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This was usually teak. The purpose of the decking was to give sure footing to the areas most travelled by the crew.
The Z was no exception in that the bridge decking was teak. I masked off the surrounding areas with tape making sure the areas I wanted to paint teak remained unmasked and then airbrushed White Ensign Models deck teak color.
After letting this dry for several hours I sprayed the painted area with Testor's acrylic flat coat. After the acrylic flat coat has dried for several hours the next step is to use a mixture of turpentine, and black and raw sienna oil paints. The liquid should take on a chocolate color.
Apply this to the teak deck. Applying this mixture gives variation to the teak color and brings out the planking detail. Photo etch is usually a product you buy in addition to the model to detail it even further. It is not necessary to add photo etch to your ship model. If you are a beginner at ship modeling it would be best to wait until you have a few kits built and your skills sharpened before tackling photo etch.
Photo etch is usually for modeling the deck railings which in most cases is not represented in the basic model. Some parts of the base kit are molded heavily such as radars. Photo etch, because of its delicate nature, represents these parts well. The Z came with basic set of photo etch. Gator glue and super glue, the non-gel type, are musts when working with photo etch. Gator Glue is a white glue which is easy to work with and dries clear.
Use an exacto knife with a new blade to cut the photo etch parts off their surrounding metal. I use a flat rock base to place the part on and then use the blade to cut if off. The photo above shows the two pieces that made up the photo etch radar for the Z It is made up of the screen and the frame for the screen.
These have to be glued together and then glued on to the mast support on the bridge. The length of brass rod you see on the stone is what is used for an applicator.
It gives me control over the super glue and allows me to place small amounts of the glue on tiny parts. Photo etch can provide a lot of delicate detail that plastic molding cannot.
Just a few pieces can improve your model a great deal. Safety railings that run along the edge of the deck and superstructure are almost never supplied with a model kit. When they are supplied in plastic they are usually out of scale and poorly done. Start by painting the railing the color of your ship.
Measure the length of railing you will need. I find it is easier to work with shorter lengths of railing than longer. Try to find a breaking point along the deck which is a logical place to end your length of railing. The length of railing I'm gluing on determines the type of glue I use to do it. If it is a long length I use Gator Glue and for shorter lengths I use super glue. I apply a pool of the glue I'm using onto an index card and dip the bottom stanchions into the glue and then attach them to the model.
Depending on your previous experience this may take one attempt or several. Don't try to re-use a bent up piece of railing. The mast on the Z has a searchlight platform which has a rounded railing. I have tried a number of ways to do rounded railing cheaply including wrapping the railings around lengths of Evergreen styrene tube but finally ended up buying the Mission Models Multi Tool.
X-acto knife or single-edge razor blades A cutting mat is good A small plane that accepts razor blades is handy to taper strips for planking. Don't get one that takes special blades, you should be able to use off-the-shelf generic blades. A building board - generally it needs to be flat and without twist. Traditionally a material is used that you can push pins into the board.
That's the old-school way of holding the bulkheads, keelson and transom in place while you plank it. The stuff bulletin boards are made from seems to work well. When you build you lay a piece of paper down with the stations marked. Stations is the term used to denote location of the bulkhead along the length of the hull.
On top of this paper I generally lay Saran wrap. It helps protect the paper and building board from grue. Parchment paper is old-school, but it's so hard to see through. As to your final question.
The hull is normally built upside-down and the bulkheads pinned to the building board. Very few boat hulls have a flat shear the edge where the hull meets the deck , so there are two ways that I've seen: Extend the bulkheads to a predetermined, arbitrary reference line outside "above" the hull proper that you marked on your "master" section copy.
If the bulkheads were cut with the grain in a vertical direction, it's a good idea to score the balsa where the bulkheads will be trimmed after planking. With this method you'll waste some material, but it should be minimal. Cut each bulkhead in half at an arbitrary "waterline". A Waterline as its proper term, is any plane parallel to the Design Waterline which is exactly what you think of as the waterline. For this method or construction, the plane you pick is best chosen relatively close to the deck.
The lower part of the hull is built on the board as outlined earlier. Once planked it is detached from the building board and the upper part of the bulkheads are glued on, and the rest of the hull is planked. That should be enough to get you started. Feel free to use the "comment" feature for follow-up questions. For new, unrelated questions - just start a new one.
Click here to add your own comments. Copyright Building-Model-Boats. Trademarks belong to their respective owners. Scale Model Ships by Vic Smeed is a good backup to. Cabinet grade Baltic Birch Ply should be fine. Obviously there are a lot more options if you can process your own wood. Linden or Basswood is an old classic. It doesn't have a lot of strength or stiffness, but is easy to work with. I'm sure Poplar could be used as well. It is similar to Basswood - not very strong or stiff. Mahogany of course is the old classic, but is getting scarce and expensive.
Normally I wouldn't recommend softwoods for planking because they don't bend well. However, a WW1 battle cruiser hull doesn't have a lot of curvature to it. If using solid blocks in strategic places I think Cedar, Pine or Spruce could be used. HTH Petter. It will be almost 7 ft in length and about 12 inches in the beam. Quite heavy, I project. My previous post was not about how to cut the bulkheads and plank the hull. I need suggestions on what thickness of plywood should be used on the keel that will run most of the length maybe 5 or 6 feet long at the bottom and what thickness of planking should be used for the plank-on-bulkhead construction.
Does that sound right? I built the Normandie back in the 's mainly with balsa, and it turned out nicely. Bulkheads and planking were thinner. But this monster that I want to build will need to be stiffer. He cannot provide the fiberglass hull as his mold became defective. But he will provide all the rest of the kit to complete the model. I'm scratch-building the hull. When finished, the hull will be almost 7 feet long and almost 12" in the beam. This will be a static museum-quality display model.
Thanks and best regards. I hope I'm not too late. I have no idea how old this thread it, but I wanted to make Model Ship Building - Complete Beginners Guide Jar a few suggestions. First: there is no easy way to make a model ship. I would recommend one or two kits to get some background. You can make many excellent and satisfying models from kits. Then, if you wish, take the leap to scratch building.
To do so you will need to purchase the tools to do the job. Second: Research, research, research. Get plans.
And study them until you are certain what each little line means and why it is there. Make drawings. If you've never built a model ship before, don't worry.
There are plenty of model kits that have all the pieces you'll need to build your own model ship. Most kits require some basic tools to assemble, like a wood plane or sander and small pliers, so make sure to check the requirements before you start building. Once the frame is done, stain, paint, or seal your boat to give it a more finished look. Then, add details, like sails, masts, wheels, and rigging. When you're done with your project, buy a model boat display at a hobby store to proudly show all of your hard work.
To learn how to sand your model boat, keep reading! Did this summary help you? Yes No. We've been helping billions of people around the world continue to learn, adapt, grow, and thrive for over a decade. Every dollar contributed enables us to keep providing high-quality how-to help to people like you. Please consider supporting our work with a contribution to wikiHow. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers.
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We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of Look for a model to purchase. There are many different models, styles and types of model boat kits available for purchase. If you are new to model boat building, you should spend some time finding a model ship kit that interests you.
Purchasing a kit is one of the easiest ways for beginners to get into the hobby. Have fun and find a model that you want to build to get started. Many on-line hobby shops can send a model boat kit to your home. There are many different model boat kit styles that you can buy. Many of these will have a differing levels of difficulty and challenge.
If this is your first time building a model boat, try to select a simple model for beginners. Do some research on the type of boat you are building to help you get an idea of what it will look like when finished.
Buy the necessary tools. Most model boat kits will require you to purchase some basic tools. These tools will help you to assemble the model and will make sure it goes together correctly. Check the model's tool requirements and purchase any additional tools that may be necessary. Small pliers can help when assembling the model. You may find a complete ship model tool kit that will provide everything you need to get started. Follow the model boat kit's instructions and assemble your model.
Although many model boats will require you to take similar steps when assembling the model, your kit will come with its own specific instructions.
Always follow the instructions for your model boat exactly to help ensure your model is built correctly and looks great when finished. Each model boat will have its own instructions.
Always consult your instruction manual every step. Part 2 of Open the box and lay out your parts. Once you have your model boat kit, you'll want to open it up and examine its contents. You should have all the parts and instructions necessary to assemble your boat. However, you'll want to make sure you actually have everything. Laying the pieces out can be a good way to notice if anything is missing or damaged. Make sure none of the parts are damaged. Find your instructions manual and review it.
You may need additional tools or materials. Check your instructions to see if you need to buy anything else before getting started. Build the frame. Once you've confirmed that you have all the materials and tools you will need to construct your boat, you can get started buy building the frame. The frame of the boat will allow you to add planks, forming the actual body of the model boat.
Remember to always consult your model's instructions to properly construct your model boat. Review these tips to help give you an understanding of what you can expect when building your model boat's frame: [5] X Research source [6] X Research source Slide the bulkhead frames into the keel.
The keel will be the long piece of the frame, running the length of the boat. The bulkheads will slide into slots found on the keel.
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