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Fairly unpleasant to work with. Requires a lot of tooling ie. Not too difficult to repair. There is a method using sheets of pre laminated grp which can be stitched together much like a stitch and tape plywood hull and then laminated over on the inside the White Swan can be built this way as an alternative to ply construction - in fact most stitch and tape designs can be built this way - this is still a very messy process.
Not so easy to attach fittings too the foam needs to be replaced with plywood where fittings are attached which means a lot of pre planning is required. More difficult to repair than single skin. Steel Low cost. Construction materials easily available and building skills easily acquired. Easy to repair. Can suffer from condensation and corrosion may be a problem. Usually heavy construction and therefore often unsuitable for craft below 20' 6.
Aluminium Relatively high cost of materials. Requires specialist welding skills. Has a cold feel aluminium seats etc feel cold to the touch. More or less corrosion free and light weight. Relatively easily repaired with the correct welding equipment. Ferro-cement Layers of chicken wire over a steel rod framework and impregnated with cement.
Basic skills required. Difficult to attach other materials to ie. Heavy construction for boats over ' 7.
Can suffer from internal corrosion. Several of our designs for plywood have been built in steel and more often, in aluminium canoes and dinghies especially. For steel, we have had to remodel the hull to give more displacement volume by increasing beam and hull depth see our 22' Black Swan yacht and we can do this for many of our designs. Some of our wood designs have also been built in GRP and in foam sandwich and we can draw up the details to do this - however, the majority of the designs we offer and most of our new design work is for construction in wood, so let us have a brief look at the different ways in which wood can be used for home boat construction.
Requires high skills, expensive materials, traditional caulking between planks or glued splines and heavy framework. Requires high skills, expensive materials. Requires regular maintenance and is difficult to repair. Can suffer from leaks as the hull gets older. Cold Moulded Several layers of thin veneers of wood glued to each other over a jig or framework.
Fairly high skills and maybe the production of a jig that becomes redundant. Also uses expensive materials - produces a very strong monocoque hull shell. Difficult to repair. Can use low cost materials, requires low skills and only basic tools. The quickest, cheapest and easiest form of construction. Good for lightweight hulls. Moderate skills required - does not need extensive tools - takes longer than stitch and tape due to the conventional framework.
More expensive in smaller boats than stitch and tape but perhaps less so in larger plywood boats. Heavy weight construction. Fairly easy to repair. Fairly lightweight. Cold Moulded Similar to conventional cold moulded but sometimes vacuum bagged. Almost all fir plywood is rotary cut and exposed exterior surfaces will eventually check if unreinforced epoxy coatings are used.
Sliced veneer plywood has almost no tendency to check. However, we know of no source of sliced fir plywood so plan to put a light layer of cloth on all exterior fir plywood surfaces. Sliced veneer mahogany plywood is readily available in many coastal areas. This plywood is considerably more expensive than fir. Builders using this for small boats rarely fiberglass the surface.
Large boats are commonly fiberglassed if only because repair is far more costly if the epoxy coating is breached in impact.
Better to build in the protection during production. Plywood was probably first used in this type of construction which came along even before epoxy and polyester resins were developed.
This is a simple and straightforward method of boatbuilding. The builder makes the frames from a set of drawings or table of offsets. Some of the frames may be temporary while others stay as bulkheads in the finished boat.
The frames are mounted bottom up on a horizontal ladder-like structure called a strongback. Here the rungs are attached to the rails precisely at ninety degrees to the centerline. Strongbacks are precisely leveled so that plumb bobs may be used to aid in attaching the frames to the rungs.
Usually an overhead taut wire will represent the centerline in space. The frames are mounted on the rungs of the strongback so that centerlines and reference lines align precisely.
Temporary bracing is often used until the stringers are added. After this notches may be cut into the frames to mount the stringers, which are epoxy glued into place. Once the epoxy has cured the temporary bracing is removed as the frames and stringers are quite rigid. After this the strongback is superfluous. The plywood is epoxy coated, faired, and fiberglassed.
All the unit operations of epoxy use have been employed so far. There are a number of tricks that can make the epoxy work go easier. For example, the plywood frames could have been coated and sanded even prior to cutting from 4x8 sheets. Plywood planking should have been coated and sanded on the inside before the planking is attached. Some designs use molded chines rather than chine logs. Here, biaxial tape would be ideal to attach adjacent planking.
It is important to remember that there is no one right way to do most anything except for correct mix ratios!
Build it in your head first and you'll think of a lot of short cuts that work. In a way this uses plywood in hull construction in almost the reverse order of the frame, stringer, planking building method. Here the panels are cut to the correct shape and wired together with soft copper wire through small holes cut in adjoining planking edges.
Sometimes a frame or two are used to facilitate in the bending and joining of the panels. Once wired together the joints are glued by applying large epoxy fillets to the inside edges.
The wire is removed and the outside edges are taped with glass cloth and epoxy. Several bulkheads are added and stringers may be glued to the interior panels to increase stiffness. This construction method, also called sewn seam construction, lends itself very well to small boat construction where the internal structure of frames and stringers are not necessary. Lately several large production boats 56 feet have been built on the West Coast using this method.
The commercial builder of one of these made his own plywood on a 10 by 60 foot vacuum table. Interestingly, many huge fiberglass boats are partially constructed using this method bows and sterns are still made in a standard fiberglass mold.
Some designing skill is required to take a three dimensional concept and reduce it to a two dimensional drawing that can be laid out on plywood so that edges meet when the panels are cut and sewn together.
The first time builder should purchase plans rather than suffer the frustration involved in ruining several sheets of plywood "trying to get it right. Often, there are also ads for kits where the panels are already cut. Epoxy coating and perhaps even fiberglassing the panels prior to assembly will save lots of time in this construction method. Learning to make the "no sand" interior fillets described is a must. Removing the copper wire can be tricky. Some builders fillet right over it and then cut it off flush on the outside.
Here it becomes part of the boat. We heard of one builder who hooked the wire up to a car battery for a second or two and then pulled the red-hot wire out with a pair of pliers. We like the idea of making small fillets using Quick Cure 5 and wood flour, or alternately using SilverTip EZ-Fillet wood flour putty every six inches along the inside seam.
After a few minutes the wires can easily be removed and the regular fillet applied. Talk to your plans designer and see what he recommends. Many people believe that traditional lapstrake construction makes the most beautiful boat of all. They long for a more modern method that produces a light, strong boat without the maintenance problems of the traditional lapstrake boat. Basically, plywood is cut to the proper shape and one edge of each plank is beveled.
These planks are attached to temporary mold frames and permanently attached to the stem and transom. The boat is usually built upside down with the very bottom planks applied first. Successive planks are laid on these with about a half inch overlap. The laps are epoxy glued. Planking continues in this fashion to the gunnels.
The result is a lightweight, stiff boat. The stiffness comes from the doubling at the laps combined with the bent planks. So far, only small boats have been built using this method.
A chief aesthetic advantage of this style is that it allows for more roundness in the finished hull than other plywood methods. A possible disadvantage is that it is more tedious than sewn seam construction. We can't conceive of building a boat in this method without epoxy coating and fiberglassing the plywood panels prior to cutting the planks.
The boat would be impossible to fiberglass once assembled. Doing it first means that except for the cut plywood edges the boat is essentially "epoxied" before it is even assembled. We'd seal these after assembly and use fillets to round them into the adjacent planks.
There are several books available on glued lap construction. Check in the various boating magazines to find them. Buy a good design. As much as in stitch and glue construction, cutting and beveling the planks is critical to achieving good results.
Strip planking has been used to construct boats with lengths from eight feet prams to huge power and sailboats. The most common strip planked boats built today are canoes in the fifteen to eighteen foot range. Strip planking readily allows the builder to make compound curved hulls even in shorter lengths.
Strip planking is simply the edge gluing of long strips over temporary mold frames. Most often these are male mold frames although some advantage is possible using female mold frames.
The strips are cut somewhat longer than the boat so that they are long enough to be bent around the curve of the mold. Larger boats Wood Boat Construction Methods Limited use scarfed strips to achieve the proper length.
Western red cedar is often used to build canoes and smaller boats. It is lightweight and attractive lending itself well to bright finished hulls.
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