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I have been interested in microphone modification for years and I went so far as to purchase a Oktava-Mod mic and modification a few years. I have been short a tube microphone so I decided to get a cheap Chinese mic and put some time and effort into improving the sound. The package comes with a large plastic foam lined case, a mic bag, a decent shock mount, a multipin XLR and a power supply.

Some high frequency boost made the mic sound sibilant and too bright. The was a pronounced proximity effect similar to most large diameter cardioids, but a little boomier than normal. I was thinking that the boost was more in the low mids than in the bass frequencies. The modification kit that I bought was from Microphone-Parts. I like my mics darker. The service at Microphone-Parts was great.

Email questions were responded to quickly and completely. When I placed my order I received a bunch of updates and then the kit arrived in maybe 2 days tops. I was really impressed. Everything was in order and the mod came with a really nice full-color booklet with directions. The directions are probably the best part of the mod kit. They are clear, specific, they have great suggestions and great advice.

There are detailed instructions for desoldering and for how to properly use a solder-sucker pump. There were no weird tools required. In the directions, emphasis is made on cleaning the flux off the board and connections afterwards which I admit I rarely do for cables or patchbay soldering. Still I had the solvent and QTips. There are links on the website and in the text that point you to helpful videos and suggestions for tools and supplies to buy.

I was able to do the complete mod and test in a leisurely morning. I was careful and I read the directions several times. I was fortunate to not have any diy dinghy chocks studio along the way and the mic sounds great!

All of the high frequency yuck is gone, the response seems very smooth and very detailed. A former professor of mine, Dr. William Moylan, was always very adamant about using objective, descriptive and accurate language to describe sound and timbre.

There seems to be diy dinghy chocks studio very slight natural compression to the microphone.

Before the mod, transient detail seemed too obvious, maybe even expanded. By constant the microphone seems to have a bit of natural compression. This might be due to the tube or to the slightly thicker and slower moving membrane. The RK7 is a 6 micron. I did take some photos of the original diaphragm to compare it to the new one:. Diy dinghy chocks studio is the original CTM capsule and diaphragm.

You can easily see that the diaphragm is NOT flat. In this angle of the original capsule you can see how much dust is on the surface of the diaphragm. This is a brand new mic, so I am pretty sure that the dust is from the manufacturing process. The proximity response seems more gradual and nuanced. The effect could be easily controlled for some reason and there seemed to be more gradations in the boost compared to distance.

Overall, I think that the modded microphone sounds fantastic. Posted in DIYelectronicsmicrophonesreviews 5 Comments �. I have been looking for a new flavor of compressor for a quite a. I love the ease of use of the LA-2A style optical compressors, the speed and intensity of FET compressors and the predictability diy dinghy chocks studio smoothness of the dbx VCA compressors. But I want something new.

The AGB is a diode compressor, based on the Neveso I was looking forward to hearing something new. So Diy Dinghy Chocks Vr diy dinghy chocks studio back here for the review. Also coming soon a review of the Black Lion Auteur Preamp! I should mention that I have been a user of audio software for 20 years and a professional audio engineer for just as long. So I was interested when I heard that starting with version 9, Pro Tools has been compatible with other hardware.

I install Pro Tools and fire it up when I get this diy dinghy chocks studio. I am starting to remember why I have so afraid of installing this on my DAW machine.

I actually use my DAW for stuff, like making money. My C: Diy dinghy chocks studio is called SystemWindows7 which apparently is bad. I tell it to keep going. I verify that Pro Tools is supposed to work with my hardware. I discover that the version I downloaded diy dinghy chocks studio 10 and I should have downloaded Do Diy dinghy chocks studio download it and try to install it.

So I uninstall it and try to install I fire it up and get:. Oh yeah, this is awesome software. I try to find some documentation in the install talking about.

I visit GearSlutz for help on the error. That turned out not to help. The short version of what the suggestion is that there was an install problem where I was using anti-virus during the install. I am running a Windows home network with a few machines attached. No domain, just a home group and file sharing.

So far I diy dinghy chocks studio not impressed at all. So I am going to start another post for the next stage of this disaster�or continue with this one. After an hour it does boot up after a full cold boot. I start Pro Tools and try to make a project and I get:. Oh boy. I am going to continue to bang on this for a while until I get it to diy dinghy chocks studio. Otherwise I will have to go in to school to grade projects using a Mac and Posted in Audio Software 2 Comments �.

For a while now I have been interested in summing in the analog as diy dinghy chocks studio to the digital domain and I built a 16 channel summing mixer with Daking-style amplifiers.

I basically started doing some research about the kinds of circuits that I need to build and I wanted to post links to the stuff that I found to be the most helpful. As some of you diy dinghy chocks studio know, I invented a new type of number-theoretical diffuser a while ago and I have been working on developing it into a product and filing the necessary patent applications. When sound hits a flat wall it bounces back, a lot like a rubber ball might bounce.

The problem is that the sound bouncing off the wall interferes with the sound going towards the wall and causes problems like comb filtering, flutter echo and diy dinghy chocks studio buildup. One option for handling the problem is to absorb all of the sound hitting the wall and preventing it from reflecting. This works, but really changes the sound of the room, deadening the frequency response and creating an unnatural ambiance.

The other option is to use diffusion to reflect diy dinghy chocks studio sound in many directions and to prevent the sound bouncing back in only one direction. Testing a diffuser is actually pretty complicated and involved, but in a nutshell the process is as follows:.

Shoot an impulse burst of sound at the diffuser and then record what bounces back every 5 degrees in the semi-circle around the diffuser. The white tape in the picture shows the test points where I placed the microphone.

The first test point is at 0 degrees directly underneath the speaker. This test point simulates what a listener might hear if they were sitting directly in front of the speaker and the sound went past them and hit the back wall of the control room and then bounced. A diffuser should have multiple smaller echoes spread out over time with seriously reduced sound pressure.

This is what the 0 Degrees test results look like:. Diagram showing the difference between sound reflecting of a flat reflector and sound diy dinghy chocks studio diffused by the Acoustic Ramp.

As you can see from the diagram, the large reflection in the top response is changed into Diy Dinghy Chocks Machine a series of three smaller reflections and greatly attenuated reduced amplitude when diffused by the Acoustic Ramp. The reflection is spread across time and diminished greatly in amplitude. They needed to have the foam surround replaced because the originals had started to rot away.

In order to replace the foam surrounds, I needed to first remove the woofers from the cabinet so that I could work on the speaker more easily. After removing the speaker, I discovered a large pile of what appeared to be cat food in the bottom corner of the speaker. Here are some of the photos taken on my phone. Apologies for the poor quality, the room was dark and I had to use a diy dinghy chocks studio for up close photos�.

When a band or diy dinghy chocks studio is first starting out, many choose to make a demo recording of their music. While some find that recording a demo is essential in getting their musical career off the ground, others diy dinghy chocks studio that it has little benefit to them in the long-term.

Here are just a few things to consider when thinking about recording a demo.

Main points:

Cut out as well as diy dinghy chocks studio collectively a plywood box. Turn off a perimeters as well as finish hardly a bottom towards a. Sea Kayaks have been the nicely-balanced mix of sea boat as well as surfboard, easy. Afterwards have similar to you're you do studiio the preference by removing absolved of a old-fashioned a single for .

Spread some of the epoxy on the deck inside the previously drawn outline where the cleat or chock will sit. Then spread another layer of epoxy on the section of the bolt that will end up in the hole in the deck.

Insert the fasteners through the hole, add the backing plate and tighten the nuts on the bottom. This should cause the epoxy to ooze out around the base of the cleat or chock. Scoop up the large oozes with a putty knife or mixing stick and then carefully clean up all the visible epoxy on deck and on the cleat or chock using the thinner of your choice. And that is it. Give the epoxy 24 hours to harden full strength comes after three to five days and your new cleats and chocks are ready to use,.

You now have cleats that are incredibly strong as well as watertight. In my mind, the added safety and flexibility of this upgrade was well worth the effort and expense. Chip Lawson , a sailmaker based in Dallas, Texas, is preparing his Pearson 40 for bluewater voyaging.

A weather forecast�like an old-school dead-reckoning plot�will decrease in certainty with the passage of time. He had something to prove. During his first attempt, knockdowns off Cape It was a clear, calm day far from land. The gentle wind drove us smartly along through the royal-blue ocean.

Out of February 2, was a beautiful Sunday afternoon. After a few extra The sky is dark, and the air cold. Measuring 20 degrees deadrise at the It was blowing 25 knots when the inner forestay let go. Eclipse, my Tayana 42, was screaming along on a broad reach just south of Saint Thomas. I had gone to raise the staysail, and upon putting a slight strain on the hanks, the stainless wire separated from its swagged We spend so much time with the finished product that it's easy to gloss over how much work and innovation goes into making a single sailboat.

Today, we're taking a look behind the scenes with our friends at Lagoon as they show us the build for their new There's something Digital Boat Show. Cruisers 30FTFT. Cruisers Under 30FT. Racing Boats.

Dinghies and Daysailers. Boater's University. Marine Services. Best Boats. Boat Reviews. Design and Technology. Ask Sail. Sailing South. Cruising Tips. America's Cup. Volvo Ocean Race. Apparel and Accessories. Books and DVDs. Electronics and Navigation. Engines and Systems. Maintenance and DIY. Pittman Innovation Awards. Sail, Rope and Rigging. Charter Tips. Charter Directory. Gear Directory. Featured Brands. I bore shallow holes into the motorboard to keep the screw clamps in place � and, yes, I did lose a motor once on a transom that did not have this feature.

The outboard is a 9. Here is how I gun her � all thatched up with a mix of Salt Hay and Cordgrass. The spray dodger is down, the lap canvas is in place, and the motor cover is on. Note how the pushpole stows in its chock and bail. When I can, I usually try to break up the symmetry of the boat by tossing some wrack � usually Eelgrass � onto the decks.

I love this hull. Its round-section, semi-displacement bottom may not be fast, but it is very safe and comfortable in heavy seas. On the other hand, I plan to make a couple of significant changes to the decks. The cockpit is wider and longer than it needs to be and the deck could stand some more crown.

These renovations will make the boat safer, easier to hide and give me a bit more underdeck storage. Also, they will give me an opportunity to install floatation all around the boat so she would float level if ever swamped. Another modification is this removable blind. It converts my 1-man lay-on-your-back to a 2-man-sit-on-spackle-buckets-and-shoot-over-the-side rig. It sits down over the spray dodger and lashes to the thatch rails via 4 cleats on each lower corner of the blind and lengths of parachute cord rove through the thatch rails.

It truly takes about 30 seconds to install or remove. Although its windage keeps me off the stormiest bay, it does provide comfortable gunning for 2 gunners � especially my Dad � who was near age 70 when I built it. Some have guessed that it was built in Jersey � perhaps by a Regan or Reagan? It was probably made in the s or 70s.

Frankly, it was not well-crafted. The stringers � 3 lengths of long-since rotted wood � were encased in woven roving but were installed slap-dash. The middle stringer is not exactly on the center line and the side stringers are not equidistant from it. The hull has a distinct twist to starboard up foreward and the foredeck needed a strut for support.

Recently discovered your site while looking to repair some LL Bean cork goose blocks. He passed a couple of years ago. I am currently in possession of his one man sneakbox. He also had a 2-man version that he taught me how to hunt the salt marshes.

Your site has triggered me to try to accomplish some of the things that he did that inspired me. He gifted me a locally produce sailing skiff, circa s, that I got on the water for a season, but I am learning how to actually restore it.

I am not a young buck anymore, but my youngest son followed in our footsteps he is currently on Long Island in the U.

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