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Why Boats Sink (and how to keep yours afloat)

Nautical Signal Flags Style Newport. The source of a boat leak is not always easy to find or fix. Here's how Sailinf diagnosed and repaired a troublesome boat leak on my sailboat. Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus. On most boats, refrigeration contributes more to daiily amp consumption than any other single item.

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Toe rail: � All along the tow rail, there must be a seal to prevent water getting into the boat. Inspect this. For obvious damage or gaps. The toe rail covers and protects the seal between the molded hull and the molded top of the cabin.

You can test for leaks by closing all hatches and shutting off all egresses. Then use a shop vac on reverse blow to pressurize the inside of the boat. Now soap down the hull of the boat and look for bubbles. We did not get around to this since we knew the leak was bigger than a tiny crack.

The entire bulk head rotted out over time because of constant water getting into the boat. Ours � fine. Water Heater: � The water heater fills from the water tanks. If the water heater is allowed to freeze it will blow out a safety stop then anytime you turn on the water supply pressure you are pumping fresh water tank water into the boat. All good. Water tanks: � Many boats have a plastic water tank whereby the inlet and exit from the tank are on top.

This prevents water leaks out the bottom � but � maybe your tank is not like this. Our water tanks were in good shape and all holes are in the top.

Rudder: � The boat is usually designed with a hollow rudder post that is molded into the boat and the post rises above the water line clever. Thus, unless this is all cracked from hitting the bottom its unusual to see a leak here.

But check it anyway. Use the talcum powder if suspicious. No tell tale signs on ours. Keel: � The keel is bolted through the hull to the top of serious stringers molded into the hull and there is a seal between the keel and hull to prevent water coming in.

The bolts are highly tensioned. This technology has been essentially perfected over the years but � older boats, poor quality manufacturing, or groundings can affect the integrity of this seal.

There are lots of articles on the net on how to fix a leaking keel. With out pulling the boat, o urs looked fine. Air conditioner: � Ah ha � the culprit we think.

So � a few months back the air conditioner was playing up a little so we took a look. The raw cooling water strainer was full of junk we cleaned that and the pan that collects the condensate was pretty rusty with a collection of condensate water in it.

And there was rusty water in the bilge which meant the rusty pan had been spilling water over and out of the pan. Windows, especially as boats get older, are a common leak point. Test these with a hose or bucket of water. If you have simple acrylic windows bolted on, you may get away with tightening the fixings. However, other windows, especially those with complex aluminium frames, may need stripping and rebuilding, which is a tricky and time-consuming job.

The fittings designed to keep water out where wires pass through the deck are another common source of leaks. Check these by pouring a bucket of water over them while someone looks on from down below. Common failures include the rubber gaskets wearing out, or the wires being too small for the gland.

You can make a quick fix with Sikaflex or another sealant. Some of the better glands that allow a plug to pass through are of the J-hoop type. The area where the hull is joined to the deck is also a potential leak point, especially if the boat has been damaged or hit.

Check with a hose, but you may have to look behind built-in furniture or lockers. The hull-deck joint can be tricky to reseal, so eliminate all other leak ideas beforehand! Leak sources vary: some joins are through-bolted, so resealing the bolts may fix it. Others are joined with a resin fillet which may have detached and need grinding back and replacing.

Chain plates are another common leak point. This can be serious, especially if they are bolted to a wooden bulkhead which can become rotten and lose much of its Boat Sailing On Water 360 strength. Any sign of blackened timber suggests a leak. Resealing these with a new set of bolts and some flexible, non-setting sealant will keep the water out � see Practical Projects, page 84, for one way of sealing them.

Stanchion bases, for instance, are subject to heavy loads when people use them to fend off with, and they can shift and crack at the base: therefore, checking with a hose for water ingress is sensible.

Likewise, jib tracks and winch bases are sometimes submerged on the leeward rail and involve numerous holes in the deck. Toerails are another potential source: some of these only leak when sufficient force is applied ie heeling under sail , and can be hard to locate. One often-overlooked area for leaks on wheel-steered boats is the steering pedestal. This is subject to large loads, and as a long lever it puts a lot of force on the fixing bolts and layup, which can lead to leaks into the boat.

Test with a hose, and get someone to apply pressure to the top of the pedestal to see if there is any movement at the base. Similarly, you may find that hatches and vents are liable to leaking.

Also, check the seal for splits and damage � you can buy replacement seals for Lewmar and other hatches if this is the case. Test with a hose � you often find that hinges and handles leak once the hatch has reached a certain age. These can be relatively easily removed and resealed. Vents are also potentially leaky. They also need stripping down � sometimes the fixing holes can leak, or the plastic base can crack, rendering the baffles useless.

If this is the case on your boat, it would be a good idea to treat the damaged area and prevent further damage or deterioration. A perfect solution is to grind down the surface and then coat the bolt holes and the area with epoxy. This can help in shedding water and effectively reduce rot just in case sealing the leaks isn't a success.

You should never overlook deck drainage as they can cause serious hazards to your boat. So whether it involves installing a scupper or notching the rail, you must find a way of providing adequate drainage to your boat's deck. Windows, ports, and hatches usually develop leaks if the structures to which they're attached are subject to movement or are not completely rigid.

This generally leads to the breakage of bedding seals. The same thing happens on the sides of the cabin trunks, especially if you usually jump on the deck as the seals will break, leaving your boat with portholes.

Again, using a Stay Afloat or the 3M will cure the problem. Today's boats are made of cored hulls and materials that can be easily damaged and let in water onto your boat. A possible solution to this problem is to ensure that a through-hull fitting is NEVER installed through a core structure. You should also ensure that the surface doesn't have a pronounced curve. The best solution to ensuring that water never gets into the core is to never damage the core.

This will ensure that there's no possibility of water leaking into the core because it's completely sealed off. Repeated packing glands leakage is normally caused by excessively flexible engine mounts, especially if your boat has a diesel engine. Diesel can cause vibrations that in turn lead to engine movements that can lead to shaft misalignment, which can then cause leakages in packing glands.

This is because the shaft will spin oddly and cause wear on one side of the packing gland. There's no good solution to this type of leakage as it revolves around the vibrations caused by your boat's diesel engine. Do not be advised to buy expensive dripless glands as it won't cure the problem. You can consider replacing the engine, especially if it's old.

Another common leakage problem that can be found on boats revolves around windlasses. The leakages usually cause extensive damage to the windlass motor drive and housing and can develop if the seals around the deck and bolts are broken because they're highly stressed, especially if extremely heavy loads are placed on the windlasses.

The best solution to curing these leaks is by pulling and rebinding the windlass, which can be very unpleasant. You should avoid using caulk because this will not help.

Whatever the cause, it's important that you find the source of the problem and have it rectified. Stanchion bases are often subjected to lots of stress and even the best stanchion installations will begin to leak as the boat ages.

Unfortunately, many boat builders do not provide access to the underside of the stanchions, which make repairing leaking stanchions nightmarish. But if you can reach the undersides, repairing them becomes quite easy. All you have to do is remove the bases, check if the bolts and holes are of proper size.

If the holes are bigger, you can refill them with epoxy or milled fibers. If the bolts are worn out, you can buy new ones. You can also bed the stanchion bases using Stay Afloat or 3M To this end, it can be suicidal to think that repairing leaks on your boat is an easy undertaking that can be done at a low cost.

Although repairing a leak can be easy, the fact that accessing the damaged part is almost impossible makes it a different task altogether. In most cases, it may involve tearing out a part of your boat's interior, especially if the leaks are on the decks.

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