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Can't Get On The Water. Sports, Toys, The Weather, etc. Video links Fishing, Fixing, boating and How-to Videos. Motors and Electronics. Welcome To AluminumAlloyBoats.
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Guides and Outfitters. Jettywolf Charters. For Sale. Personal items For Sale or Trade Tackle, gear and misc stuff. Links to Sites we Like. Who is online In total there are users online :: 2 registered, 0 hidden and guests based on users active over the past 5 minutes Most users ever online was on Tue Feb 11, am. Board index All times are UTC. They will fully cut your kit, and form all parts to spec. They even draw on the assembly lines for you. Here are some things to consider for the options:.
Laser: the limiting factor in laser-cutting is not speed or quality, but the size of the table. Only a large router at CJM was able to tackle this. Waterjet: a good option and many shops have a machine large enough to cut your parts. The downside is edge prep. The waterjet leaves sand particles in the surface of the weld. You will need to grind all the edges before welding. Router: the best option for boat building due to large tables and no edge prep.
The downside is that detailed cutting is limited to the size of the end mill being used. As most boat designs have been designed for a CNC router, this is not normally an issue unless there is an operator error. While a router is a great option, a bit of cleanup might be required. I found some interference issues in the joints of my jig, which required me to get in there with a little file and take out the cutter radius to make the jig fit correctly.
This is bad. Got it!? Ok good. Well, if you can afford a pulse mig machine, this is what you want. Professional boat builders will only use this kind of machine. However, they cost your first born child to buy, so maybe see if you can rent one for your build. If a pulse mig is not an option, you need a spool gun for your welding machine.
They are reasonably priced and most major manufacturers make them. You will need exceptional welding skills to use a standard spool gun though. Practice your different welds. Avoid burning through. I have been welding for 17 years and completely burned through my first boat.
Even better, hire a friend with boat-building skills. Have them go over the welding techniques with you. You will thank us later for this. The design files come with a jig. I chose to put mine on some custom-built sawhorses.
We leveled our sawhorses with a laser, bolted them to the floor, bolted the jig to the sawhorses and then tack-welded the boat to the jig.
Some builders choose not to tack weld the jig. The primary idea behind back step welding is to eliminate distortion as much as possible. This is very important. Weld towards the middle of the boat, but sequencing your welds out for the middle. See diagram. Try to keep the heat from being concentrated in one area for too long. My designer stressed the importance of this process. Follow the incremental back step process. This one is easy. Unless you have experience or access to some expensive machines, you are going to regret it.
I certainly did on my first build. After about eight hours of sweating profusely from manual tube bending, I will never do this again.
Yes, you could heat the aluminum with a torch and make things easier. Talk to the motor manufacturer and determine the best operating height of the motor. Not doing so could damage your motor or greatly reduce the performance. We hope these tips will help successfully build your first aluminum boat. Take these lessons from us, and get a specialist or a friend with the preferred experience to assist you.
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