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Dinghy Launching Trolley - Trollies for small boats from Trident UK

Richard Drabble explains how he built a nesting Eastport How to build a dinghy launching trolley game dinghy as a wedding gift for his daughter. In the days before inflatable dinghies it was common to have a hard dinghy, to be left on the mooring or hoisted onto the foredeck of your yacht, or atop the main deck forward of the cockpit. There were many designs. Laknching particularly attractive one was the 7ft 9in Humble Bee, which could be built in marine ply planking for lightness and stiffness and indeed can still be built using available plans.

While living in Canada I founded a boatbuilding academy as my night job, where we used plans for various small boats how to build a dinghy launching trolley game within Canada and the USA. Another small boat which caught my gamf was the Eastport Pram. This 7ft 9in dinghy had pretty yet practical lines as a rowing yacht tender, and could also be sailed with a standing lug rig or motored with an electric or petrol outboard up to 2hp.

Such a design could be brought to a conventional sharp bow. However, this would reduce its stability and buoyancy, hence less load carrying for the given length, so the cut-off or pram bow shape is both practical and rather a quirky, attractive feature. I noticed there was a nesting dinghy version, which entails building the launchinh and then cutting it into two how to build a dinghy launching trolley game so that one part cleverly stows away within the.

I have worked in Russia too and I thought they had this patent with their nesting dolls, but apparently it also works well with dinghies! My long-suffering wife was very accommodating, having to live in a dusty house all winter and seat guests at the kitchen table.

It might have had something to do with it being a wedding tro,ley for our daughter Jocelyn and husband Henry, both sailors who live in Cowes on the Isle of Wight. Fully rigged, Glad Rooster took pride of place suspended from the rafters in the wedding barn. The advent of epoxy resins has revolutionised wooden boatbuilding, and so this boat is built as a composite in marine plywood, glassfibre and epoxy.

This makes it possible to build a lighter yet stronger, stiffer and more durable boat. The sandwich construction is then sealed with clear epoxy before varnishing and painting.

The epoxy bonded lapstrake planking is an advantageous hybrid between clinker and carvel, being both strong and stiff. The bow, transom and internal connecting bulkheads are epoxy laminated in 9mm marine ply, so 18mm total thickness for strength.

A lot gsme wire stitching is involved to assemble the boat on a gaame surface, usually on carefully levelled building trestles.

After epoxy bonding of the seams, the stitches are removed and work proceeds with fitting the mahogany gunwales and the glassfibre-epoxy strengthening of the sole.

The seat supports are then built in. You will have pre-assembled the two-piece internal connecting bulkheads with a sacrificial cardboard spacer in between, so that you can eventually cut the boat into two parts with a carefully chosen saw, steady nerves and a Mk 1 eyeball.

There are six machine bolts with winged nuts used to connect the two parts of the boat together, sandwiched between a neoprene waterproof gasket. The cut line was first proved with a row of 1mm drill holes later filled and fairedhod connected by a pencil line. Using a donghy Japanese saw, a steady hand and a good Mk 1 eyeball, the cut was carefully executed.

A stiff whisky was then required to settle the nerves, as the last act of that day! I spent several days outside on mild bbuild so as lqunching minimise creating dust inside.

This began with machine sanding and progressed to hand sanding for the fine finish, ready for clear epoxy coating. A dust mask, eye and ear protection is compulsory! Thereafter, the entire boat, seats, foils and spars have to be prepared for painting by light sanding the epoxy coating with grade ready for varnish and grade ready for trollet primer on the outside of the hull.

I gaame choose to use good quality 3M wet and dry paper, for wet sanding, as this is more effective, more user friendly and in addition it how to build a dinghy launching trolley game the water soluble surface amines produced by epoxy during the curing gme. I researched the paint options thoroughly and settled on Epifanes, who are technically most helpful and whose prices are competitive.

I chose to use their two-component polyurethane coatings, both for the biild and the hull paint. These are easy to apply with a roller and tip-off using a fine brush or foam brush. They also allow one coat each day without sanding, applied sequentially each day for four or five days so four or five coats hod, so that there is a chemical bond between the coats.

The two-component varnishes and paints deliver a harder, more durable finish, which should greatly exceed the performance of single component paints. This is because the full trolely has a better UV resistance than satin varnish, so as to protect the underlying epoxy clearcoat, whilst the satin finish gives a lovely non-dazzle finish where you can actually see the wood grain.

Lastly, a non-slip coat of satin finish varnish was applied over the sole tread areas using Epifanes micro-beads mixed into the varnish. This was then over-coated once to finish the job. With such two-component paints it is essential how to build a dinghy launching trolley game ventilate your workroom thoroughly and wear a passive respirator mask to protect yourself against breathing paint solvents.

I estimate that the total build time launchong this tender, including painting, was about hours, but I was not in a hurry and this was spread out over five winter months.

I did come across some aspects of the launchimg, build and materials that I took issue with, and have dijghy these thoughts back to the supplier.

For example, the bulkhead design required ugly, oversized epoxy fillets between the bulkheads and the lapstrake planking, and I discarded the gasket material in favour of something more suitable. Installing both a hoa outwale and an inwale, makes handling of the boat easier, and I also strengthened the mast foot, adding an oak mast retention peg.

A high quality Wichard foldable D-ring was through-bolted low down on the how to build a dinghy launching trolley game bulkhead as an effective towing point from a yacht, directional stability being aided by the hull skeg, which also provides great stability for rowing and sailing.

Holes were added for cargo straps. It uses rust-free solid tyre wheels and stainless steel shouldered bolts as axles. How to build a dinghy launching trolley game padding?

Best quality Axminster! This was my own design. It involves how to build a dinghy launching trolley game laminated cheeks � so 36mm total thickness, which is dihghy for heavy weather gybing! This was epoxy glued onto the laujching slot. The roller bearing block was mounted by multiple threading 3mm cord through a short length of 15mm radiator hose! The forward joint bulkhead carries a glued-on waterproof gasket of 8mm neoprene � actually an Aldi exercise mat.

This squeezes down into a gap of 4mm once the six wing nuts are tightened, making a waterproof connection and a nice firm join between the two halves of the tender. The final assembled gap between the forward and aft halves along the hull planking, is just 1mm � the exact thickness of the Japanese saw used to make the cut.

The boat is trollley transported on a yacht while nested, strapped down ahead of the mast. Or by car with the two halves assembled, upside down on roof bars, which works well on most medium to large sized cars.

This prevents the dnighy parts from jostling about on bumpy trllley and chafing all that beautiful paintwork. Extra how to build a dinghy launching trolley game roof bars are required to accommodate ggame 4ft beam, but these are reasonably priced and will fit your existing roof bar feet.

And we agme a thick stainless steel security cable so as to help retain ownership! Is it worth it compared to a rubber dinghy? The kit seems expensive and it could be built for less by sourcing your own materials. However, it made a nice winter project, and is a very special boat with multiple uses. It looks classic and simply beautiful. There was only a light breeze, but sufficient to see that the tender sails well with two adults aboard and that it will be pretty nimble sailed as a single-hander!

This useful little dinghy will have multiple uses for trips across the laaunching, the lake or up the river, as a yacht tender, for rowing, sailing, motoring, fishing and.

With its light weight at about 30kg it will be easy to handle and with its nesting design it will be handy to stow. And one day our grandchildren-to-be will alunching to row, sail and mess about in gmae in this excellent little dinghy.

Assemble the laminated bulkheads from top bow, doubled-up centre bulkheads with daggerboard case and launchhing wing-nuts under trial-fit, one temporary building frame, transom. Stitch-in the bulkheads and bow section using copper wire. Gake extinguishers are there to provide weight to keep the curvature of the keel! The copper wire stitching is completed.

Note the temporary frame to be removed later. Invert the tender and level it carefully so as to remove any twist, ready to epoxy glue the seams.

Modify the temporary frame rtolley that inner gunwale can be epoxy glued ahead of frame removal. No seats yet visible! The glassfibre cloth is ready for roller-application of epoxy resin. Tape off the edges with masking tape. Trial-fit the seats so that the seat supports can be glass-epoxy fixed in the right position.

Epoxy glue the skeg and rubbing strips to the glassfibre epoxy-stiffened sole How To Build A Dinghy Sailboat Jacket then cut the boat into two pieces. Epoxy coat the entire boat. Fine sand ready for varnish and paint. Apply varnish internally � this shows the stern half. Double-up the how to build a dinghy launching trolley game bulkhead and secure with bolts and wing-nuts.

These are the brass rowlocks and two sets of mountings for two rowing positions. Vame the two hull halves. Note the 4mm thick spacers on the connecting bulkhead to control the joint stiffness and dimensions when bolted.

The bow half should now nest neatly inside the stern half. Note the aft seat is removed for nesting. Time to trial-rig the sail. This one was provided by Goacher Sails. The sail number refers to the 25th May, gmae wedding day! Skip to content �. Home Practical Projects. TAGS: In the workshop woodwork.

Instantly launchable, it would be hard-wearing, characterful and unlikely to let you. Trolley painted and assembled.

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As of Eighth month 2010, generally in farming areas. Being an consultant artist, a energy. A Egyptians had the How To Build A Dinghy Sailboat Numbers tough time creation as well as sailing boats. Thanks.

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Hello everybody! I've obviously had a bang on the head, and got my self a sailing dinghy! As much as I dont like getting unneccesserily wet, I know I'm going to gt a bit damp on a Wayfarer! Amyway, the on I've just got, is on a mild steel road trailer which has seen better days. I have seen trailers which has a lighter weight launching trolley 'piggy back'?? I dont suppose anybody has one, and if so, perhaps photograph it, or maybe sketch some plans and measurements so I can get one knocked up?

I'll be really appreaciative if anybody can help me out. Living in hope, many thanks, Pedro. Joined 6 May Messages 34, Location up on the moors. Searush New member. Joined 14 Oct Messages 26, Location - up to my neck in it. Lakesailor New member. Wayfarers are heavy boats so it's essential to get the support in the right place on launch trolleys. If it's wrong you can damage the hull when towing potholes, sleeping policemen etc.

Also if the boat fills with rainwater the hull can break around the support pads if in the wrong place. You need to do the research.

Thanks everybody for your comments. I've had a look on ebay and have then in my watching list. I've done a bit of sailing hobi-cats in the Bahamas never tipped one over! I've read many comments about them being a little on the heavy side, so i'm aware that the trailer needs to be substantial.

I'll keep her covered when not in use to keep the rain out anyway. One idea that did come to mind, was to see if there was any outside the yacht club, where I could have a look at.

Thanks again for your help I'll let you know how I get on! Joined 10 Jul Messages 2, Location ,home Portchester. A wise choice of dinghy! Should you find trailer and combi trolley you would be advised to have a second jockey wheel for the trolley, this makes it a reasonable load for launching, and when wheel is removed for trailing its tube fits onto a spigot to secure to the trailer itself.

The trolley pads should be at least 6" wide and of a carpet surface to help slide into the water and spread the load. My original trailer had solid 8" long plastic rollers to assist loading the trolley and boat for trailing home.

VicS Well-known member. Joined 13 Jul Messages 45, PM sent. Last edited: 9 Sep Lakesailor said:. Whilst I agree with you the manufacturers seem undecided. Trident have a single roller and a forward pad where as Speed Sails don't even support the keel aft at all. Except a different page on West Mersea's site shows a rollered version.

Boat Trailers seem to have a similar trolley. Kukri Well-known member. Sometimes the Philippines. I think I shall stick to my Firefly and Sovereign Lightweight combi trailer. It's a trade off between stability of boat and weight of boat and trolley!

Joined 16 May Messages 42, Some of those look distinctly dodgy. The advice from the UK association and published on the "Wayfarer Institute of Technology" is clear that the weight should be taken on the keel.

Trying to support the boat at the bilges is likely to cause the hull to flex locally which can damage or detach the floorboard support rails.

I can't recall the specific advice about where the keel supports are best located fore and aft, although I always felt that our trailer would have been better with some support further back. I suppose the strongest points would be at the front bulkhead, and directly under the thwart.

Your earlier point about water is well made as well. Even sitting on the best designed trailer you don't want the weight of a boat full of water. Leaving the bailers if fitted open is a good idea. Firstly, the keel on a dinghy like a Wayfarer is not an immensely strong structure like on a yacht, it is a relatively light fabrication of wood or GRP Therefore it is not really suitable for taking the whole weight of the boat in a point load.

It is better to support the boat across the whole width of the floor, spreading the load on foam or other compliant How To Build A Dinghy Launching Trolley For supports. A full width cradle that fits the hull is good. For my 13ft clinker dinghy I modified a jetski trailer with rollers under the keel and flexible bunks at either side which deformed to take the curve of the bilge.

I also replaced the suspension units with the lightest rated one at Kgs the pair. Most of this project is welded together, with the "half-way" point, being held together by a bolt. A,B,C and D I worked out for my particular project - I have not yet fully tested this trailer, So I will hold fire on stating what the measurements are until I know it works!

For this step I used the trusty angle grinder - Each section I cut in a clamp, and for the two lengths coming from the axle end, I cut at the same time to ensure uniformity. For the next step I welded the small flat section of steel to the end of the bar that is in the middle of the two that come from the axle end.

I welded this to the "top" pf the section, so that it was self locking when opened up. I have overlapped the two folding sections by 15 cm. I have made allowances for a washer to fit between each piece.

The axle end of this piece, I have welded a steel plate to the top of both pieces, spanning the gap, and through this a bolt will attach to the axle section for more portability. I am in the process of measuring a second support bar that goes nearly where the piviot point is, to provide more support to the boat more on that when I figure it out..

After this is all complete - Check all parts for free play, attach the previously mentioned pipe insulation to anything that touches the How To Build A Dinghy Launching Trolley Free boat, and give a generous lick of tape to secure it in place. I will be adding an eyelet soon to the drag handle, and possibly a front wheel to aid in maneuverability! Pictures will be updated as soon as the weather stops being awful, so I can actually open it all up and take some outside!

Introduction: Dinghy Trolley. If you hurt yourself, its your fault for being stupid, not mine : So without further ado - please hit next for parts required PPE kit to keep you in one piece during the process Several cups of tea!

Optional but highly recommended Parts: 4 x 2 meter lengths of 25mm steel tubing 2 x pneumatic tires mm diameter Pipe insulation Gorilla tape or other similar type tape 1 x 8mmx50 bolts for folding part 1 x any length of steel pipe, of the correct diameter to fit in your tires 8 x washers 1 x flat steel piece approx 1 inch width by 5 inches length by 2mm thick Steel varnish paint.

I cannot provide anyone with a "go-to" set of measurements as it depends on numerous factors, namely: Material you are using what you are transporting How much money you have How much time you have How long you want it to last etc I opted for a "T" shape dolly, as i could make it fold-able for easier transport - your mileage may vary I then cut the other end that comes from the middle, to the front of the boat to size.

After this - Using the off-cuts from the 2 meter sections, I cut the support braces to size. Using more off-cuts, cut the end bar with handle and the hull support to size picture to come soon.

Again, more pictures to come soon.

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