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Build your own Fyne Boat Kit at home

Discussion in ' Wooden Boat Building and Restoration ' started by cameron. Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Net. My little wooden boat project Hello, I'm new around here - having just bumped into the forum this evening - but want to share. I have a little project going that might be appreciated around here - or, quite possibly, picked to pieces!. Not that that would be a bad thing, necessarily.

The story so far: starting out from complete scratch, I've started building myself a very small wooden boat. Really, there is nothing in my little wooden boat take that kit to indicate I'm capable of doing such a thing, but, being a little bull-headed when it comes to looking things up like a responsible person would, I've just plowed ahead at pretty much full steam.

So far it seems to be going acceptably well But I guess I won't really know until I drop the thing in the water! Below I've included some pictures of my progress, as well as my 'plans', which are really just a quick sketch. I've actually got the entire haul planked over the frame such as it is and am now ready to do some finishing. Then I can add seats and the other important bits little wooden boat take that kit to.

I plan to make matching oars for the boat, and possibly add an electric trawling motor, which should propel it at a good clip. I'll probably use some white ash as well, as I can get it locally in long lengths and for a good price. Everything is glued, while the structural joints are also screwed with brass fasteners. Anyway, I guess I've written a good bit, so I must be eager to share. But I'll can it now as we all know why you're here: for the pictures!

Thanks for taking the time to browse. Cameron, Welcome to the forum. I have just got back on recently. Looks as if you have a nice boat. Hope she meets all your expectations. Take care. My question is If so With that reverse transom You might need to build a motor mount that is vertical or raked aft to get decent performance from the motor. If that blue line does represent the immersed volume it would be in the to pound range which is so over loaded it'll swamp in anything other then a still swimming pool.

PARMar 20, Hey guys, thanks for the replies. I guess I kind of forgot about that waterline indication which is what it is. I'd done a very rough calculation ignoring both the rake of the sides and the curve of the bottom to determine the displacement. I think I came up with about lbs so, you're pretty much right on the money there PARR - especially when you consider I ignored the fact the boat gets wider near the top.

Little wooden boat take that kit was pretty satisfied with the projected displacement - but ultimately have no experience. I certainly don't plan little wooden boat take that kit operating the boat loaded with lb. I'm a pretty heavy guy at around lb, but even with another passenger and a bit of lunch plus the boat, little wooden boat take that kit is pretty light it should be OK in calm water.

I'll probably use it mostly in the canals and rivers near here Ottawa, ON Canada. Who knows, maybe I did the math wrong. About the transom; I have actually built the boat without the reverse rake. I decided to keep my first build super simple.

Plus - if I do put a trawling motor on it, it'll be much simpler. Sorry for all the confusion about the sketch. It is also misleading in that the actual boat is closer to 9 feet long, as that let me build without having to scarf any of the planks.

Thanks again, and I promise to put up some more photos as I finish it off. What would make you think that a boat less than 10 feet, built of light wood, would weigh in over lbs?

I am not being critical, just curious. LandlubberMar 20, Oh, sorry if I wasn't clear. I don't expect the boat to weigh lb never didand wouldn't have built it if I. So far it is pretty light, as I can still move it and hold it over my head by. Once I add the ash gunnels and seats, doing so might be more of a chore. At pounds of displacement you, the boat and BoBo the wonder dog your boat will be about 4" deep at midship, with the bow and transom slightly immersed.

Of course this is based on the general scale and rocker show in your sketch. If you plan on rowing this puppy, build as light as you can and trim the boat with the transom clear of the water. PARMar 21, Thanks for the tip PAR. I'll keep in mind little wooden boat take that kit I should trim so as to have the transom just out of the water.

Does this advise remain the same when using an electric trawling motor, or is it specific to rowing? There is only one problem: you're getting me all excited to try it out, and it isn't ready yet! Heck, the water I want to lunch the boat is still frozen solid. Your trolling motor will only push the boat to about 4 knots which is within it's displacement speed envelop, meaning little wooden boat take that kit, the transom should just clear or be slightly kissing the water underway.

Basically it real depends on where her displacement is centered. Again going by the rough drawing, it appears it's little wooden boat take that kit little forward of an ideal location and the forward section appear "fuller" then desired for good rowing and low power applications.

You will not really have an idea of how things will work until you splash her and preform some trials under power and oar. The boat is now outside has been for a week or two - hasn't turned into a mass of splinters due to humidity, either and I've started all the messy stuff. Rough sanding of the bottom is now done, and I've started the inside. In the coming weeks I'll be adding trim, gunnels.

All this will take a while, but I've started to think more seriously about how to finish the boat as. Currently I'm of a split mind. My inclination is to just polyurethane the bejeezus out of the thing and then go rowing. But I know I'll be fighting runs on the curved surface of little wooden boat take that kit hull. It has also been suggested to me that I use spar varnish, as it will go on a lot thinner, won't run so bad and setup quicker.

What are your opinions? Keep in mind that it'll be 'dry sailed' only in the water a few hours at a time and that I want to keep as much water as possible away from my adhesives. Can the two approaches above be combined? Could I do a few thick coats of ploy, and then layer the spar varnish on top of that? If that were possible, would there by any advantage? Also: I plan to make my own oars. As a general rule, does such a plan fall under the good, the bad or the ugly?

Anyway, thanks for looking and taking the time to read. I appreciate that knowledgeable people are willing to share their experiences. Polyurethane, by your description, that which is used to cover floors, and which is clear rather than being a paint, is not thicker than varnish.

Assuming you want to get a clear finish, the varnish has a UV protective additive that won't be found in the polyurethane. You could lay down some plyurethane and protect little wooden boat take that kit with varnish but why go to asll that trouble when varnish alone will do the job? Then you'll have more protection from the sun, which quickly turns polyurethane to a yellow hazy powder. If you start with spar varnish, as it is properly calledyou'll have to do at least 6 coats and probably 8.

I'd paint the boat instead. A novice will have enough on his hands just building that first boat. Almost no one varnishes a hull, let alone the interior. It's your boat, however, so varnish away if you must, but be aware you're making a purse from a sow's ear, which is fine, but you may want to know the truth, and save a few dozen hours of hard labor.

Polyurethanes cure much faster then traditional varnishes. Spar Varnish is regular varnish, but with more UV inhibitors, which makes it appear with a more amber glow on wood. Polyurethanes are generally superior to regular varnish in moisture protection by a few percentbut are harder to repair or touch up when the time comes.

The word varnish is now commonly used for any type of clear little wooden boat take that kit on wood. You will see cans that say things like "acrylic spar varnish" or "polyurethane spar varnish", which if you knew how each was made, makes them clearly incorrect descriptions of the can's contents, but marketing is marketing.

Most polys can be used straight from the can with good results. Regular varnish is a different animal and application is more of an art form, subject to lots of debate, technique and methods.

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