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I used to use planking clamps but stopped using them because I found sooner or later I run out of place to attach the clamps on the fames. Now Model Ship Building Plank Clamps 93 I soak and bend the wood then hold it in place with pin on pre-drilled hole on the frames. I have two types of pins, one slightly thicker than the other. For the thicker pin, Model Ship Building Plank Clamps 2021 I pre-drill a 0. It held its place wel. After the glue dried I remove the pins. Before sanding the hull, I coated it with white glue to fill up the holes left.
I don't find any problem with this procedure. Personally, I don't use the Micromark screws to force the planks at all. I do a lot of soaking and pinning, and on my last build, spiling, to get the planks in a pre-formed positioned so that they don't have to be forced. I do think it's important to clamp the planks in position while they are glued to get a tight fit though, and this is where I think the Micromark screws as well as other screws, pins, etc.
If clamps must be used the clamp designs shown in the Ed Tosti's Naiad books and build logs are the best I have seen to date. For actual light holding of prebent strips while glue set - still resort to elastic bands with packing and scrap pieces pinned. You can see some pinned scraps ready in the front. I find the pushpins are a trifle heavy for most places and I always drill a pilot. You can use the pinned scrap on final layer but then the pin goes in just off the strip and I always pack the end of the scrap off the strip with a piece of scrap to make the "nip" level.
In the end, whatever works for each person is the best way to go, but based on experience of quite a few builders at MSW, if the planks are tapered and spiled or pre-formed using the method Chuck Passaro has described, there really is no need for any clamps or rubber bands.
Carpenters' glue and finger pressure for about seconds is really all that is needed. Any kind of clamp presents the danger of denting the planks, even if using a piece of scrap between the clamp and the plank.
Just one more opinion based on trial and error over the years. Beg to differ slightly -carpenters glue if you mean PVA needs more than tens of seconds to grab securely but indeed not too long. And i think we agree planks should be preshaped and that any kind of "clamping" to actually form the plank as its fixed is unwise. I have found that properly shaped planks hold fine within 30 seconds most of the time, and always within a minute using the "yellow" version of PVA.
It all comes down to making sure the planks are pre-bent and have no spring in them. Well, we did not get a full meter of snow like Binghamton, NY got in the past day or so, but it will be in the 40's Fahrenheit the next couple nights. Actually, most of my modeling years were in New Jersey and it was the same there, albeit with the furnace going in winter. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste Model Ship Building Plank Clamps 933 as plain text instead.
Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build.
The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment. Planking Clamp Use. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Worldway Posted January 14, Posted January 14, edited. Does anyone use these? If so, I'm curious if their worth the price.
I probably should have asked this question before I purchased two packs. And I'm wondering if you have to predrill or you can just go ahead and screw into the bulwark. Edited January 14, by Worldway.
Link to post Share on other sites. Posted January 14, Can you tell if the metal ones look like they are made of a more sturdy metal? Thanasis Posted January 14, Hi Derek.
I also suggest you purchase these Japanese brass clamps. They are great for holding planks together. Thanks Brian. That's a good tip. Do you have a link for the clamps? Hobby tools Australia sell them. Joined Feb 28, Messages Points View attachment Uwek Administrator Staff member.
Joined Dec 25, Messages 16, Points Very nice. Thank you for the photo. Joined Jul 2, Messages 2, Points I recently saw a method of modifying wood spring closing clothes pins by reversing the inside to outside putting the spring inside so that the former outside end forms a tight clip. I tried it without succes as everything wanted to jump out of position. OK I thought instead of reversing the spring location. Fairly fast and it coses as tightly as the spring compression works and my sanding is true.
Here are three views: basic clothes pin, upper is the suggested modifiction, and lower right is my simple sand it down method which works better for me and I can produce batches quickly. Joined Oct 19, Messages Points Joined Dec 3, Messages 2, Points Tilt positions: 0 v 90 degrees. Overall height above the work surface: mm. Weight: 1. Ideal for holding and positioning raw material for rough cuts or parts finishing work.
Jaw Width: 75 mm. Jaw Capacity without rubber jaws : 55 mm. Jaw Capacity with rubber jaws : 50 mm. Double horn anvil for precision work - Model Ship Building Plank Clamps Qqq Hardened drop-forged steel - Weight grams. Modeler's anvil perfect tool for working on photoetched details and metals.
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