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Ship Free 3D Models for Download - Open3dModel Clamps. Micro-Mark is the experts' source for clamps for micro projects. Our mini clamps are must-have items for every modeler and hobbyist and can be used for supporting work pieces that need to be soldered, filed, drilled or carved, filed, drilled or carved. Ship and Boat Model Kits. Whether you are a model ships building professional or hobbyist, Micro-Mark carries everything you need to create the perfect vessel! Explore our quality selection of ship model kits. If you require precision model ship building kits, you'll benefit by making Micro-Mark your supplier of choice. Welcome! My name is Bob Hunt and I build model ships for a hobby. I've been building these wonderful models for over 23 years now. I want to share with you a very detailed set of instructions on how to build a fairly simple "Plank on Frame" model ship. The ship I've chosen for this Instructable is known as the Hannah. It was the first ship in.
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In short time we repaired a wooden fishing boat about 45 feet long. Using nothing but steam to bend the wood. Although I know some master model makers use alchol like GaryM said. My father had used a wood bending machine and burnt his hands and the wood often maybe they are better today than in 's. For me I like GaryM's way he makes a lot of sense. But for others They will find using a steamer is the way to go and others will just soak them in water.

So I just think each person needs to decide for them selves which is better for them. Since there are many ways to bend wood , :laughing-rofl: who knows as long as we get the wood bent and it doesn't break. The iron is a heating tool. It never gets hot enough to ignite the wood. Thus, I think it uses only about enough energy as a night light.

I agree that a wood burning tool uses a lot more. To actual etch the wood, it has to be very hot. To test the heating tool, I lick my figure and quickly touch the iron to know if it is hot enough. The sizzle lets me know. Joined Mar 22, Messages Points For pre-cut gun-ports, I just soak 'em in hot steaming water in the kettle for about 30 mins dry fit to the bulkheads and temporarily hold them in place with clothespins.

This is repeated several times until they follow the shape of the bulkheads. For regular planks, I'm too lazy for soaking so I just use the plank nipper with brute force and superglue :twisted: I personally find that the bending isn't too much the problem in planking, it's all the spiling, camfering and tapering of the planks that really bugs me. When you get to advanced kits, the gunports are not precut. Some give you a template to put on the ship to mark where to cut.

A few kits cut the ports as part of the planks to be appplied. Mantua does not give you any of this. For tapering the planks, I mark a few places along the plank and then put it in strip and hull clamp hold by Amati Art. Joined Mar 25, Messages Points Is it possible to heat planks with a household iron?

Also if using the wet method is the plank then glued on wet of let dry in shape and then glued on. See I really know nothing about wooden ships!

It is possible to bend planks with the household item but not successfully and chance of burning is great. The Amati iron comes with a shaping set so you can get great bends. I love their product and it is reasonably priced. Joined Apr 19, Messages 91 Points It does leave the plank a little brittle but the alcohol seem to soften the fibers quickly and it also dries quicker than water. CharlesEdward Guest. I built several one inch PVC pipe sections of various lengths from 18 inches to about 40 inches, capped and sealed one end so that I can fill them with water.

I then place the planks in the tube and let the excess water drain out and then tightly cap the top. I have one 2 inch diameter pipe that is aout 40 inches long that I am soaking alomst all of the Montanes hull planks in water.

I generally leave these soak for days since I only can work on my hobby weekends the planks are soaking all that time. Then the next day I glue that plank in place using the same planking clamps to hold the plank in place until the glue sets. I also use the plank nipper, and I do have the heating tool and shape that GaryM refers to, but I have never been able to get the technique down and I wind up breaking the plank.

Maybe I need to try again with that tool and go slower. I had all of the first layer planks for the OcCre Albatross soaked completely and have since left them out to dry.

Now when I plank that kit with the first layer they do seem to bend easier with the plank nipper and super-glue technique that rdsaplala uses to good effect. I have purchased several sets of these as they do wear out and break but the work well enough.

I included a picture here. The secret to using the iron is to not just heat where you want the bend but to heat the area around it. You can feel the plank slightly bend and you can use a light pressure to continue bending. Then take it of the bending jig and finish by hand and hold until cool. For limewood, it bends very fast. The harder the wood, the more important it is to heat the adjacent area. Thanks Gary, I will indeed try to use it again soon. I just hate to spend money on some tool and NOT use it at all.

I read the instructions but don't remember warming the area around the bend. I will take your advice and instructions to heart and try it this weekend. I wonder where I put that darn thing?

It couldn't be in the tool box could it?? Joined Feb 20, Messages 18 Points 8. I know I will not convince any of you, plank wetters or plank heaters, but on my current model, I do all my bending with my devoted Amati nipper. It is fairly quick, I don't burn or boil my fingers, and I don't spill water over the floor. Also, the terrible "dead cow effect" which happens when mainly first planking planks are glued in place when still wet, is something I don't have to care about.

I send a few pics: on one of them you see the well known tool with a plank ready to be glued in place. The 2 other pics speak for themselves. I wanted the planking to follow the ship's lines and of course they were way too wide and too stiff to allow pretty steep lateral bending. So I cut the planks lengthwise in two with a little jig of my own.

As this part of the ship is under the waterline, I can always choose to paint it off white after filling up the nipper indents. What I did is of course put a sufficient amount of white glue to the side of the planks, lay them down on the hull and sand the joint after removing the excess glue, thus before pinning down the plank.

The idea is one I found on a French forum where a modeller said he used a mix of sanding dust and white glue to fill up any gaps in the planking, rather than wood filler, which never has the right colour. In fact I still have to test with my tube of wood filler: the one I use is exactly the right colour when applied, but turns into a much paler brown when sanded.

Tests will show if it gets dark enough after I apply the wood sealer. Whaler Joined Jan 28, Messages Points It is not hot enough to burn the wood. So, hold one end down at top of can with something else, like the flat edge of a screw driver. Then up down the plank to desired curvature.

The tea-candle only takes a few seconds to heat the top of the tin can. It takes less than a minute to heat and bend the plank. The tin can rests on a piece of wood and is clamped to the workbench. It's cheap, fast, effective. In winter time I use this device to keep my mug of coffee warm in my workshop.

As you can see, it has 2 large inlets and dispersed outlets through small holes up top. These are needed to keep the flame going. I used a large coffee tin. Joined Jan 9, Messages 3, Points Hi all, I use a combination of hot water and steam, I just soak the plank in very hot water about 5min. Chapman designed this Dutch pleasure boat, and it was commonly used for fishing in the 18th century. Read more historical info. It was named by George Washington and the fittings were put together by Paul Revere.

This tall ship was most famously used in the War of and the Civil War. Mantua Royal Caroline Top Pick. Comprehensive instructions included, 7 sheets of plans. Double plank on frame construction. Wooden parts are cut impeccably. Photo etched brass and gilded cast metal. High quality fittings.

It was used for voyages by several members of the royal family through the years. It was also used in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars for fleet reviews. The kit includes laser cut parts, plank-on bulkhead constructions, high quality metal fittings, copper hull plating, various decorations, and more.

Caldercraft HM Yacht Chatham. Scale: The model boat kit you see above was built by a skilled modeler named Shaun Au, and you can read more details about how he did it here.

Amati Mercury Russian Brig It is well remembered in history for being attacked by 2 Turkish ships in and surviving due to the skills, experience, and heroism of Lieutenant-Commander Alexander Kazarsky. Caldercraft HM Mortar Vessel. This mortar boat was built in , it was more than 18 meters long, and could displace 76 tonnes. Mantua HMS Jamaica. Scale: Length: 24 inches, Height: 8 inches This ship was built in Bermuda in Its purpose was to be a cruiser for the West Indian trade companies.

Scale: Length: Length Mantua San Felipe Also Great. When this historic ship went down in , it had several tons of gold aboard. Frequently Asked Questions.

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