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Used Ski & Wakeboards Boats | myboat115 boatplans
Anyone know anything about these boats or this model. Things such as build quality and handling. This boat has a ltr efi merc with bravo one. Is the ltr engine any good. My present Crownline ccr has a 5ltr efi. Any views or thoughts much appreciated guys.� not a bad boat I consider Mariah better built to the average US built sportsboat I think versus your Crownline I think Are Mariah Boats Good Boats it is better and I reckon it has better sea keeping too but really I have nothing to base these facts more of what I think having a friend who has a Mariah from which is well built and quite. Mariah Boats Inc. started manufacturing in and unlike most new companies they did not try to compete with the entry level manufacturers. They aimed at the high end builders like Cobalt. They used the best materials and thier fit and finish was very good, but not perfect(although still better than most). They struggled in this segment of the market, not having any reputation to back up thier quality and price. 11 years later in (not ) Mariah Boats Inc. closed thier doors and sold hull molds etc to Sea Fox. There were no Mariah's. In the new Mariah Boat Co. started se. Mariah Boats Incorporated offers a product line-up of bowriders, cubby cabin and cruiser boat shells. Handcrafted watercraft at prices deemed affordable is a goal of Mariah Boats. Wearing certification of the National Marine Manufacturers Association, Mariah Boats quality assurance includes a lifetime limited warranty on the hull more. (See less). Mariah Boats Inc Note. No longer in production. For further information, see Mariah Boat Co more. (See less).

Listed below are 72 proven blue water voyaging monohull fiberglass sailboats up to 32 feet in length. The list, though incomplete, is aimed at helping those who have asked me for recommendations on buying a boat for cruising and potential offshore voyaging.

Some of the boats listed here I have sailed and know well, others I know from working on them, or by research and reputation. Obviously, the Ariel is not as suitable to a voyage around Cape Horn as the Westsail. That does not disqualify these coastal cruiser designs from voyaging.

It does mean it makes sense to take extra efforts to prepare these boats for offshore and make more conservative route planning to sail in safer latitudes and milder seasons. Like any tool, you need to use the right boat for the job. All boats are compromises of desirable and undesirable features for any given task and the smaller the boat the more obvious the compromises become.

If you want a diesel or electric inboard engine or plan to sail engineless, then these designs may suit your needs. Another compromise area is standing headroom. Ideally you want to be able to stand up at least in the main salon.

If you are above average height, then a small boat is not likely to have the headroom you require. You can either move up in boat size to gain more headroom, choose a small boat with an ungainly tall coach roof, or resign yourself to stoop. On some boats it may be possible to drop the cabin sole a few inches, if needed. At the very least, if your pocket cruiser is not already set up this way, you may want to retrofit your galley next to the companionway hatch so that you can stand up when preparing food with the hatch slid open.

A big plus for boats like the Pearson Ariel, Triton, Alberg 30, some of the Bristol and Cape Dory line and similar boats on this list is that they are relatively inexpensive and are proven offshore capable. This means you have the option of not buying insurance and could even replace them with a small emergency savings fund, which I call being self-insured.

Also their long production runs mean there are always some available on the market. And they have lazarette lockers that often can be modified for an outboard motor well when the inboard engine has reached the end of its life or, like me, you simply can't tolerate the wasted space, complexity, and fouling your bilge with oil and fuel leaks that comes with an inboard engine.

Although some boats on this list were offered with an outboard well, they are generally poorly designed non-tilting wells, which Are Mariah Boats Good 1.12.2 is why I specialize in converting suitable boats to tilt-up outboard wells. You can find them featured in my atomvoyager youtube channel and in this article. Despite my own preference, most sailors prefer to have the ample power and ability to motor in more adverse conditions that comes with an inboard diesel over the limitations of an outboard motor.

It depends on the sailor more than anything else. For those that can afford them, the more expensive boats on this list such as Pacific Seacraft and Morris Yachts have some advantages such as higher quality materials and construction and better resale value.

As for the rig, I've sailed sloops, yawls, ketches, schooners and junks, and they all have their attributes. A sloop rig is simple and efficient and the most common, though a cutter or sloop modified to carry a staysail or inner stay to hoist a storm jib, possibly with a short bowsprit, is what I recommend because it adds strength, more versatility in sail options and redundancy to the rig.

This list mostly contains older boats with rudders hung on moderately full keels, which compared to more modern designs, are generally slower boats because of more wetted surface and drag. A true full keel is traditionaly considered one that extends most of the length of the waterline. Anything else, such as a full keel with cutaway forefoot and with the aft end of the keel moved a few feet forward might technically be defined as a fin keel.

But in common usage today a fin keel refers to a keel that is shorter fore and aft, often bolted on instread of molded into the fiberglass hull, and having a spearate rudder.

Technically, my Pearson Triton and similar style keels are often defined as "fin" keels, although to differentiate between these and shorter more modern fin keels I refer to them as three-quarter keel AKA modified full keel, semi-full keel, or full with cutaway forefoot. Short but deep deep fin keels and unprotected spade rudders and other hull forms that may compromise handling and strength and restrict shallow water navigation are not on this list.

Although a deep fin keel and separate spade rudder will give you a speed edge to windward and improved maneuvering in a marina, the spade rudder and exposed propeller will snag on lines and fish nets and if you hit anything underway and damage the rudder, the boat's steering is too easily disabled. Most of the boats built in the past 40 years do not have keel-hung rudders and many of them perform well and have proven to be safe at sea, particularly those with skeg-hung rudders, where the hull adds some strength and protection to the rudder.

A full skeg that protects the bottom of the rudder is often a good compromise. Voyaging is about being at sea and at anchor. If you intend to sail in and out of tight marinas on a regular basis instead of crossing oceans, then more modern designs might be your better choice.

An unavoidable issue with the newer boats on this list is that many of them are built with interior fiberglass hull liners to save money on construction. Though this makes production more efficient, it makes it more difficult for the owner to modify or gain access to all areas of the hull.

You can always cut away non-structural portions of the liner to gain the access needed but good luck on getting rid of a roach infestation on a linered boat.

Most of the boats on the list have fiberglass decks cored with balsa wood. This can be a problem. It's long been and still is a fairly standard construction procedure, but it would be better for longevity of the core if they had used better construction techniques to prevent water intrusion into the core or, better yet, used closed cell foam core or even the heavier plywood core or solid fiberglass layup.

The main problem is the deck fittings were often not installed properly through the cored area and over time the water gets into the core around the fasteners and slowly spreads.

Minor core damage around fasteners can be repaired easily, but extensive rotten core as evidenced by a dull thud with a mallet or excessive flex and spongy feel when walking on the deck or deck flexing when you pull at the top of a stanchion, is a major repair.

You can still sail with moderately rotted deck core since it is seldom bad enough to be an issue of strength. The problem is that a rotted core makes it impossible to seal leaks in the deck fittings and that water will be a major nuisance as it trickles below into lockers and shelves.

A surveyor can help you avoid a boat with rotted balsa core or help you negotiate a better price to offset repairs. Cored hulls are more rare � only a few boats on this list, such as the Southern Cross 28 and 31, have cored hulls. Those that do, use a closed cell urethane type core which when properly installed has proved not to be a problem and is actually a plus because it is lighter for the same strength or stronger for the same weight and adds insulation. I realize there are many other capable designs and that other sailors will disagree with my preferences.

Good boats that are generally unavailable on the used boat market because they were custom built or had a very short production run are not listed. If you find a boat with the criteria set out above and it's custom built or a short-run production boat, then it's also worth consideration.

Begin by realistically deciding on your expected use, whether crossing oceans alone or with a family, limited coastal trips with crew or some combination of those.

If you're sailing alone or with one other person, then the smaller boats on this list are worth considering. If you have kids and a dog, and can't find a way to leave them ashore, you'll want a boat at the larger end of the list. Even those may not be big enough, in which case I'd recommend cutting the crew list rather than lengthening the boat.

At any rate, make a list of your own requirements in a boat, such as cost, draft, amount of headroom needed below deck, inboard or outboard engine and so on. Then start looking closer at the boats on this list that match your criteria. Go aboard as many of these boats as you can and ask questions of their owners until you find the right boat for you.

Once you've narrowed it down, try to arrange a test sail if you're serious about the boat. Keep in mind that the seller or broker may be reluctant to offer a test sail due to bad experiences in the past where buyers just out for an education wasted their time on test sails without doing enough prior research to know they were interested in actually buying the boat. Make an offer to purchase contingent on a satisfactory survey and then find a surveyor who will do a thorough inspection, not just the standard quick check required for an insurance company.

Be there with the surveyor to ask questions and have them point out to you any issues with the boat. Older boats will require more upgrades time and money simply because of their age unless a recent owner has already refit the boat. Many of the boats on this list were built over forty years ago, so virtually all their systems � rigging, engine, rudder, deck core, electrics � will require repair or replacement.

The previous owner of that finely fitted out classic boat has poured far more money into upgrades and equipment than he will get out of it when he sells and you as buyer are in Are Triton Boats Good To Know a good position to save substantial time and money. Remember, the most expensive boat to own is the one that had the cheapest asking price.

So my advice is not to hunt for the cheapest boat on the market, but the best boat you can afford. There will always be issues to compromise on. In most cases you can convert back to tiller. Boats that came from the factory with wheel steering as standard equipment are not on this list unless the conversion back to tiller steering is simple and the boats otherwise merit inclusion. You may ask, if wheel steering is so popular and makes the boat look yacht-like to you, why do I dismiss them?

A steering failure at sea is no joke and is much more common with wheel steering and can be difficult to jury rig a repair. Why not list bigger boats? My feeling is you should get the smallest boat that will suit your requirements rather than the largest boat you feel you can afford. A boat any larger than around foot and 5 tons means significantly bigger, heavier, more expensive gear, higher maintenance costs and more labor to maintain and operate. Maintenance and equipment costs can double between a 28 to a footer.

An outboard motor under 10 HP is far less costly to replace and maintain than a diesel and provides adequate thrust for boats under foot. At some point you may want to put your boat on a trailer to refit in your backyard and this becomes difficult for boats over foot and 12, lbs if you intend to pull it yourself with a heavy-duty ball hitch on a pickup truck.

Nor can you pull up the anchors by hand on a windy day. Granted, a heavy displacement boat closer to 32 feet is potentially safer and better suited for high latitude voyages and will generally have an easier motion at sea.

But a smaller, less-complex boat will give you as much or more pleasure and is safer to sail in most situations. And for those on a budget it will get you sailing sooner rather than later. If, after cosidering everything above, you feel a larger boat with different design criteria is suitable for your purposes then you can check out the sailboat reviews at Blue Water Boats. A final word of advice to the novice sailor - resist the temptation to undertake a major refit and extensive modifications on your new old boat right at the start.

It's best to make only the obvious repairs needed and go out and sail locally and on some limited coastal passages to learn exactly what is and what is not needed for you. Otherwise you may end up spending years and many thousands of dollars more than expected modifying your boat and then find out on your first ocean crossing that the boat is not right for you or those great ideas you had during the refurbishment did not work out that well at sea.

The following boats are listed here with the idea that they will be modified as needed for the type of voyages expected of them. Ballast: 1, lbs. Sail Area: sq ft. General Comments: In Bruce Bingham designed the Flicka to be one of the smallest offshore capable pocket cruisers.

Built first by Nor-star with some available as owner-finished kits. Pacific Seacraft then built Flickas from to around Pluses: Pacific Seacraft sailboats are known for quality construction and good resale value.

Minuses: This egg-shaped boat would be cramped for two liveaboards and the inboard diesel option leaves even less room for gear and provisions, but the interior is surprisingly spacious. Relatively slow in light winds. The lack of a bridge deck on pre models could expose the cabin to flooding from the cockpit.

Sail Area: sq.

Final:

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