Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Net. Tags: aluminum boat boat build plating hull. Hello All - I am new to this forum and would like some advise or feed back on this build.
I pick up the plans from Glen-l. Frames and keel has been assembled and I am creating the template to plate the hull right now. JPG File size: What do the plans call for? What types of tools do i need to bend the two halves together? Also how can I calculate the curvature of the boat to build this form? Great advice, but it seems like a lot to go through given I have the frames set up and the template for the hull plating ready. The boat is 20 feet long by 8 feet wide i re uploaded the picture of the boat as it sits today.
This boat is a one off as most boats built by amateurs. Personally building a CAD model of the boat and then creating a mold for it seem a bit excessive.
I appreciate your help, anyone else have some ideas? Edit: Just had a relook through the pictures, so I think I have a better idea what you are asking.. The normal way is to simply apply pressure with timber lengths and compression straps until the plate conforms to the metal jig. You can hold it in place with clamps at each edge with clamps alone, or you can use timber strips clamped over the aluminium , with the timber clamped to each steel frame. PS - if you get a really difficult piece to bend, this has some info.
More details of pulling plates to frames. Note how they drill a hole through the bottom of the sheet, and insert an eye hook, so they can pull a curve into the bottom sheet at the bow.
Found a good video on the welding process for aluminium. Thanks for the info!!! I appreciate the feedback. What type of boats have you guys built? Some comments Our niche was building 18 to 24 foot by 8 foot beam aluminum jet boats but have built up to 36 feet. This is considerably different than heating steel to a red hot phase and having it hold its shape.
Aluminum oxide has a higher melting temperature than the aluminum underneath so the shape can be retained until the outer temp is reached and entire section can just fall away. As an experiment, take a length of aluminum and heat it and you will discover what I am explaining. We had temp sticks, a crayon, that as we heated the stringer, we would just take the crayon and make a mark with it on the heated aluminum, if the crayon melted and got shiny, then that is the temp of the material.
I do not want to give you inaccurate information here but, memory is questionable, I think we used degree temp 2 The sweep of the bow appears quite tight. Generally if the bow has a fast or tight curve then the chine cannot also have the same tight turn or the plate will not fit flat.
As you have a plan from a known builder, there is a good chance that the two are compatible to make a developable surface and that the sheet will in fact lie on both edges tightly. As we built on a steel, male jig, we had tabs welded on the male jig and if a piece of aluminum was not snugging up, we would get under the jig and drill up through the hull, drop a bolt in it and pull the plate down to the jig.
After, just don't forget to weld up the holes. You should make the template as one compete piece, joining the ply with a thin batten at the 8 foot intervals, thin so that the shape or curve of your pattern is not impacted from the hard spot that a heavy batten can produce at the joint.
If you make a template from small independent pieces there is a chance that you will have fitment issues. Other wise you will have a disjointed joint, had to. Unless absolutely critical, I would not use Tig on a boat hull. The slow speed of tig 7 welding introduces a lot of aluminum expansion into the sheet so that you actually can weld in deformation in the hull.
Some will say not, and occasionally we used Tig but not often. When you are doing a butt weld you must cut out the backside of the weld before welding the backside. Most important!! Aluminum work hardens extremely easy. And the stress concentration due to the notch effect can cause failure due to small localized work hardening 8 Also when you start and stop any long seams, you must cut back the bead where you stopped to ensure that when you stopped the first bead there was not a weld crevice due to the bead cooling quickly.
You can try this out on some scrap. If I think of anything else I will let you know. Barry , Feb 26, Thank you for the input.
I will post some pictures of the progress. To see the exact path of the blade into the back side of the joint, you have to get quite close to it. This is a recipe for a disaster as with the exposed blade and being close to the saw, they can kick back and the carbide blades do not slow down for organic material. It was a safety policy in our shop that any potential kick back path did not cross over a thigh, leg etc.
They have less mass and if they bind they are harder to control kick back but sometimes due to access, they are used. Recommend two levels of eye protection, only as your head is so close to the hot chips, safety glasses and face shield, Did not intend to be so wordy, but this is one of the most dangerous hull welding processes of constructing a hull, short of dropping it on someone when you roll it over. Last edited: Feb 28, Barry , Feb 28, What is the purpose of cutting the backside of the weld?
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