Buying a gigantic desk is expensive, and I happened to have tons of wooden pallets from all my Fringe Focus poster tube deliveries. Killed two birds with one stone, and chopped the pallets up into a mighty Wooden Pallets Sketch Edition big desk.
Plus I own a workshop, so DIY is the way to go. Honestly, despite what the internet seems to indicate, pallets are not a magical resource ideal for furniture. If you want a gorgeous flat piece of wood, look elsewhere. I had a ton of pallets in the basement because I receive all Wooden Pallets Sketch Labs of poster tubes on pallets. Or Craigslist? Use a claw hammer and wedge it beneath the board. Slowly rock the hammer to peel the board up, but be careful not to snap the board pallets are brittle. I suggest moving across the entire board, slowly lifting it up by fractions of an inch at different locations.
A crowbar helps for leverage, if you have one. If your pallet is particularly difficult, use a hack saw , jig saw , or whatever saw to detach the end points first! You lose about 1 inch on either end, but then you only have 3 nails to remove, instead of I found that half of my boards were very dark, and the other half were light two different pallets. So I chose to lay out the most interesting looking boards in this stripe pattern.
Yours could be a lot cleaner, I was aiming for a dirty look. But I wanted a very deep and wide desk. I have a large drawing tablet, two monitors, and usually lots of mess on my desk. I decided on an angled design, as that allows the edge facing me to be a tad longer. The wide end was 3 feet deep, the shallow end about 2 feet deep.
If you are lucky, your pallet boards will be exceptionally straight, blemish free, and without warps. I was not lucky. Many of the boards absolutely required jointing or planing so I could lay them flush with each other to form a table top. But I do not own a jointer or a planer.
I ripped these mofos on the table saw. I did a few of them with a custom built table slaw sled. But many other boards I just ripped freehand or with the saw fence.
This let an edge that bowed out half an inch or so become square. It was NOT perfect, but it was much better than attempting to build a desk surface with warped boards. Because I had half dark boards and half light boards , I wanted to accentuate the contrast. I took all of my dark pallet wood, and applied a custom pickling stain to it.
You let the steel wool begin to rust in the vinegar for a few days, then steep the tea bags. It can make brand new wood look gray, and it made my dark boards even darker. You could also paint your boards, use traditional stain, or leave them untouched.
I clamped the wide boards in pairs, and I clamped the smaller boards in threes as seen above. The underside of the desk shows huge thickness differences, but the top is relatively even.
So without a planer I had to rely on some trickery to ensure a level table top I can actually work on. This was done by clamping and gluing several 2x4s on the underside of the desktop. Again, the desk surface is flush with my workbench, but the underside has unevenness. Make sure you keep your clamps on until the glue is fully dry.
Also, I put like 5 million screws through the 2x4s into the pallet boards for extra rigidity. Maybe overkill.
Using the 2x4s as a guide, the desk top can be cut down to size. The ragged edges need to be cut flush. If you made a rectangular desk you could maybe skip this step, but since my desk has a 10 degree angle I had a lot to cut! If you have a large table saw, you could cut the entire desk top flush there. My saw and shop are simply too small, so using a handheld power saw ideally circular saw like a jig saw can work in a pinch. You can see my flush edge to the table top above and some more dark stain.
Since my pallet desk top was raggedly attached to some 2x4s, I had to hide the slop behind a nice edge. I had some 1x4s leftover from another project, and stained them dark brown for this desk.
Basically 4 boards each a different length. Glue up the 1x4s or whatever edge you like , and clamp like crazy. You could edge your desk with trim from Home Depot, paneling, or even tiles. I used an orbital sander with roughly grit sandpaper on the entire surface of the desk. In same cases I went so deep I took the stain right off partially intentionally.
There are a lot of divots, scratches, slivers, etc. I wanted the surface rather smooth since I will be interacting with it daily. If your boards are relatively clean, this will be easy. If not, have patience, and wear a respirator!
Pallet wood dust can be dangerous, so wear a mask and vacuum up all the dust. Unless you like working on the floor, you should add legs to your desk. I had some 4x4s laying around, so that informed my leg choices.
You could easily use steel rods, or 2x4s, or even traditional lathed legs. The 4x4s were stained and sanded in the same fashion as the desk top. For finishing woodworking projects, I stick to a lot of the same procedures. I use my custom pickling stain vinegar, steel wool, tea for aging the wood when necessary, and I use Danish oil for most surfaces.
I mix the Danish oil myself in a jar. Let this soak in for 30 minutes , then remove the excess with a dry rag. Then re-apply in the same fashion and let this dry for 15 minutes or so. You can keep flooding with Danish oil on repeat for a while, but I find 2 or 3 coats to work. For my desk, I added a final layer of brush-on oil based polyurethane a day after the Danish oil had dried. I applied a glossy polyurethane to the pallet desk top and edges, but NOT the legs, to give some contrast.
Depending on your desired finish and quality of your wood you can sand the desk with steel wool between coats, or grit sandpaper for the polyurethane. Let the poly cure for at least a day before use. New art each month. You are also entered to win a poster giveaway at random each month! Join thousands of Fringe Focus subscribers.
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