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Dinghy Kits | stanleysmallcraft Dec 18, �� A few months ago, home editor Roy Berendsohn tried his hand boat-building, making a foot dinghy using old Popular Mechanics plans from , hand tools and a cramped garage.
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Broken inwales, solid timber breasthook and quarter knees are standard in Tenderly kits, giving the boat a classic smart appearance. Traditional floorboards are an optional addition and they complete the Tenderly's image as well as being practical. The computer-cut kits are intricately detailed and designed with first-time builders in mind. Every trick we've developed over the decades has been deployed here: tab-and-slot alignment of bulkheads, puzzle-joints and pre-drilled holes for wire stitches.

The daggerboard slot is pre-cut in the central seat and the mast partner hole is pre-cut in the forward seat for upgrading to sailing at a later date.

If you don't intend to sail the boat, we can also provide these parts without the holes cut, on request. The daggerboard case and mast step are included in the base kit, so the sailing option can be added during the initial build or after a few years rowing.

Please note that the base kit or a completed hull is needed in addition to the sailing option. The sailing rope package contains all of the line Build Your Own Mirror Dinghy Sample and sail lacing needed to get you sailing once your boat is complete. The package includes the mainsheet, main halyard, downhaul and sail lacing.

Floorboards are a luxury, without a doubt. These CNC-cut 12mm okoume marine plywood floorboards are fitted exactly to Tenderly's interior, with convenient alignment tabs and the fastener holes already drilled. Screwed down with stainless steel fasteners included , the floorboards are removable for maintenance and refinishing. We didn't forget an opening in the floorboards at the deepest part of the boat so Build Your Own Lowe Boat Kitchen you can pump or sponge bilgewater.

The motor pad option strengthens the transom to enable mounting an outboard motor. The option includes the 12 mm forward and 18 mm aft pads, CNC-cut from the same okoume marine plywood as the hull kit, with a stepped mortice in the aft pad. Stainless steel carriage bolts, wing nuts and washers are included for mounting the pad to the transom. Click here for the installation diagram. These plans and manual contain sufficient information on the cutting of the panels to make it possible to build the boat from scratch.

The plans include full size templates for every piece of the boat. Bulkhead and stitch-hole positions are marked and complete details for the sail and spars are included.

The parts-count is higher than some of our designs, so plans-builders should be comfortable reading plans and have access to a full suite of woodworking machinery. This is intended for pre-build study or to help with the decision to purchase. Reading this manual will help you decide whether or not you can build the boat.

It is the manual that accompanies the kits. It describes all of the techniques that will be used during the building and also a step by step guide to construction. Scale drawings are used throughout as well as photographs of critical jobs. If, later, you decide to purchase the kit the cost of this printed manual will be deducted from the kit price. This does not contain the plans of the panels with the cutting instructions so it is not possible to build the boat from scratch using only this.

A few months ago, I decided to try my hand at the ancestral trade. I've built everything from houses to a blacksmith's forge March , but there's no more evocative project than a boat, at least to me. Since before Austronesians first gazed across the Pacific, wooden vessels have stood for craftsmanship and the drive to explore. I sifted through PM's archives looking for a classic design and eventually settled on a foot dinghy from our May issue. It looked elegant, yet simple enough to build on a pair of sawhorses.

It's been many years since my Uncle Paul was around to lend advice, so I ran the drawings past Timo White, a boatbuilder at Tuckerton Seaport, a small maritime museum on the New Jersey coast. It turned out that Timo was in the midst of Wooden Model Ship Building Kits Inc restoring a surfboard built from plans in the July issue of PM.

It was a big year for seafaring projects, I guess. He confirmed that the dinghy was a good candidate for a first-time builder and agreed to lend a hand if needed. On a wintry early spring morning I set out for Willard Brothers Woodcutters, a sawmill and lumber dealer in Trenton, N. You can spend hours there, roaming stacks of delicious-looking walnut, cherry and oak, some of the boards as wide as your arm is long.

I bought red oak for the Sea Scout's frames that was the name of the craft in the plans, and I chose to keep it and a 2-inch-thick slab of white oak for the wedge-shaped stem at the bow. Back home, I started making a racket feeding planks through a table saw. My skills were creaky--I've spent too much time in recent years fixing stuff and not enough building--but over a few days my old confidence returned.

The Sea Scout began to take form. Most boats begin with the frames, the ribs that provide structure to the hull. Then I braced it all to a building board--which is nothing more than a 2 x 10 with a chalk line marked down the center. The boat's skeleton was in place, but each member still needed to be precisely beveled before I could secure the curved planks of the hull. The next step was to clamp thin strips of wood, called battens, to the frame to stand in for the planks, so I could measure and mark all those angles.

Then, I took the parts off the board and finished shaping them. Often, the weather confined me to the garage, but when the sun emerged I worked in the driveway. If you want to get to know the neighbors, start building a boat. Linda from next door asked whether the craft would be sailed, rowed or powered by an outboard motor.

Others wondered where I would go with it, how I'd get it there and what I would name it. A truck driver from Tulnoy Lumber, dropping off some marine plywood, approached respectfully. These plans for a small and simple sailing boat design called a Biloxi Dinghy appeared in Popular Mechanics in May To simplify the project, I omitted the mast and centerboard.

Instead, I built the Sea Scout, named after the craft in the original article, to be rowed or powered by an outboard motor. She works well in either configuration. Download the original plans [PDF]. Building Board: Like most small wooden boats, the Sea Scout was built bottom side up. Most pieces aren't permanently connected until relatively late in the process, but every element of the frame had to be shaped to fit together precisely.

The foot-long building board, made from a 2 x 10, held the parts in the right positions while the bevels were measured and again when it was time to join the frames together with the chine logs and planking. Bottom Member: The frames underlying the dinghy's hull were fashioned from red oak. The curved section is the bottom member--each one was cut with a jigsaw and smoothed using a block plane.

Side Member: The gently tapered oak side members meet the bottom members at a slight angle. These pieces are cut oversize, then shortened to finished length. Gusset: The gussets joining the bottom and side framing members are cut from oak and fastened with epoxy and bronze screws, some of which ended up being too close to the gusset's edge. Cross-Spall: Cross-spalls support each frame during the building process. They're screwed to the side members and the building board.

After the planking is done, the boat is turned upright and the supports are removed. I don't know how Uncle Paul felt about it, but boatbuilding can be acutely frustrating. The bane of my weekends proved to be a small bronze screw. Like most modern DIYers, I'd been spoiled by drywall screws and other aggressive fasteners that practically plow into the lumber. Even using a specialized, tapered drill bit and a waxlike lubricant with the unlikely name of Akempucky, I managed to wreck screws by the dozen.

The head on one would strip a moment before the screw was fully seated, while another would shear off on the last eighth of a turn, leaving me with a shiny Frearson-head penny.

Timo had tried to downplay the arcana I'd face--"It's more like house carpentry than fine-furniture building," he had said--but I still found myself floundering on occasion.

One challenge was that the article was more an overview than a detailed set of plans. And, though it pains me to find fault with my forebears at Popular Mechanics, the sketch contained suspicious discrepancies. Timo helped me recalibrate some of the dimensions midway through the project--and I had to trim several pieces after they were assembled.

The biggest hurdle came when it was time to plank the hull. The classic way is to bend strips of solid wood to the frames. I'd chosen marine-grade fir plywood instead to save time, but now I was barely able to force the hull's inch sheets into place.

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