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Build Boat Wood | plans for canal boat A living museum where you can rent a boat, learn to sail, or volunteer. The Center for Wooden Boats brings a diverse community together to experience the joys of sailing, boat building, and Pacific Northwest small craft heritage. Boats built of this wood have been known to last for centuries. It is characteristically a very heavy and hard wood with dense fibers. It is naturally a light gray or tan which bleaches out to almost a white color on exposure to the sun and salt water. Comitti boats, while crafted in wood, are as modern as any fiberglass boat. It features a MerCruiser L MPI fuel injected V-8 engine mated to a Bravo 3 duo-prop drive, which gives it enhanced maneuverability. The construction is laminated wood and epoxy for exceptional durability.
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So which is best, aluminum or fibreglass? Brace yourself. It depends on what you want to do. As a 30 year aluminum boat owner, I love the material. And if Phyllis and I were planning to go to seriously hazardous places as we have in the past , aluminum would be our only choice. But on the other hand, aluminum is a bitch to keep paint on, an expensive bitch. Prepping and painting the deck and cabin of an aluminum boat to the yacht standard that many owners want and want to maintain, will, if done right Wooden Boat Construction Plans 9th by professionals, cost as much or more than painting an entire fibreglass boat.

The point being that if you are considering aluminum, you need to do as I do: take your glasses off when you see the paint bubbling. Or, better yet, seriously embrace the industrial look and have no paint on deck or hull, other than non-skid.

Also, although there is no question that most of the horror stories you hear about aluminum are just that�stories�the material does require caring for, including closely supervising anyone who works on the boat. Most boatyard professionals are dangerously ignorant about aluminum and many will make that worse by not appreciating their own ignorance. So that leaves fibreglass. On the other hand, the good news is that said aluminum boat care is not hard, and not magic. See Further Reading for our complete guide.

Feel free to disagree and tell me why steel is great, but be realistic. And please keep in mind that we have a lot of readers who do not have a lot of boat ownership experience. So if you blow sunshine about the issues with steel boats, particularly old steel boats, you may make yourself feel better, but you may also tip someone into a life altering decision with substantial negative consequences. Not something any of us need on our conscience.

Learn About Membership. John was born and brought up in Bermuda and started sailing as a child, racing locally and offshore before turning to cruising. He has skippered a series of voyages in the North Atlantic , the majority of which have been to the high latitudes. About New Books Topics. Menu About New Books Topics. Cruisers anchored at Green Turtle Cay, Bahamas. As usual, the answer is the oh so annoying: it depends on what we plan to do with the boat.

Old wooden boats can destroy huge amounts of money and time, and that goes treble for big old wooden boats. Wood can work, but it takes a lot of work, skill, and dedication. Still not convinced? Most every boatyard has a steel boat sitting in some far corner. The owner of this boat has been working on her part time for at least a three years, and has had her in the water for a couple of months.

He seems to be happy with this mix of work and play and his boat. But he is made of tougher stuff than me�and probably you.

But be careful�really, really careful. And know that you have consigned yourself to a heavy maintenance burden for as long as you Boat Hull Construction Methods Education own the boat, as well as taking on a boat with a resale value that could easily go to near zero.

There is simply no other material that can match the combination of strength-to-weight ratio, impact survivability, stiffness, and keeping those characteristics for decades, all without the horrible maintenance load of steel. This is probably the reason that by far the majority of experienced high latitude sailors that we have encountered over the years have aluminum boats.

And you may be able to buy a good used Garcia or Ovni for much less. So, to wrap this up, when buying a second-hand boat, good old frozen snot is the baseline and aluminum the ultimate, but with caveats. To help support the hull, lateral stringers are installed inside the frames. The skin of the hull consists of a series of planks fastened to the outside of the frames.

These planks may be laid Wooden Boat For Sale South Australia 2019 on the frame with their edges slightly overlapping, which is known as clinker, or lapstrake, construction. This is often done with smaller boats, but hardly ever with larger boats, as the many ridges formed where the planks overlap greatly increases wetted surface area.

Alternatively, planks can be laid on the frame edge to edge, creating a fair, smooth surface, which is known as carvel construction. Open seams on a carvel hull awaiting caulking.

Note the tufts of cotton hanging out where caulking is underway Photo courtesy of Rockport Marine. The deck of the boat, meanwhile, is supported by a series of transverse deck beams, the ends of which are fastened to lateral shelves installed along the inside of the hull at the top of the frames.

Traditionally, the deck consists of planking fastened to the deck beams with all seams, again, carefully caulked. Another common way to seal decks, often used on yachts, is to cover the planking with painted canvas. These days, however, many wood decks are simply good-quality marine plywood sealed with epoxy. Even from this abbreviated description it should be clear this is a labor-intensive way to build a boat.

Much skill is also required. Just selecting wood to build with is an art, as there are numerous criteria to meet. The best wood should be cut only in winter to minimize the retention of moisture and microorganisms.

It should then be air-dried in a climate-controlled environment for as long as possible�many months at a minimum. The lumber should also be carefully milled to produce planks and pieces with the wood grain properly aligned to carry anticipated loads in the boat. Even if you use the best fasteners silicon bronze screws and bolts are preferred, though Monel is technically superior what ultimately limits the strength of a plank-on-frame boat is not the wood it is made from, but the fasteners holding it together.

This weakness manifests itself in various ways. First, because they are made from many different pieces, and in particular because so many plank seams are permanently submerged, plank-on-frame boats are apt to leak. Many are continually taking on water when afloat, and normally the only variable is the rate at which water is coming aboard. Invariably this increases when conditions get worse. I once sailed across the North Atlantic aboard a plank-on-frame schooner�one time we almost sank; the other time we did though, fortunately, this was in a river on the other side.

Plank-on-frame boats also often have deck leaks. The problem here is that wood in the deck is constantly swelling and shrinking as it gets wet and dries out. If the deck has open seams, all this expanding and contracting is apt to create gaps somewhere. Even with painted canvas covering the seams, or with a solid plywood deck sealed in epoxy, there are again many fasteners securing hardware, each offering a potential route for water intrusion. Other structures sprouting from the deck�deckhouses, hatches, raised gunwales, etc.

World-famous small-boat cruiser Larry Pardey waters the deck of his boat, Taleisin , to keep the planks swollen tight. Larry is a master boatwright he built Taleisin himself and maintains his boats scrupulously. Finally, plank-on-frame boats can be a bear to maintain. All that wood, above the water and below, needs to be either painted or varnished on a regular basis. Leaks must be policed and stanched if possible.

Moist areas in the structure must be sought out, constantly monitored for rot, and replaced if the rot gets out of hand. Most, however, like Moitessier, would much prefer to just go sailing. Plank-on-frame boats still have a strong cult following and a relatively large number of older wooden yachts are sailed and maintained by devoted owners.

But the most exciting wooden boatbuilding these days is done with composite wood-epoxy construction. The key ingredient is modern epoxy, which is not only a tenacious adhesive, but is also highly elastic and nearly impermeable to water. Epoxy also protects the wood from hungry creatures that want to eat it. Furthermore, a wood-epoxy hull forms a one-piece monocoque structure that cannot leak unless punctured.

In most cases, to improve abrasion and impact resistance, the hull and deck are also sheathed in one or more layers of fiberglass cloth. The result is a boat with many of the virtues of fiberglass, with the added benefits of built-in insulation, plus all the fuzzy romantic feelings inspired by a genuine wood finish.

There are many ways to construct a wood-epoxy boat. One could, for example, build a wood-epoxy plank-on-frame vessel, but this would be labor intensive and the boat would be needlessly heavy and thick. In practice, there are three basic approaches�strip-plank construction, sheet plywood construction, and so-called cold-molded construction.

Each has many variations, and to some extent different techniques can be combined in a single hull. In a simple strip-plank hull the frame is an important part of the structure, and the strip planks, which are narrow�with a square section shape, are both attached to the frame and edge-nailed to each other. Boats were often built like this in the traditional manner and are still built without being encapsulated in epoxy. In more modern variations, there is more reliance on epoxy, fiberglass sheathing, and internal accommodations structures including bulkheads to support the hull, with framing reduced to a minimum.

Some of these vessels are essentially fiberglass boats with solid wood cores. Strip-planked wood-epoxy hulls are probably the most common type built today, as they are generally the most cost effective.

Sheet plywood construction is the least common type, at least as far as larger sailboats go. Mostly this technique is used for smaller boats like dinghies, skiffs, and daysailers. The one major exception are Wharram catamarans, Wood Boat Hull Construction Group Limited which are usually built of plywood, and may or may not be coated in epoxy.

In a plywood boat of any size, a substantial amount of framing is needed, but construction otherwise is relatively simple and fast, as large sheets of plywood can be set in place more easily and quickly than many narrow planks.

Plywood construction does limit design options. Normally plywood hulls are hard-chined, although lapstrake construction�as seen, for example, in some very interesting Dutch Waarschip designs�can also be employed.

The third major variation, cold-molded construction, is more properly described as diagonal-veneer construction. Here the hull is composed of several layers of thin wood veneers that are laid up on a diagonal bias over light framing or a jig.

The layers of veneer are oriented at right angles to each other and are glued together and stapled in place until the epoxy sets up. Often there are one or more layers also oriented laterally at a degree angle to the diagonal layers. By laminating thin sheets of unidirectional veneer atop one another like this, a light monocoque structure that is strong in multiple directions can be created.

These cold-molded boats are, generally speaking, the lightest of wood boats, but this method of wood construction is also by far the most labor intensive.

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