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FIBERGLASS BOATBUILDING: You Start With a Mold - myboat144 boatplans

Illustrated Custom Boatbuilding. We recommend that you read this hardcover book - Order now and we will pay the postage. You biat email us regarding specific boat building questions and we will be pleased to give you a prompt reply. In the meantime Please email me your fiberglass boat building process 10 on our fiberglass boat building process 10 We have developed a 'cheap one-off mold' fiberglass boat building system that is ideal for building larger powerboats.

There are two main Ezi-Build methods - one where you build an inexpensive female mould and lay up the hull in that mould and another where you pre-make the hull prkcess and assemble them inside a simple frame mould. First we will look at the female mould method. With the current rise in the number fiberglass boat building process 10 people interested in power boats and the acceptance of chine hulls in general, we decided to simplify and streamline our original methods buildijg make them suitable for one-off production by amateur and professional builders.

When looking at these techniques, we were developing a new range of power boat designs builxing the latest CAD software so that these designs did not involve difficult fiberglass boat building process 10 but instead were easily assembled in simple one-off moulds.

These new designs all reflected the ability of the computer to produce absolutely fair, developable hull surfaces suitable for turning flat sheets of fiberglass into attractive hulls. Most of the original designs were directed towards steel or aluminium but the demand for similar fiberglass methods led us to develop computer lofted hulls fiberglass boat building process 10 full developable surfaces and the result is the Ezi-Build technique.

This area should be as wide as the beam of the boat plus a minimum of one foot [mm]. The depth should buioding fiberglass boat building process 10 depth of the hull, plus a minimum of 3 feet [1 metre]. This space will be the minimum required to construct the frames over fiberglass boat building process 10 patterns. This procedure will be explained in your boat plans and should be easy to follow.

Remember, that you are making frames for a female mould. The frame pieces will be joined by using half inch [12mm] plywood gussets glued, nailed, screwed or stapled fiberglass boat building process 10 place. Screws are strongest but staples are quickest and most convenient. Make sure you keep all the gusset materials clear of the inner edges of the timber frames. Later, you may need to trim these inner edges with a plane and nails or gussets will interfere with this process.

Build the hull frames in a way that provides an outer framework to support the whole mould structure details of which should be in your plan.

In designs under 32 feet [10 metres], the bottom of the support structure can be canted 45 degrees which will enable the fiberglaass structure to be tilted, side to side, for easy lamination. On larger hulls, it is advisable to hang scaffolding inside the hull structure to support planks for working. For one-off fiberglass boat building process 10, the relatively cheap Ezi-build mould, which is easy to disassemble, has eliminated much of the need for the more compliCATAMARANed split mould and, for those of you prpcess think bulding these methods present more work than is justified, compared to building a one-off hull over a male mould, let me assure you after having sanded many fibreglass fibertlass, I feel these methods are by far the best and fastest way to build a fiberglass boat building process 10 off fibreglass power boat or multi chine sailboat hull.

A tip on setting up the frames � if the frames forward of frame 5 are set up with their forward face on the station line and the frames aft of frame 5 are set up fiberglasw their aft face on the station line, then most of the bevelling and fairing will be avoided.

The battens can be fastened to the frames without any of the usual trimming buildkng shaping. The best sequence for installing the frames is to set up the centre frame first, usually station 5. Make sure fiberglass boat building process 10 frame is truly vertical, using a plumb-bob hung from the centre line marked on the headstock.

Brace this frame securely so it cannot move and use it as the reference point for setting up the fiberglass boat building process 10 of the frames. When all the frames, stem, centre line board and transom centre line board are in position and securely Fiberglass Boat Building Process 45 fiberglass boat building process 10, then you can start to fiberglwss the battens.

Scarf the proceess into full length pieces, the length of the hull plus a few inches for trimming. The batten width may vary. You should have a stock of wider boards of the correct booat and then rip the battens to selected width depending on the fiebrglass of your particular hull shape.

Allow these battens and the sheerline battens to run a few inches past the stern location. Now you may install the transom section of the mould.

Camber boards are half checked at right angles to and on to the transom centre line board. Once the camber boards are in place, batten up the transom vertically. It is usually huilding necessary or advisable to nail the builving and transom battens together, use plywood strips outside fiberglass boat building process 10 battens placed near the intersection of the side and transom fiberglads to hold the battens fair.

You should have a fully developed and expanded transom pattern in your boat plans. Fiberflass this pattern you may prefer to make up the transom as a separate unit and serve it up to the mould in one piece. If you make the transom as a separate unit, it can be at finerglass partially laid up away from the main mould. This is required if you have a transom with a reverse panel, where the laminate would need to bjilding laid up from beneath, a very difficult, if not impossible operation.

If you build the transom in place, then fiberglass boat building process 10 transom pattern can be used to cut the lining material. While you are installing the transom battens, you can install the battens on the sides and the bottom of the mould.

Always install battens on alternate sides of the centre line, working progressively on both sides. After all fiberglass boat building process 10 are in place, install fairing gussets or strips of one half inch [12mm] thick by four inches [mm] wide plywood, clench nailed on the outside of the battens, one or two strips between each frame. The strips run from sheer to the chine and from the chine to the centre line. The strips finerglass even out the battens and fair up one to the other, and greatly help in fairing up your hull.

You will need two people to install these plywood strips. As you will be attaching the mould lining with contact cement rather than nails, you bozt make sure the battens are fair before you start to install the lining material. You should use three sixteenth inch [4 or 5mm] plywood or tempered hardboard or any fiberglasx suitable sheeting material.

If you use plywood it will need to be coated but be sure that the coating is compatible fiberglass boat building process 10 the fiberglass � do a test. From this stage onward work closely with your proceas materials supplier and take his advice on the correct wax and release agent to use fiberglass boat building process 10 the mould.

Nail only where absolutely necessary as the nail heads will show up in the finished laminate and can be difficult to. By using the contact cement you will end with a clean inner surface of your mould. Carefully pre-fit buildibg sheet before applying the cement and attaching it to the mould. It is not a difficult job to install the lining ptocess you work with some care. Note fiberglass boat building process 10 set up for the scaffold planks so that you can work inside the fiberglass boat building process 10 without peocess over the fresh laminate material.

The boat plans have much more detail than can be included. Also, radius any areas where you need to have rounded corners. For this job, you can use body filler or any other polyester based material that is compatible with the fibreglass laminate you will fberglass installing.

If you have used hardboard proess line your mould, you will now be fiberg,ass to apply the wax as discussed earlier. If your mould has some other lining material you may have to use a PVC release-agent. You should talk to your material suppliers about the most suitable. We would recommend you use some form of gelcoat, either pigmented or clear. To start the laminating fibeeglass, choose a day where the temperature is between 65 and 80 degrees F or 18 to 26 degrees Celsius.

Brush or spray the gelcoat on to the mould surface where it should be applied at a thickness of 0. You can measure the thickness of the gel-coat by using a special gauge obtainable from your fibreglass supplier. Ideally, you should use a clear isothalic NPG gelcoat and back it up with a layer of surface tissue and vinyl ester resin. This is important so see your resin fiebrglass about getting the right materials if you want to be sure of increased resistance to water permeation and avoid any possibility of osmosis, at a later date.

You will need two or three helpers as you start to lay up the hull and it is advisable, for temperature control, to be at the same stage of lamination each day with each successive layer.

Procexs the laminate bost from applying too much fiberglass boat building process 10 at one time, it may cause distortion and pre-release from fiberglasd mould. Once the fiberglass boat building process 10 and first layer of mat are in place you will have passed the most critical stage of your laminating process. Providing you follow some form of temperature control, you should go on to complete the laminate without any problems.

As mentioned earlier, always finish your laminating at the same part of your hull each day. Three willing workers can lay up a fifty guilding [20 metres] hull in a few days. Two layers of fibreglass per day, one mat rpocess one roving, is a reasonable amount to install at one go without causing the laminate to overheat. New resins are being formulated fiberglass boat building process 10 the time so you must have the latest technical data and support from your materials supplier.

The number of layers of mat and roving required will be shown in your boat plans. After the layers that cover the whole hull surfaces are completed, you will most likely be required to install extra layers in the areas of the keel and below the hull waterline. Most laminate schedules call for overlapping and or interleaving the various layers in the areas such as the chine and keel, thus building up extra strength where it is required.

Again, we remind you to trim the sheerline of your hull each day. This will usually be done as work progresses and about an hour after the fiberglass boat building process 10 layer for the day has been installed.

Once you have installed the basic laminate and any pprocess layers called for in your plan laminate schedule, you should add any stringers, sole shelf, deck shelf etc and any other 01 members Fiberglass Boat Building Process Technology called for in your boat plans. You should then install all the ribs, stringers, bulkheads and web floors before you remove the hull from the mould. After you have completed the installing of the stringers and ribs etc and if you do not plan to use the mould again, you may prefer to remove only the mould above the chine or water line, leaving the bottom section to act as a cradle.

Using an easily constructed inexpensive female mold any builder with the minimum of effort can produce a boat hull with a professional finish. This Waverunner 65 has now been chartering in the Greek Islands for several years In either case, the best method to install the core is to use Vacuum bagging techniques that are described elsewhere in this book although the core can be installed manually.

If you intend building a sandwich hull, please read the chapters on one off building, where you may pick up a few ideas on the handling of core materials. The main advantage of using this technique is that a full mould is not required. You will retain the advantage that a minimum of finishing is required for the outer surface of your hull.

Very little filling and sanding will be needed to achieve an excellent professional fiebrglass of finish. For panel construction, the system of building the female frames and setting them up on a prlcess of bedlogs, is similar to the methods used when building an Ezi-build mould. Only a few battens are fiberglass boat building process 10 to hold the pricess square and vertical.

The technique of setting up the basic framework to hold the fibreglass panels is similar to the first stages of building the Ezi-build mould. The fewer battens required and the absence of a mould lining material, are the main differences between fiberglass boat building process 10 Ezi-build and the Panel methods. Additional bracing is used on the outside of the frame assembly and once the frames and the few battens are installed, the mould is ready for the fibreglass bot.

You should know:

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As late as the middle of the 20th century, boats were always built one at a time. Since the advent of fiberglass, however, boatbuilding has increasingly become an industrial process as opposed to a craft. The biggest builders these days can churn out hundreds--or even thousands--of boats a year on massive assembly lines studded with computer-controlled robots that do everything from spraying gelcoat into molds, to cutting hatches and drilling holes for fasteners in decks, to cutting, trimming, and even varnishing interior woodwork.

But even on the most automated production line, a lot of manual labor is still needed for a boat to be built properly. Given the relatively small market for new sailboats, there is also a surprisingly large number of small builders who still build only limited numbers of boats using little automated machinery. For many in the industry boatbuilding is primarily a labor of love; to them boatbuilding will always be an avocation and never just a business.

Generally, however, the companies with the best long-term chances of survival are those that focus on economic reality and production efficiency.

One thing many mass-production builders have come to realize is that their biggest competition is not other builders of new boats, but the ever-growing number of older glass boats that are still on the water. It is now 60 years or so since the first glass boats appeared on the market, and there is still no evidence of any inherent limit to their useful life spans.

As far as we know, a well-built, carefully maintained glass boat can last virtually indefinitely. This, unfortunately, only encourages builders to produce boats that are less than durable.

Buyers who expect to trade in or sell a new boat within a few years need not worry about this, as serious maintenance issues are unlikely to arise in the first few years of ownership. To help those who find their cruising sailboats on the brokerage market i. Having a good basic knowledge of construction techniques can save you from making some big blunders when you buy a boat, so I encourage you to stay tuned.

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Charles has logged more than 40, miles as an offshore sailor, including six transatlantic passages and some single-handed passages.

His blog posts appear courtesy of his website www. Boat Reviews. Start Up Staff. Boating Guides. Boat Buyer's Guide. Boat Seller's Guide. Spring Commissioning for Your Boat. Popular Articles Related Articles 1. Five Affordable Trawlers Under 40 Feet. What Hull Shape is Best? Best Boat Brands. What Type is Right for You? Top 10 Choices for Boaters.

It is applied through a foam roller, where you need to use firm force and directional strokes in order to evenly distribute the resin. Prepare the fiberglass cloth and cut it according to the shapes needed to cover your boat. Use staples, tacks, or tape to attach them to the boat. The second coating of resin is called the bond coat. If you can extend your patience, sand the hull again, and apply the second coat on top Fiberglass Boat Building Process 2019 of the fiberglass cloth.

Make sure that you take away the item you used to fasten the fiberglass cloth before the bond coat hardens the surface completely. The third resin coating is called the fill coat. After sanding, apply a third coat of resin. The final resin coating must be evenly applied and smooth, and it needs to be thick enough that you can sand without creating damage to the fiberglass cloth.

Remember that the final coating is what people can see clearly, and it defines the beauty of your boat. Wait for a considerable amount of time for the final coating of resin to completely dry, and that can take overnight to accomplish. And when the final coating is hard and strong enough, sand the hull using a lower grit paper in the beginning, and complete the sanding process with a higher grit paper.

Do this sanding process meticulously and with utter precision. Choose a protective agent that is high quality. Avoid purchasing a cheap version, since the protective agent contributes to the durability and elegance of your boat. Do your research, or ask recommendation for renowned boat builders if you are unsure what brand to purchase. Fiberglass is the best material to use for smaller boats, and the fiberglass cloth can be used to add allure, durability, and strength to your boat.

Using fiberglass allows you to curve and form this material easily compared to wood or metal. It certainly gives you the freedom to use your imagination for the betterment of your boat. With a fiberglass boat, you have a lighter boat that can sail through water efficiently. And your ride is quieter compared to wooden boats. Plus, fiberglass is easy to repair and maintain.

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