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But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar. And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar.

The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want. If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc.

But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel.

You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make.

Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions.

Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified. Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes.

Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt. However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape.

In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty. The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel.

About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight. Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating.

The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull. The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides. As shown before, Fig. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional.

If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best. However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities. Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat.

However, if the protruding flange is too pronounced, there may be a tendency to hang up on rocks in certain boats such as whitewater boats, or snag debris and catch pilings in other types of boats depending on their use.

Otherwise, round bar bends around frames easily and gives a well-defined boundary to work to when fitting side and bottom plates. A temporary chine backing member may help in this regard. In this case the bottom is fitted first and cut with care along the chine line a temporary Free Aluminum Boat Building Plans 30 backing member may aid in fitting.

Then topsides are installed, letting the edge overhang the junction a distance as required to form the spray deflector flat. While a good design, this configuration also takes care to assure fair lines. As mentioned, on the modern aluminum hull, most plating is reinforced by longitudinals. While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available.

These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate. Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed. When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type. One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig.

This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves. Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating. Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut. This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent.

A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs.

These can later be bent down slightly if required for best performance and then bracketed to the transom once an optimum position has been found. Transom thickness technically need be no more than that of the side or bottom plating. Additional thickness may be required � at least in the area of the cut-out � either through the use of doublers or thick inserts.

A thicker insert is preferable at a cutout to avoid the need to seal joints between doublers by welding. Where thin plating meets thicker plating, bevel the thicker edge at a slope equal to at least three times the thickness of the thinner plate see Fig.

If you know the boat design name, use our Alphabetical Design Index. Design Characteristics � Boat drawing with all parts listed. Order a Hard-copy of the Catalog. Click here for more information about our plans and kits.

I am now getting ready to outfit the interior, build the helm, [�]. Choose one of the categories below, click on a boat for the listing of items available plus more info and photos. Simple as that� get started today! If you know the boat design name, use our Alphabetical Design Index Design Characteristics � Boat drawing with all parts listed.

Order a Hard-copy of the Catalog Click here for more information about our plans and kits. This version uses several layers This is a steel multi-chine motor barge for use in the waters of the UK and Europe, crossing the Channel and exploring the rivers and canals of the European mainland.

She has a section of parallel middle-body which means that she can be stretched. These plans are for the steelwork only of a We can also send details for the rudder engine beds etc for the 45' version as guidance for Visit the Wavedancer website Principal dimensions: L.

Sloop rigged for easy handling. Draft 3' 8". Plans include 4 sheets and suggested bill of Free Aluminum Boat Building Plans Reddit materials. Displacement 5, Ibs The Ruby 19 is based on our Ruby 22 double chine plywood steam launch.

In the case of the Ruby 19 a client wanted a shorter version of the 22 to be built in steel which meant widening and deepening her to take the steel weight. Having produced the The hull plating is 3mm over 4x75mm frames Includes lines, arrangements, outboard profile, construction drawings, table of offsets, scantlings, etc.

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