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If structural repairs or changes are required that you don't have Bass Boat Trailer Repair 50 the skill, confidence, or time to complete yourself, consult an expert. Be especially careful in your inspection if your trailer's seen saltwater in its lifetime or if you've used acidic hull cleaners.
Trailers subjected to these elements typically have significant rust-through and the frame can be very weak. If in doubt, bring it to a trailer shop to have an expert give it the once-over. It's worth the hassle and expense because it just might save you from a catastrophic failure while towing, or at the very least, save you from wasting money and time on a basket case.
For this article, we refurbished a generic galvanized skiff trailer. The old winch was rusty, the frame was showing some minor signs of surface corrosion, the wooden bunks were rotting, and the lights didn't work consistently. Note: This job will differ with each trailer and its good and bad parts. The size, weight, and type of boat will have a bearing on how easy � or difficult � it is to remove it from the trailer.
In my case, the boat was small and lightweight so I was able to pick a good spot in our yard, tilt the boat nose-high, and secure the boat while I pulled the trailer out from under it.
On a previous occasion with a larger and heavier boat, I built a temporary cradle from treated pine to hold the boat while I rerigged the boat and rebuilt the trailer. With the trailer free of the boat, strip all components from it and make a list of what you'll replace. In addition to taking photos, take measurements of where things like the axle, winch, bunks, or rollers, and any spare tire may go.
For this project, I wanted to get the trailer back to just the frame and start from there. I removed the old rotten wooden bunks, the very rusty winch, the lights, and safety chains. The added benefit was that with these components removed, the bare trailer frame was much lighter and easier to handle. I was able to singlehandedly flip the trailer to check the underside, something that would have been impossible with the wheels, springs, and axle in place.
Much of the galvanized coating was in good condition, and the main structural members, I was pleased to note, were all in sound condition. A thorough wire brushing to remove surface rust and scale was pretty easy, though messy and time-consuming. I followed this with a good acetone wipe to clean the surface and prepare it for me to spray cold galvanize paint on all the exposed areas. Some components, especially around the bunk mounts and light brackets, were pretty corroded and required cutting off with an angle grinder.
Reassembly of the trailer was straightforward and quick. I measured for the new bunks using the old ones as templates. Then I cut them from treated pine 2-by-6 boards and covered them with new carpet, which I glued with contact cement and stapled with stainless steel staples on the underside. To reattach bunks and other components, I used Grade 5 galvanized steel bolts and washers and Nylock locking nuts to eliminate rusting and rattling loose.
With the new bunks and winch in place, I wired the trailer with new LED lights and wiring kit, taking care to use grommets and other insulating material where the wiring insulation might chafe.
After reinstalling the fiberglass fenders with new stainless bolts, we were ready to winch the boat back onto its trailer. With a couple of helpers to ensure it goes steadily, the process is much easier than it sounds. Many lighting kits come with these squeeze Scotch-Lok type of wiring connectors that don't stand up to regular dunking.
Use waterproof crimp connections instead:. The old trailer was in a sorry state. One of the first jobs was removing the old trailer bunks:. The dirtiest part of the job was removing the old rust prior to refinishing:. To protect the light wiring from chafe and keep everything neat, I used these clips, which require no drilling or alterations to the trailer:. In addition to the bunks themselves I replaced the severely corroded support brackets:.
I attached waterproof carpet to the bunks using contact cement and stainless steel staples:. Before hitting the road, double check all your work, make sure all bolts are tight, and bunks or rollers are well secured. If there is any possible issue, have a professional shop check it. Your trailer will probably be seeing highway duty, so it must be in good condition.
In some states you may need to have your trailer inspected, so check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles for regulations in your area. Often smaller trailers without brakes have less stringent requirements than larger twin- and triple-axle trailers capable of carrying heavy boats, but it always pays to check.
It works shockingly well. Just knock off the flakes or bubbles and paint it on. It turns seals and stops the rust and then you paint right over it. Much easier this way Not show quality but no one but me ever noticed it wasn't original paint. Bedliner sounds like it might be a good option- but I don't know enough about it or the properties of the roll on vs spray on, etc.. Traditional primer and paint is good, if prepped right, and obviously can look nice. Either way, the prep usually makes the finish job and you have to get rid of the rust or seal it.
The easiest and most economical long run is to get Bass Boat Trailer Repair 100 it sandblasted and then use a product called POR Use the cleaner and then the top coat. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. Write for BassResource! Fishing Glossary Frequently Asked Questions. Instagram Youtube Facebook Twitter Pinterest. Boat Trailer Repair? Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Quarry Man Posted March 23, Posted March 23, Link to post Share on other sites.
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