required to conform to an ever-changing angle between the side and bottom that commonly occurs. Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. Whether such welding is done both sides depends on plating thickness and a builder's desires.

From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best.

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