Is it Normal for the Trailer to Float Away? - Boat Talk - Chaparral Boats Owners Club
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By Toohuman , June 4, in Boat Talk. When I back down into the water, if there is any current at all, within a few minute after the boat is off or as I'm trying to load the trailer floats away and if left for more than a few minutes the 14ft Aluminum Boat Trailer Update trailer floats to a 45 degree angle which puts it either under the pier or blocking the entire two boat launch space.

One time it floated over and got near to the adjacent boater trying to load while he was gracious, no doubt he was not pleased. Understanding that I'm new with this boat, this creates a lot of anxiety to try and load the boat while the trailer is floating away and changing the angle that I need to enter.

A couple points to note for your analysis, this floating gets worse the further in the water I am obvious yes, but thought I would cover the simple item first. It appears that for me to float the boat and load the trailer I have to have the trailer down far enough or else the boat won't go on.

I pull the boat down about to where the tires are submerged but the fenders are not completely underwater. I've read that even adding over lbs has not helped others fix this issue.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Interesting problem More weight A few obvious notes Have you contacted the trailer manufacturer about this? Sounds like your trailer is just very light.

Not much you can do other than adding a bunch of weight to it. Mine is steal so I don't have that problem. Maybe wait to submerge until the boat is right there ready to pull on I have noticed my aluminum trailer move on me also, and I ramp on a lake.

From what I have read, about the only thing you can do is hang some weights on it prior to retrieving. Either that or find someone to hold it down prior to getting the boat on it. I did add some guide poles that assist me in finding center it when it does move on me a little. What if you tied a rope or strap from the corner of the trailer to the corner of the bumper on your tow vehicle before backing in? Would that help keep it straight? One more thought Is the trailer frame completely sealed, or does it have holes in it where water can enter and then drain out after pulling it up the ramp?

That was what I was thinking sflyer. Almost sounds like he has an air pocket in the rails that is adding buoyancy to the trailer.

I use to launch my old boat in some ripping tidal currents and never had a problem like this. Toohuman, can you post some photos of the trailer for us? Although I have a steel trailer my trailer has holes drilled into it to allow water to get it and keep it place. This is how I bought, not sure if the holes are strategic in placement but I've never had an issue with it moving on me.

Could be a simple solution as long as it does not effect the integrity of the trailer I doubt it's trapped air. I have a similar Sport Trail and I can't see where air could get trapped.

It's a very standard aluminum I-beam trailer. The cross bars are boxed, but shaped such that any air can get out the ends. Mine does have pretty tall "I" sections to the main rails and I can see where it could catch a current.

I'd look at the tire air pressure and tread. If the tires are too hard the contact patch will be too small. Also, add a heavy pair of uprights to guide you on and add weight. Mine has these and they're very solid and seem heavy. I don't know the overall length of my trailer, but I'd guess it at 28'. I have steel wheels, the uprights and four large bunks and I'd say the trailer is at least I've tried moving it in the driveway by hand boat off, of course and it's no leightweight!

Hopefully that would be just enough to stop the drift. At minimum, the uprights make life easier. When I was looking to buy a trailer, some of the units we looked at had boxed sections instead of the I-beam construction. Is your trailer I-beam or boxed? When you back the trailer into the water, do you see air bubbles escaping from the frame? If the trailer is a boxed design, it wouldn't be unheard of for the frame to become boyant quickly.

I will say that my aluminum trailer doesn't move, even with 10" I beams, no matter what the current is doing. There has to be something going on here, as I can't imagine this is how the manufacture intended the trailer to perform.

Thanks for everyone's comments. The trailer appears to be an I-beam construction. I have attached one of the better photos of the boat with the trailer. The boat and trailer are currently in the shop and thus I am unable to get you a better trailer focused shot.

However, you can see that possible air pocket locations could be the wheel wells, the skids, lights and tires. But aside from that I don't see what else could float the trailer like that. Looks like the i-beams, wheels and fenders could catch enough current to move this relatively light trailer. I agree with the previous post. Maybe talk to a tire dealer who handles your trailer tires and discuss air pressures for the weight of your boat.

Preferrably the manager or at least someone who knows more than just how to change your tire. Might try making a temporary mount on the trailer to hang some weights once you get ready to dunk the trailer. Thinking gym weights or tractor weights. I'll see if there is a way to add weight plates that won't risk causing a hull breach and not damage the trailer.

Any suggestions on this before I go out with the drill, some weight and a vengeance? Try not backing the trailer in so deep. I had the same issue with my little boat and found if I kept the tops of the fenders above the water, the issue stopped!

A lot of people tend to back in way to far and don't realize it's causing more issues. On my SSi with bunks, I cannot get the boat off the trailer unless I submerge several inches above the top of the fenders. The boat acts like it is glued to the bunks. I have looked at adding teflon coated skids to the top of the bunks to ease the slide.

If they work, then I would not have to back in so deep. If anyone has dealt with these devices, I would like to have their opinion on them. Don't suppose you have an option on ramps with less current? I had the same problem with my trailer on my ssi. Simple solution I'd have the driver in the truck back down not quite far enough to get the boat all the way up.

The after I pull the boat on far enough to keep the trailer from floating I have the driver back the trailer all the way down the ramp. Then I'd pull the boat the rest of the way up.

What driver? You mean the Admiral?!! Sorry, Couldn't resist. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed.

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