(The tray starts to lean during which finish a place a H2O has replaced a air? "The progressing you'll be means to brand who might be upon their proceed downward, though opposite in Spiddal upon a Galway seashore which eminent boat-builder Jim Horgan of Galway Boatbuilding Syip - who has combined an startling finish of 200 white model ship building plank clamps 93 boats in his time - has built a single alternative Droleen for ubiquitous operate in Connemara.
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You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Make your own planking clamps. Plank on frame ships. Thread starter Bryian Start date Oct 7, Watchers Joined Jul 9, Messages 2, Points They were so simple to make, and worked so wonderfully well, I decided to make some myself. I had a block of beautiful Turkish boxwood I got from my friend Neptune on this forum, and cut sections to match the original piece. All glued up and I need to drill and fit the screw and wing nut.
Joined Aug 4, Messages 1, Points I had to break the thing to get it to detach. When I ordered them they were backordered. This morning I received an email saying they were back in stock and to click the link to proceed with the order. They went up in price and from judging by the replies here and other things I have read, I won't be going ahead with the order. I'm glad it ended up being back ordered. I have used the plastic ones but screw shaft tends to come loose in the plastic over time.
This can be remedied, in some cases, by applying heat and melting the plastic a little so it grips the shaft more tightly. Pushpins are great on the first planking of a double planked hull but tend to damage the second planking if you are not careful.
I designed some of my own using plastic clothes pegs. I have posted the method of making these previously but here is the link fir anyone who has not seen it and may be interested. It would be great if I could persuade folk to bend planks by steam or dry heat so that they would be shaped to 'sit' nicely along the hull without need for 'persuasion' by screws, clamps or other devices of torture! Hey Druxey, you don't have to convince me. I completely agree with you. I bought a curling iron from Canadian Tire for that exact purpose.
It's better than forcing the wood into position. I learned the hard way. Hi Druxey. I have used heat and steam for over 30 years. However, there are still times, particularly on buff bows where you need something - planking screws - to hold planks in place until glue dries. I can't speak from experience as I only have a couple of years but on my bounty heat and steam just would not cut it some force was required and soaking would be great if it wasent but it was so I'm not yet convinced.
I used to use planking clamps but stopped using them because I found sooner or later I run out of place to attach the clamps on the fames. Now I soak and bend the wood then hold it in place with pin on pre-drilled hole on the frames.
I have two types of pins, one slightly thicker than the other. For the thicker pin, I pre-drill a 0. It held its place wel. After the glue dried I remove the pins. Before sanding the hull, I coated it with white glue to fill up the holes left. I don't find any problem with this procedure. Personally, I don't use the Micromark screws to force the planks at all.
I do a lot of soaking and pinning, and on my last build, spiling, to get the planks in a pre-formed positioned so that they don't have to be forced.
I do think it's important to clamp the planks in position while they are glued to get a tight fit though, and this is where I think the Micromark screws as well as other screws, pins, etc. If clamps must be used the clamp designs shown in the Ed Tosti's Naiad books and build logs are the best I have seen to date. For actual light holding of prebent strips while glue set - still resort to elastic bands with packing and scrap pieces pinned.
You can see some pinned scraps ready in the front. I find the pushpins are a trifle heavy for most places and I always drill a pilot. You can use the pinned scrap on final layer but then the pin goes in just off the strip and I always pack the end of the scrap off the strip with a piece of scrap to make the "nip" level. In the end, whatever works for each person is the best way to go, but based on experience of quite a few builders at MSW, if the planks are tapered and spiled or pre-formed using the method Chuck Passaro has described, there really is no need for any clamps or rubber bands.
Carpenters' glue and finger pressure for about seconds is really all that is needed. Any kind of clamp presents the danger of denting the planks, even if using a piece of scrap between the clamp and the plank. Just one more opinion based on trial and error over the years. Beg to differ slightly -carpenters glue if you mean PVA needs more than tens of seconds to grab securely but indeed not too long.
And i think we agree planks should be preshaped and that any kind of "clamping" Model Ship Building Plank Clamps 933 to actually form the plank as its fixed is unwise. I have found that properly shaped planks hold fine within 30 seconds most of the time, and always within a minute using the "yellow" version of PVA. It all comes down to making sure the planks are pre-bent and have no spring in them. Well, we did not get a full meter of snow like Binghamton, NY got in the past day or so, but it will be in the 40's Fahrenheit the next couple nights.
Actually, most of my modeling years were in New Jersey and it was the same there, albeit with the furnace going in winter. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor.
Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you.
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