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The most obvious loadings are the downward ones, such as supporting the weight of diy boat deck replacement difference walking on deck and the weight of cabins and such like. The deck structure will also be subject to stresses imposed between the healing motion and the righting motion caused by the ballast keel. It also has to cope with the stresses imposed by differende, mooring cleats and any other deck hardware.

Beams need not only to be strong but built of rot-resistant wood as they will be difficult to replace when planked. And just as importantly, all the beams joints need to be of sufficient differejce and integrity to transfer the loadings throughout the hull. Sawn beams must either be diy boat deck replacement difference from timber which has the grain following diy boat deck replacement difference curve or bat sufficiently wide to avoid splitting.

Laminating deck beams is a much more cost effective use of boat building timber veck they can be just as strong. Allowance should be made for the tendency of laminated beams to collapse slightly when taken off the gluing jig. Affiliate links. Carlines are the fore and aft beams that support the sides of cabins hatches and cockpits.

Carlines are supported by main beams but in their turn they diffegence only support the hatch or cabin but also the inside ends of the half beams. Before fitting carlines consider how the Cabin Trunk is to be constructed. The Mast Partners provide a reinforced frame diy boat deck replacement difference spread the horizontal loads of a keel stepped mast. To spread these loads across the deck and deplacement to the hull, the partners should be placed between to diy boat deck replacement difference diffdrence Diy Boat Deck Replacement Us main beams.

It is also advisable to reinforce these with lodging knees, although plywood covered decking will help dit spreading the loads. It is not advisable for keel stepped masts to emerge through the cabin top as it is unlikely to be able support these transverse loads.

Tie-Rods or through bolts are needed to prevent the two deck beams from parting and to hold the partners. Any hardware such as halyard blocks, pinrails and the like should be through bolted through the deck and partners. Partners for un-stayed masts need to be stronger than those for gaff rigged which, in turn need to be stronger the those for stayed Marconi rigged masts.

Hanging knees act as vertical supports for replacemnet while lodging knees are used to join and strengthen horizontal sections. Knees can be added to joints that are highly stressed such as main deck beam to hull joints and to diy boat deck replacement difference partners.

Hanging knees can also be used as an alternative to or in addition to sheer clamps or beam shelf joints. A hanging knee cut with a sweeping ogee curve has the added advantage of being a decorative architectural feature.

In order to try to avoid confusion I shall refer to the beam shelf as being the horizontal piece the deck beam rests on, the clamp as the strake running along the top inside diffrence of the planking. The most common method for connecting deck beams to the hull is via a digference of sheer clamp and beam shelf.

All joints between beams carlines and hull sides must be carefully fitted to allow for the sweep of the deck. Tapered joints also add strength due the wedging effect as pressure is applied downwards, however they will also have to be fastened. Sheet plywood securely fastened to the deck beams will help to spread the loads in all horizontal directions, while laid planks on their own will only spread them in the fore and aft direction.

Resurrection of Henry. Even after years at the helm, � Very Interesting This was really informative and diy boat deck replacement difference a number of issues that I have had question about so was a really great feck. Now I come to my point I have �. Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems.

A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly. Ring Nails sometimes call Gripfast or ring shank, silicon boag boat nails are renowned for their holding power. Wood Screws are the most widely used and versatile fasteners used on wooden boats.

Which type to use and how to use differfnce. A brief description of the most common Timber used for building Wooden Boats how to choose wood for your project boat. A brief guide to timber properties and wood, characteristics such as strength, stiffness and elasticity for choosing lumber for wooden boat building and restoration.

Air conditioning. Water maker. New kitchen Bow thruster. Hi my name is Sarah. My dad Robert Diy boat deck replacement difference loved boats and sailing on the Norfolk broads and at sea, he spent many months blood sweat and tears restoring. Privacy Policy. Advertising Policy. Cookie Policy. I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk. However, I need to point out that I replacemennt an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts.

DIY Wood Boat. Deck Beams. Mast Partners. Have Your dedk. Ordinary or auxiliary beams are those which do not support a hatch or bkat opening. King, strong or main beams are those which support hatches, cabins Diy Boat Deck Replacement Stand masts and the like. Half beams are those which join hatch or cabin carlines. However, as the curvature of the beams will vary, individual jigs my have to be. Very Interesting This was really informative and clarified a number of issues that I have had question about so was a really great read.

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Worm shoe Sacrificial Protection for Wooden Boats A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly.

Ring Nails diy boat deck replacement difference Marine Fastening. How to use Copper Rivets and Roves construction guide to fasteners on your wooden boat.

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The edge of the coachroof was molded to accept the edge of the teak plank, and scupper drains through the fiberglass cockpit coamings and toerail would be above the deck after the teak was removed. Converting to a painted deck would require extensive fairing along with several layers of gelcoat and a new nonskid applied. Twice in the past, we had added nonskid coatings to an existing deck.

One deck was rolled with a layer of tacky resin that was then painted; the other involved applying a course aggregate to the paint before spray-painting. There are effective paint-on nonskid options, but neither of the products or methods we used produced what I felt was a great offshore nonskid, and both were hard to clean. See the February and June issues at www. Although oily teak defies many kinds of glue, advanced adhesives for this task have been around long enough to establish a good track record.

Bonding the teak to the deck means no more worrisome screws and their holes into the deck core. Teak was expensive, but we could handle a lot of the work ourselves, and the total cost was potentially lower than painting, if we could provide much of the labor.

The decision was made, and we arranged for a berth alongside the quay in a marina with a reputable marine carpentry shop. They recommended doing the work afloat to avoid the risk of falling and to avoid the heavy labor of hauling lengths of teak, tools, and weights up a foot ladder. It was good advice. Removing the deck hardware took eight days with two people working 12 hour days. The stanchions and pulpits alone had over bolts through the deck.

The list went on and on, including cleats, anchor rollers, windlass, and more, but it was something we could handle.

Although labor intensive, it was a good cost-cutter for us. Removing the old deck was a long and arduous job with a chisel and hammer. We left the screws in place and drove a chisel along under a plank, breaking it off each time a screw was encountered. Unfortunately, the fiberglass laminate under the deck was occasionally nicked by the chisel.

After the teak and all associated rubble were bagged and carted away, the screws were removed with a screwdriver where possible and vise grips where not. We broke a few screws and left them in the deck to be sealed with epoxy during the next phase. A surface grinder cleaned the old caulk off before we filled the old screw holes with epoxy and applied a thin coat of epoxy to the entire deck to repair the chisel scrapes and seal the laminate.

We felt we could handle everything except preparing and bonding the new teak, so we sought the assistance of the carpenter to help with this task. Teak decks are traditionally laid with an outer panel or frame inside the toe-rail and an inner frame around the coachroof and cockpit coamings.

The outer frame may be omitted if the curvature of the rail is mild enough to allow a standard width plank to be sprung into place along the toerail, but an inner frame is almost always required to accept the end of individual planks where the curvature is more pronounced.

A king plank is commonly used to join the end of the planks on the bow and at the stern. The wood shop cut and milled the teak planks to half-inch thickness and three different widths to accommodate the frames, planks, and king plank. The planks were relieved along both edges to about half their thickness to provide a caulking groove, and we were ready to begin.

There is more than one way to spring planks into place for bonding, but a common trick is drill a small hole near the edge of the plank that holds a piece of scrap wood. Then a wedge is driven between it and the plank to spring it into place alongside its neighbor.

Heavy weights are applied to hold it while the adhesive cures. The drilled holes should all be repaired with epoxy before installing the next plank, but some installers rely on the adhesive under the next plank to fill them and this may be equally satisfactory. Caulking, while messy, was straight forward. It pays to remove, seal, or cover just about everything for this phase.

The caulk dust seems to find its way into every possible opening. It took a month to re-install the deck hardware. All the holes had disappeared under the new teak, and initially we relied heavily on our plan to re-drill them from below. This worked fairly well for the larger holes we made with hole saws and a drum sander.

That changed when it came to drilling the bolt holes perpendicular to the deck and parallel to each other while standing on our heads in a locker. With backing plates on one side and hardware on the other, the holes had to be true.

Fortunately, we had taken the time to measure and mark the location of most holes, using the toerail or coachroof as our reference. In the end, drilling from the top down, where one could more accurately see the angle of the drill, proved to be the best choice, but it would have been difficult without the carefully measured and marked locations.

I estimated the job would take two months, but it actually took us three months and a day to complete, working long hours every day in a climate where it never rained, but the summer heat was intense. We reused almost all the hardware fasteners. Careful bagging and labeling makes this a lot easier, although a few bent screws must inevitably be replaced, arbitrarily replacing all the fasteners would add significantly to the expense of the project.

A large number of heavy weights will be needed. When planks are sprung into place, there is tendency for an edge to lift that can only be overcome with lots of downward pressure. Pieces of railroad track worked well for us but avoid using sand bags or similar approaches. Ends of planks can be readily cut and shaped with a fine-toothed blade in a saber saw and drum sander. If available, a carefully handled pistol grip or D-handle router works well for trimming up, but if in doubt, stick to the drum sander and a sanding block.

I made good use of a Dremel tool with a smaller drum sander for shaping smaller openings cut into the new deck for fuel and water fills and the like. Reading up on patterns and layouts for traditional teak decks will help you understand the process of adding a new set of cutouts to the king plank as pairs of planks are laid up to the bow or stern.

Actually bonding the king plank is done last, after everything else is in place. Photograph every inch of the deck before you start. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Practical Sailor. Life Jackets for Active, Racing Sailors. Folding Oru Opens Horizons. The Ultimate Deck Makeover. Installation Over time, wood decks inevitably show signs of aging such as warping, cracking and nail pops.

Step 1. Check joists spacing and overall condition of framing to determine if the substructure is sound. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. Step 5. You may need to shim or shave the joists to make them level and even.

Step 6. Install Trex decking, following instructions for spacing from the Trex Installation Guide. Step 7. Step 9. Assemble Trex railing and balusters per the Trex Installation Guide.

Step Secure your choice of Trex railing decorative elements, such as post caps and top rail caps. Summary With the makeover complete, the Trex decking and railing looks great and is ready for years of low-maintenance enjoyment. All Ready to go? Find a Deck Builder.

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