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Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Ballpark cost of 16' or 20' Lumberyard Skiff hull materials? I'm in the beginning stages of starting to think about possibly maybe one day in the foreseeable future perhaps starting a 16' or 20' Lumberyard Skiff.
I've been peeking around the old inter-webs at some of the simpler plywood boat designs and the Lumberyard Skiff really stands out to me as a good-looking boat and a design perfectly suited for my needs. Simple, quick build time, light, adaptable for various uses, able to be towed behind a Jeep Wrangler I get that the construction materials are where one can spend a little or a lot.
I'm not looking to build a family heirloom here, or win a boat show. I'm just looking for a way back on the water and to get my feet wet in wooden boat-building, something I've always been fascinated by. I live in Athens, GA and want to locally source everything to the fullest extent possible to cut costs, so fancy marine-grade material is likely out.
I'm currently leaning towards using plain lumberyard wood as in the original design of the boat and the original glued design, not epoxy or fiberglass. I'm not worried about power or trailer costs, I have or have access to any tools that I need, and I'm comfortable working with wood. Does this sound remotely correct, or I am I way off somewhere?
Thanks for any replies, again, this is a maybe, possibly, probably not, but you never know project. If a trailer and power pop up for cheap, I may just leap in. Re: Ballpark cost of 16' or 20' Lumberyard Skiff hull materials? The best glue there is. Originally Posted by dbrown. Posts 1, I would look for something a little harder than spruce for the stem and stern posts. Doug fir is available at the box stores here I am not sure what is available where you are.
My brother uses a LYS for a tender for his lobster boat and gets about 10 years out of them. They are far from babied but do get a coat of paint every few years. His have no epoxy and I believe the rub rails and shoes are just construction spruce. Originally Posted by Dr. I'm torn on that issue. It's a slippery slope, if I use epoxy, then why not use better grade ply, then etc, etc.
Not saying I won't do it, but the general idea of the project is a quick and dirty build just to gain some experience and get back on the water. From what I'm reading, the construction grade materials boats seem to be lasting 10 years or more, and I'm fine with that quality.
Though, I have never worked with epoxy, so that might be a good learning experience for me. Originally Posted by Hunky Dory. I say go for it. I built a PDRacer 4 years ago and used Titebond 3 for half and epoxy for other half and to be honest, I don't remember which was what.
The boat is still solid. Epoxy isn't the only glue that works but it's all I've used lately. Originally Posted by VictorBravo. I've got the plans which include a list of materials. The 20 foot is significantly larger. Plus the increase in other lumber. I don't know if you can find decent enough void-free ACX these days to take the serious bending at the bow. I'm still thinking of building one after I get done with my current project.
If you go with MDO or other marine plywoods, you could avoid the fiberglass. Spokaloo built one with MDO and it looks like it is holding up real well--but he did have one panel blow out in the bending phase. I think you might have even more trouble with ACX.
One thing to consider when using Titebond 3 is that the fit quality of parts needs to be much more exact than when using epoxy. Epoxy's gap filling nature helps to compensate for lesser amateur joinery, but it is still not a license to do shoddy work. Everything changes. Everything is connected. Pay attention. We use Sikaflex for all joints below water line and Titebond for rails,quarter knees ect.
After building 12 boats with middle school kids we have had non leak. Had no idea Sikaflex was a whole line of products. Which one is used for boat glue? Join Date Oct Location dfw Posts 1, I believe we are using Sika. What all they said It's all true.
Fir for the posts. MDO is awesome stuff if you can get it. It blew up when I bent it, but that's probably partly my fault. Easily recovered from. It worked. I use it all the time, and as long as it is mechanically backed, it's been fantastic. Gap filler, good bonding, and watertight. It's been below the waterline for 5 years, the only water in the boat is rain. Watch out for sand paper, tape, masking, all that little stuff adds up. I live north of ROME and have built 5 boats of the work boat finish, they all were smaller than yours 14ft long.
The boat you want is a bigger model than mine. I go to lumber yard and buy the bc plywood put the good side were you want, I put a good coat of epoxy on outside, I use 10oz fiberglass on bottom and lap it up 2" on sides and all joints. I also use 3m for seams with a gap on inside. Some don't like it but I do! I don't know what you will do with 20ft boat, a 16ft would do anything you will need, any lake close to you would be good with 16FT. Lot more work and cost in 20ft boat.
I also use house paint on my boats no problem. My boats are 5 years old now and no problems yet. I concur with most of the above but I would mention that at HD in my neighborhood, the cost per ounce of is about the same as epoxy. I like Spokaloo's recommendation. And he has the boat to show it. Thanks in advance. I really appreciate all of you for the replies and the good information posted on this thread. That's why I like this forum, even as an observer, I noticed that when questions are asked, good information is given.
I wouldn't hit the ol' subscribe button quite yet, as I'm in the beginning maybe possibly if perhaps information gathering stage right now, and you folks have given me some good information. Sailboat racing, not power In my youth, I spent many a summer doing frame and trim carpentry for a contractor uncle. That's why I'm not scared of "making sawdust". Those summers have have paid dividends over the years in both being able to do my own repairs and look at something and tell if the builder knew what they were doing or not.
As far as why a 20' vs 16', in my years of messing about in boats, I've never been in a situation where I wanted less boat. Again, thanks all, I'll certainly keep everyone updated should this dream become a reality. Sorry to be late, but when I saw this I was on the road and had no access to my build file. I opted to sheath in fiberglass inside and out, so add another or so for fiberglass, resin and applicators. I found a 25 horse 2 cycle Mercury for power Good luck on your build.
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