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Is there the automechanic on-site to have repairs?
That detail will be covered in the accompanying construction guide. As with most of our boats, we strongly recomend getting video series that accompanies this boat. For this boat it is the Rob Roy series. Any part of the build process which is not detailed in the video series is detailed in the plans and included build booklet. The Full Size plans and patterns are included in the base price and shipping in the U. Please choose below from our recomended options.
Item added to cart. Journals Articles. Adirondack Guide Boat Plans. A stretcher assembly below and inside of the boat is temporarily attached with clamps and then screws to keep the ribs properly placed.
Once the strips are attached to the ribs the stretcher is no longer needed and will be removed. A laminated stem is attached to each end of the boat. The first strip is attached.
This particular hull was assembled at the National Boat Show in the span of 9 days. One side of the boat is partially planked. The hull is almost completely planked. After the show, It was then returned to our shop where the work was completed. With the hull complete we begin scraping and sanding.
And more sanding. Screw holds filled and sanded. Cut away the excess to define the rabbit line. Now clamp the plank back onto the hull and fit the rabbit end into the rabbit. The easiest way to get a tight fit of the plank into the rabbit is to use a sanding block. Keep sanding away to high spots until you get a nice tight fit. This enables you can take the plank off and put it back on again without having to fit it each time you put it back.
When you drill the holes for the screws keep the drill perpendicular to the rib, and not the hull. The tendency is to drill parallel to the hull surface which, at the higher numbered ribs, causes the drill bit to come out the side of the rib. Take the plank off the hull and lightly sand both sides of it. I use grit paper and palm sander. Now the fun begins! Cutting the feather edge to the plank is a bit like chewing gum and patting your head at the same time.
With some practice it becomes second nature. Clamp the plank down to the bed of your work bench with the edge of the plank running. Two adjustable bench dogs hold the plank in position. Using a low angle block plane begin removing material by walking down the plank with the plane held at an angle to the plank.
Planing the feather lap. Be most careful of the front edge! If you remove too much from the front edge it becomes ragged and will not fit well to its adjacent plank. To help determine how close you are to the back edge it is to useful to draw some lines across the lap from the back edge towards the front.
These are removed as you plane away the excess and tell you how close you are to the back edge. Start with the plane blade set to remove a thick shaving. As you get closer to finishing the lap back off and take thinner shavings. As I get quite close to finishing the lap I switch to a cabinet scraper. This gives excellent control over the amount being removed and will also remove any rounding of the lap.
You need not go down to a total feather lap. This thickness can be dealt with once the plank is on the hull. I once calculated that there are about yards of feather laps in an Adirondack guideboat. I really get into doing feather laps. Screw the garboard back onto the hull. This time screw the garboard to all of the ribs. Ignore screwing the garboard to the bottom board for now.
You need to remove the excess from the bottom of the garbard in order to properly locate these screws. Using a block plane start removing the excess from the bottom surface of the garboard plank. The garboard plank as well as all planks up to plank 8 is made up of two planks on each side of the hull. They are joined by a scarf.
One plank is longer than the other and runs past the hull midpoint rib station 0 to rib station 1 or 2 on the other side of station 0. This is akin to laying bricks wher the joints are purposely staggered to increase the strength of the stack.
Mark off where you want the scraf to land by drawing a line along the underside of the plank right along the farside of rib 1 or 2. The plank scarf always falls on top of a rib so that its inside surface is hidden by the rib. Make sure you measure the scarf position carefully! Remove the plank and cut off the plank along the scarf line.
This line designates the start of the scarf. Use a chisel to begin removing the waste and start forming the scarf. Switch to a block plane and finally a sanding block as you finish up. It is time to mount the first of the four planks that make up the garboard plank. First attach the plank to the hull using the screws already in use. Then drill the remainder of screw holes using a taped drill bit for a 3 or 4 screw.
Use a countersink attached to the bit. Remove the plank and apply a marine sealant. You can use a conventional bedding compound that can be obtained from a marine supply house such as Jamestown Distributors. This is an non-hardening compound made of calcium carbonate powder in a oil vehicle. It is similar in consistency to a gooey glazing compound. I use a modern sealant that does have some mild adhesive properties. It is Sikaflex LOT. The advantage of Sikaflex is that it comes in a cartridge like house caulk and can be applied with a caulking gun.
Be sure to use a caulking gun that has a pressure release button so that you can shut off the flow quickly when you need to. Now place the plank back on the hull and screw it in place.
Some of the bedding compound will extrude out onto the surface. You will be tempted to try to wipe it off. It is better if you let it harden into a rubbery glob. It is easier to remove.
Repeat what you have done above for the remaining planks. Bedding compound is placed in the scarf first to seal it. The completed round of the garboard planks looks like this:.
I believe the second round of planking is the second easiest to install. You will realize why as we climb up the hull installing round after round of planking. Start by clamping your spiling batten on the hull so that it lies between the upper edge of the garboard plank and the tick marks that locate the upper edge of plank number two. I used 5. The overall length of the batten is about 8 feet. Using a simple compass with pencil, swing an arc onto the batten from each rib station and tick mark.
You want to be able to lock the compass so the the arc radius does not change as you continue through the spiling process. If it does you are sunk and will have to start all over again.
Now secure the batten to a piece of new planking stock, either by screwing it or clamping it down. Try to anticipate where any defects on the planking stock may fall so that they are excluded from the final plank. The batten will have two rows of arcs, one row facing up and the other down.
For each of these arcs, swing two new arcs, one originating from one side of the arc and the other from the other side of the arc. The two arcs will meet at a point. This point represents the location of point where the compass arc was originally swung from on the hull. Thus you have transferred a point on the upper surface of the garboard plank to your new plank or from one of the tick marks to your new plank.
After you transfer each of these points to the new plank connect them to form two lines, one that reproduces the contour of the upper surface of the garboard plank, and one that reproduces the upper surface of plank number 2. Cut the plank out along these lines. Now fit the new plank to the stem and check for fit along the upper surface of the garboard and the rib tick marks.
Use a block plane to make any adjustments. Now apply the feather lap to both edges of the new plank using a block plane. Make sure you apply the lap to the proper side of the plank so that one side meshes with the previous plank and the other will receive the next round of planking. Clamp the plank back in place and make any modifications to ensure that it fits the stem, the garboard plank and the tick marks.
If it does, screw it to the ribs in several places, then remove it and apply the plank scarf. Screw the plank back onto the hull and make a final check to see that it fits all around. If it does remove it, apply the bedding compound, and screw that plank back in place. The plank laps are sealed by driving soft copper tacks along the edge of the feather lap. The tacks are both driven and clinched all in the same operation. When complete, the hull will have two rows of tacks along the feather laps, one row driven from outside the hull inward, the other driven from inside the hull outward.
At this time we are only concerned with the row of tacks that is driven from outside the hull inward. Start by laying out the location of the tacks. This is most easily done using a compass and pencil. Set the compass to the distance between the tacks and swing a series of arcs one after another down the lap to mark the position of each tack. You can then set the compass to locate the distance down from the lap edge to where the tack is located. Each tack will need a pilot hole so that the feather lap does not split when the tack is driven.
Old timers used a diamond-tipped awl to punch a tiny pilot hole in the lap. I use an awl with a tiangluar shaped cross section. This prevents the very thin stock from splitting when the tack is driven. Stick the tacks into each pilot hole and tap them lightly with your tack hammer to keep them from falling out as you drive their neighbors tacks home. The photo on the left show the tools and fasteners used to secure the planks and the feather lap.
I use a rachet screwdriver that can accomodate various driver heads. Pictured are the tack hammer, awl, and the clinching iron. The clinching iron is made of bronze. It is more expensive than a cast iron clinching iron but will not leave a black mark on the planking as a cast iron one does. Hold the clinching iron on the inside of the hull opposite the tacks being driven. Move the iron down the row and continue to drive and clinch the tacks. Repeat the above for the other three planks that comprise the second round of planking.
I am out of planking stock so it is time to head out into Amish Country to Hearne Hardwoods. As I mentioned earlier they carry a great variety of both domestic and exotic hardwoods. Hearne carries a nice selection of Spanish cedar that meets my width and length requirements for guideboat planking. They just fit inside my Suburban if I slide them up to just short of the windshield.
Last spring was quite an adventure. After I keeled over leading a bunch of 5th graders on a nature hike, the doctors determined that I needed a heart valve replacement. Without the valve replacement I had maybe 3 years of life left, but with a new valve 2 decades. The surgeon said that, for him, it was a simple operation his group does maybe to open heart surgeries a year and he was voted the best heart surgeon in Delaware. The surgery was performed on May 15th and I immediately felt better.
In fact, now after 6 months have passed, I feel years younger. I consider the whole experience a modern day miracle. So the blog will continue. This summer in the Adirondacks was a delight. There was little rain so that some lakes, like Long Lake, receded to near record lows. A surprise awaited me upon my return to the North Country in June. A neighbor, knowing that I am a guideboat nut, told me that the Adirondack Interpretive Center in Newcomb had a guideboat on display and were making quite a fuss over it.
It is a work boat, apparently used primarily for guiding. The seats are wooden planks and it lacks any of the fancy adornment that Chase would later build into his craft. I assumed that this was the craft on display. But more about the Beaver later. A history lesson is in order first. They had a large stone boat house built which, by , held 17 boats including 11 guideboats. Some of their guideboats were built by Caleb Chase who lived nearby on Rich lake.
Until Novembr , it was unknown whether any other guideboats from the Huntington era still existed. The Beaver surfaced last Fall in Connecticut and news of it traveled here. Built in by Warren Cole a famous guideboat builder and resident of Long Lake the Beaver will be used in educational programs after it is restored. We are excied to have the Beaver back home and hope you are too. For being over years old, she is in excellent condition.
There are no cracked ribs but there is an open seam in one plank. Here is the stem shield for the Beaver which holds its name plate. The half-circular brass emblem above the name indicates that the Beaver belongs to the Arbutus Lake flotilla.
The tag above it identifies the builder, Warren Cole. The above view of the Beaver reveals how truly extraordinary this craft is. No wonder guideboats have been called the Stradivarius of wooden boats! Everything about the Beaver exudes a kind of delicacy and perhaps fragility. What is particularly impressive to me is the way the ribs recurve at the bow and stern, at first curving up and away from the bottom board and then curving back in again.
This sort of construction is seldom seen on guideboats probably because of the difficulty in finding spruce roots that have a grain structure that follows such a contour. Above shows the midships seat with what appears to be the original caning. The carrying yoke and oars are original too. His vision for the future role of guideboats in the Adirondacks is a total change from what it once was. He sees it used to educate Adirondack school children in their cultural heritage as well as awakening them to the preciousness of the natural world all about them.
His goal is to have every Adirondack school child row a guideboat before they graduate high school. A word about the welcome home party for the Beaver. It is based on a Grant design. I like the stern seat hoop. He found it a bit windy on the far side of the lake. He found rowing against the wind with the traditional guideboat pinned oars a bit of a struggle. It is constructed by stretching a fabric over a frame formed by the ribs and stringers. After the morning gathering on Lake Rich, we retired to Adirondack Interpretive Center were Paul formally welcomed the Beaver back home.
Hallie Bond, Watercraft Curator at the Adirondack Museum, added to the festivities by giving a presentation on Adirondack guides and their boats. Afterwards we all celebrated with a dish of ice cream. After my trip to Hearne Hardwood last spring I have a stash of Spanish cedar planking that needs to be converted to planking stock. The best way I have found to do this is to use a table saw to partially resaw the plank and then finish up with a band saw. This is because when the plank becomes separated into two planks as it passes through the saw it becomes difficult to hold on to.
After you make your first pass with the table saw make sure the same side of the plank remains against the fence on the second pass as it was in the first pass. This will ensure that the thickness of the cut is maintained constant. The final separation using the band saw is pretty straight-forward. I mentioned earlier that I would talk more about spiling. So, like everyone does these days, I searched the Internet. A good article on Spiling by John Battersby came up. He made me feel better about trying to define spiling since he, a long time boat builder, also had a hard time defining it.
Essentially the goal of spiling is to transfer the shape of a curved surface to another surface. For example a boat builder often needs to shape a plank to fit tightly against a keel, another plank, or to a stem, all of which are curved surfaces. To do this he uses various methods all within the purview of spiling. Both of these tools are important to get a satisfactory result. First the batten. It must follow closely the plank edge you are trying to replicate.
A straight batten will suffice for the first three rounds of guideboat planking. The crooked batten is on the left and the straight batten is on the right in the photgraph below. To begin spiling, set the point of the compass at each rib station and strike an arc on the batten at each station. The point should be at the upper edge of the bevel on the previous plank and centered on the rib.
You will end up with a series of arcs all facing upward along the batten. You will end up with a series of arcs all facing downward along the batten. Now remove the batten from the hull and secure it to the raw stock that will become the new plank. Using the same compass setting, strike a pair of arcs from each of the original arcs. One arc should be struck from the left hand side of the original arc and the other from its right hand side.
They will cross one another to form a point. This point represents the point from where the original arc was struck on the batten, whether it be on the edge of the previous plank or on the tick mark. This gives you pretty accurately the shape of your new plank. As I began to plank the third round, I was conscious of an upcoming challenge.
The hull shape is beginning to change from more or less horizontal to almost vertical. The point at which this occurs most abruptly is called the turn of the bilge. Now at plank rounds three and four this change in shape is still gradual enough that I can accomodate it without too much trouble. The photos below show the rounded edge scarper and the hull after round three. Essentially they hollowed out the new plank using a special plane that had a rounded sole.
They made sure that the plank was thicker by the amount that was to be removed from the hull side during backing out. From my perspective, this is a daunting process. The major complicating factor is that the rib shape changes from midships to stem. Thus backing out must accomodate this change in shape as one proceeds from the midships to stem. The greatest rib curvature occurs at the midships and then it diminishes to zero curvature near the stem. So backing out will take a high degree of skill and patience to pull off.
Hence my feeling of foreboding as I approached the point where I would have to back out my planks. In my previous guideboat building adventures I was forced to choose a way around backing out.
Try as I might I could not find a plane with a rounded sole. I resorted to what you might call cold molding. I soaked the new plank for several days by placing it between two pieces of wet carpet. Then I clamped it onto the hull and left it there to dry for several days. I would shim the plank to slightly overbend it to allow for the plank to spring back after the clamps were removed.
The plank fit nicely using this technique. It did work best with planks that were mostly quarter sawn. This time around I wanted to try backing out. I had a used block plane that I could sacrifice in an attempt to make it into a backing out plane. I left the iron in it and started to grind away using my belt sander to round the sole.
I then ground back the iron and resharpened it. The whole process was easier than I expected and the plane is entirely functional. I was resigned to backing out my planks but it was certainly not something I was truly looking forward to doing. I knew that I would be sorely challenged to get everything to fit correctly, plank to rib and plank to plank.
My son Stew visited with his family over the Christmas Holidays. He is a expert woodworker who has ventured into all sorts of projects including grandfather clocks, a White Hall sailing rowboat he made everything including the sails , and his own surf board.
He has now decided to build his own guitar. It seems that guitar makers bend the sides of the guitars in a elaborate set-up that has the shape of one side of the guitar as a mandrel. The thin piece of wood that will form the side is pressed between the mandrel and another part that exactly matches the mandrel. In order to get the side to bend it is first sprayed with water, wrapped in aluminum foil, and then a silicone heating blanket is placed on top.
The blanket has a wire heating element inside and can be heated to to degrees in a minute or two. The whole operation of bending the side into the complex guitar shape is accomplished in a couple of minutes.
I immediately thought that this would work not only for bending ribs but also for the more immediate problem, bending planks to conform to the ribs. We agreed that he would lend me his set-up so that I could try it for plank bending. To see if this bending method could be applied to guideboat building, I made up a faux plank from some planking scrap, sprayed it liberally with water, and wrapped it in aluminum foil.
After about 1. After 2 minutes I shut the blanket off and let everything cool down to room temperature. The result was amazing. The plank conformed to the ribs with little or no spring back. There was no cracking even though the plank exhibited both flat and quarter sawn characteristics.
Flash molding of the planking instead of backing out results in hours of work saved as well as more easily getting a precise fit of planks to the ribs. It could also make the job of laminating rib stock much easier.
Instead of laminating five lathes to get one rib laminate it should be possible to use fewer lathes, perhaps two or three. The next step was to obtain my own set-up to do flash molding.
I went on the Net to see what the luthiers musical instrument makers were recommending. They pointed me to Watlow Industries as the best source for the silicone rubber blanket. I tracked down their distributor, Thermal Devices, and representative, Rob Strayton, at The next question was how to control the temperature while molding. Rob said that I could use a dimmer switch to control the power input and a digital thermometer to measure the temperature.
I went back on the Net and searched temperature controllers. I thought that was a real bargain! The blanket with temperature controller is shown in the photo below. From top: left to right, the controller, the relay, an off-on switch for the blanket and the thermocouple. Bottom: the silicone rubber heating blanket. A proportional controller is advantageous because it decreases the power output to the blanket as the set temperature is approached.
Therefore it overshoots the set temperture by only a small margin during heat-up. I decided to try out my new toy to see how it would do molding rib stock. I wrapped one of them in aluminum foil, put the blanket on top of the wood strip, and then a backing wood strip on the top, and clamped the assembly lightly into one of my rib molds.
I tucked the thermocouple between the blanket and the cedar stock. I set the the controller at deg. C and turned on the power to the blanket. In 2 minutes the temperature had reached 63 deg. After 3 minutes the temperature reached 85 deg. There was little resistance and I was able to make the rib stock conform closely to the mold. After 7 minutes the temperature reached deg. C and I shut off the power to the blanket.
I let the assembly cool for about minutes before I removed the assembly and inspected the rib stock. The photo below shows the rib assembly in the mold after heating. I found that there was some spring-back but that the rib stock took the general shape of the rib. There was no cracking whatsoever which was quite encouraging. I then bent the second piece of cedar with similar results. The molded cedar pieces are shown in the photo below.
The results are encouraging. I think that, by increasing the number of clamps during molding, I can get an even better fit of the rib stock to the mold. The ribs will still need to be laminated to avoid the effects of spring-back. However, I believe that I can reduce the number of lathes from the present five to probably three.
Paul Hai was determined to get the Beaver back on the water in the summer of He plans to use her to run guide boat tours on historic Lake Rich. Those interested in learning more about the cultural and ecological heritage of the Newcomb area and the Adirondack Park will be able sign up and take an informative guide boat ride on lovely Rich Lake. Paul wanted the Beaver returned to as close to her original condition as possible.
To do that he commissioned author and boat builder Mason Smith of Long Lake to accomplish the task. Mason has restored many wooden boats and has sold many of his modern version of the Adirondack guideboat which he calls the Adirondack Goodboat. The most difficult task Mason faced was to replace part of the bottom board of the Beaver which had dry rotted sometime in her past. Mason said that the original bottom board was an extraordinary piece of white pine quarter sawn lumber the likes of which he had never seen.
The grain was extremely tight and board free of any defects. As you will see from the photos below Mason did and outstanding job on restoring the Beaver to her past glory. He did push the re-introduction just a bit. Paul is having another antique guide boat refurbished for duty as a touring vessel. Both boats will be in service this summer running guide boat historical and ecological tours on Rich lake. Further information on the tours will be forthcoming.
Looking forward to seeing some of you on Rich Lake this summer. I am now on the fourth row of planks or round 4. With round 4 the curvature of the hull was just starting to be noticeable. As shown below I used my backing-out plane and a cabinet scraper with a curved blade. This seemed to do the trick. The plank is a little thinner in some places than the nominal thickness but not enough to make any real difference.
I carefully match the mating side of the template plank to the previously installed plank while leaving the other side of the template a little thicker than it needs to be. Once the mating side is set, I can make sure the other side matches up with the tick marks on each rib. The template can also be used to lay out the other three half planks.
Usually only slight adjustments need to be made in the template to get it to conform with the shape of the other three half planks. Normally the lapped edges of each plank will close when you apply mild pressure to the seam.
This generally occurs with the higher numbered ribs. What is going on? The later cause just means that the two laps are not matching up.
To figure out what is going on you have to go through contortsions and get down underneath the hull. First clamp the new plank in place. By looking at the spot where the gap is occurring you can tell if the the plank is not conforming to the shape of the rib or whether the mating plank is riding up on the previous plank.
The later is probably the cause. To correct the problem mark where the trailing edge of previous plank is intersecting the new plank. Most likely it will indicate that the lap on the new plank needs to be extended a little so that the laps match up.
Now things become interesting! The curvature of the hull is now becoming a problem. There is no easy way out. The planks must be backed out or another way found to make them conform to the hull shape.
Backing out is quite a challenge. You must start with a plank that is thicker than the final required thickness to allow for the hollowing out.
The amount of backing out is not constant but varies with position along the hull. It is at a maximum at the midships while at rib position 11 and on to the stem the plank needs no backing out. Then the top surface of the plank needs to be shaped so the it conforms to the other side of the plank and the plank, over all, is at the required thickness. Quite an operation! I decided to try flash molding. I prepared a new round 5 plank and applied the lap to the side that mated with the previous plank.
I left the opposite side without a lap for now since tht would make it easier to clamp. I then sprayed the plank liberally with water, wrapped it in aluminum foil, and fastened it to the hull by screwing it down in several places. I then clamped the silicone rubber heating blanket along the upper edge of the new plank.
I tucked the thermocouple under one end of the blanket and turned on the juice. It took about 10 minutes to reach degrees C. I then shut off the the power to the blanket and clamped down the trailing edge of the plank. I did this a second time and then moved the blanket down to do the remainder of the plank that needed bending.
At that point I repeated the above cycle and let everything cool down for an hour or so. The photo below shows the set-up. Flash molding worked fine on three of the four half planks on round 5.
I repeated the flash molding process several times with no success. The plank remained just the same as if it had not been treated by flash molding. In desperation I went back to my previous method of conforming the plank to the hull. I soaked the plank between two pieces of wet carpet for several days and then clamped it in its position on the hull.
I allowed it to dry and, sure enough, it took the shape of the hull. I then mulled over what had happened. Why did this particular plank not respond to flash molding? Then I recalled the days when I made a bunch of Aeolite solo canoes.
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