Diy Canoe Building Plans Meaning

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If you race the model in AMYA regatta they may not be changed, interchanged, substituted or otherwise manipulated once any heat or series of heats in which scores will be compiled, has started.

Ballast bulbs may be made from any readily available material, such as poured lead, lead shot, etc. Note: When using material such as lead shot, the mass must be solidified through the use of a bonding agent such as fiberglass or epoxy resin, paraffin wax, plaster-of-paris, poured over and through in order to create a solid mass.

Hull internal ballasting: Added ballast-weight may be placed within the hull. The AMYA s45 class specifies such ballast shall be fixed in place by gluing, fiberglassing, or bolting bolts and screws. Important to note that he Star 45 Class specifically excludes radio equipment, sail controls and batteries power cells from being considered ballast.

The use of Velcro or similar quick release fasteners is prohibited as methods of mounting ballast. However batteries power cells which are not ballast can be mounted with Velcro allowing them to be placed within the hull to change the weight distribution. When deciding on the hatches for your model keep in mind access not only to radio and servos but also access to battery mounting locations. How to make your own keel bulb is an open item.

Jim Adams wrote that he make a plug from balsa and finished it to a smooth finish. Then, using two aluminum pans the kind that you throw away. He fills the first one with plaster. Having heavily waxed the balsa-bulb immerses it in the plaster half way to the bulb center line. Using two pins through the center to hold it down he lets the plaster harden.

Then he pulls out the balsa-plug covers the mold with plastic Saran wrap over places the waxed balsa-plug back in the mold. Now comes the fun part.

You may need to use rubber bands to hold the plug in place. Fill the second pan with plaster and lay the original plaster mold on top of the second plaster filled pan. It is kind of messy but it works. When the second half hardens about two hours pull them apart. You will need to plug any holes. Cut in a spur looks like a funnel big enough to pour in the lead. Air must vent when the mold is filled.

Pouring molten lead is dangerous. The plaster mold which Jim Describes must be absolutely dry and free of moisture or the lead can spray out of the spur. The hot lead hitting a cold mold can splash back. Wear safety glasses and gloves, and body coverings. You may want to place a piece of wood simulating the keel fin into the mold so you can attach the bulb to the fin.

You may also want to consider using a two piece mold large enough to hold a lead pellet-resin mix ballast material and them epoxy or bolt the halves together.

Consider making the bulb oversized until you are certain it weighs enough. Place it in a bath tub. Weight the model to float at the water line desired. The weigh it to see how heavy the keel needs to be. While we are working on a bare hull we must decide on the keel fin and how it will be mounted attached to the hull.

Keep in mind how you will access the keel mount when you design the hatches on your deck. Making a keel-trunk is simple. The top of the trunk should be above the water line. It is simply a wooden box built over the end of the keel stub that extends into the hull. It can be wood plywood, etc.

The length is determined by the stub dimensions. Here are pictures from one of my old hulls. I use auto-body resin paste to attach the trunk to the hull.

There is a lot of equipment inside the hull so easy access to the nuts and bolts is required. I wire the bolt heads together and can easily remove the nuts, push the bolts out of the way and remove the keel. These photographs show keel tubes and tubes glued in a hull. John Fisher uses brass tubes and reports that they were very easy to align due to the snug fit in the drilled holes. The tubes were glued into the hull using JB weld since it has very good strength for bonding metal JB weld is the silver colored epoxy.

Note: Time will tell if it was a good choice. No matter which mounting you select. Make certain when the mounting is installed the keel is centered bow-to-sern and vertical! Here are two drawings of my rudder design. The left hand drawing show the rudder of a molded fiberglass hull and the righthand drawing is based on the AMYA star plans. The balanced rudder lakes some of the load off the steering servo The leading edge portion is pressured by the water flow as the model sails.

Interesting aside. One way to build a rudder quickly and easily is cut out the shape in a thin material, tape the sides together, insert the rudder shaft, fill the inside of the rudder with epoxy.

This takes about 10 min or so to do. Our masts shall be made of wood or aluminum. Wooden masts have been around for years. Light weight straight grained spruce can be hard to find.

Compared to light weight extruded aluminum model masts, wood is a distant second choice. Model masts are self supporting and stepped on deck. This allows the skipper to position the mast when balancing the model for sailing. Mast steps come in many styles. A common one is simply a short pin in the foot of the mast that sets into a mast step with series of holes.

Velcro Mast Step A mast jack is a variation of the mast mounting pin. Depending on the material wire used for shrouds they may stretch. Some skippers want the rig to be set up stiff and the mast jack allows the mast to be jacked-up to re-tighten the stays. Another reason for using a mast jack is to enable a skipper to set up the mast once and then move it without having re-align the rig.

On a full size Star Boat the tall mast is supported by sliding back stays one one each side of the boat. The crew makes adjustments while underway, when the boat tacks the active back stay is released and the other back stay is pulled into position. The model star boat replaces the two back stays with a single back stay from a mast head fitting to a back stay fitting on the transom. Radio control systems of any number of channels may be used but the functions are limited to the rudder, sail control jib sheets and main sheet using no more than three servos.

Control of the jib may be separate or may be combined in one function. Some skippers use a servo to control the back stay tension or they link to sail winch to slightly tighten the back stay when sailing down wind.

With a jib boom that uses a swivel-vang the tension on the back stay changes as the jib moves. The main boom of a model is linked to the mast by a swivel connector which allows the boom to swing from side to side. Typically the boom on a model needs to kept from lifting when the sails are not trimmed in hard.

Vangs take a variety of forms from a turnbuckle, to a piece of fishing line to a line controlled by a servo to allow the boom to be pulled down or allowed to raise up. Often a left over length of extruded mast stock is used for a boom. Here is a gadget for connecting the sail tack to the boom end. Originally on the old model the jib was loose footed and did not use a jib boom aka a jib club.

The addition of a jib club allowed the jib shape to be controlled. Typically a swivel is placed along the forward end of the jib boom and clipped to a deck fitting aka jib rack.

The jib 1s a triangle. The halyard pulling the head of the jib places a force on the jib boom. The jib vang can be as simple as a swivel attached to the forward end of the jib boom and the jib-rack. As the swivel is moved forward and aft along the jib boom the leach of the sail has more or less ability to rise. There are jib boom fittings , i. The radial filling attaches to the end of the boom with a gooseneck An rigid adjustable vang from the radial fitting to the jib boom control the lift of the boom at at set angle.

Some skippers also set up a forestay from the head of the mast to the radial fitting. This has the advantage of staying taught against the back stay as the sails are trimmed thus keeping the mast straight.

With a jib boom and swivel the pull against the back stay changes as the jib moves. Since the jib stay attached to the jib boom in this arrangement moves off center and is subject to varying wind forces the tension on the jib stay and back stay will vary.

The driving force of the sails is changed when the air slot between the mast and jib changes. Maximum driving force occurs when the curve of the jib luff is shaped to meet the curve of the main sail. Instead of wooden or arrow shaft booms, airplane clips instead of the turnbuckles and so on. To:Star45 yahoogroups. The chain plates that attach the shrouds stays to the hull take a lot of beatings.

There is the load applied by the sails while under sail and there is the load as skippers pick up the model by the mast and carry it around.

Chain plates themselves can be as simple as a long screw eye bolt, as fancy as a jib-rack or tangs screwed into the side of a hull. Which ever style of chain plate the hull and deck must be braced reinforced to withstand the loads. Choose a material for stays that does not stretch.

I have used solid stainless fishing leader. It works but it is not recommended. My preference is the stranded stainless wires used for U-control airplanes.

I bought a set of drills the sized to the diameter of the stays. I drill into the aluminum mast, push the wire out from inside the mast, swag a sleeve onto a doubled wire and pull the wire back and swag to the turnbuckle. Models catch each other hooking onto stays. Sharp edges not only cut sails they also can stop models from un-hooking. Consider using short pieces if thin walled electrical tubing shrink tube which can be found in building supply places like Home D.

When buying or making your own sails remember the sail material is unrestricted. The key in sail materials is to select a light weight material. Cotton sail cloth is very much a obsolete material.

Consider not only woven materials but also consider plastics such as mylar and mylar composites. Yes you can have colored sails made from ripstop nylon. There are a lot of colors available. Some modelers use colored markers to color sails. If you are making sails yourself for the first time choose a sail material that is low cost.

As a do it your-selfer expect to botch the first few attempts. You can make paneled sails, but it is not required. They actually have some advantages in high winds because of the less draught.

Also, but putting in the luff curve and using a bolt-rope main, you do have a sail with some draught to it, not just a flat sheet of cloth. The block method works fine, but also.. Basically you cut the bottom panel seam flat, and draw your airfoil MAC mean aerodynamic chord and cut it with a 9 X-acto or scissors.

Use seamstress tape and over-stitch. Do the same thing with the luff curve, and hem the foot and leech and you are about there. Over-sew some corner panels, tack on some batten pockets and thread in a piece of weed-eater line up the hem of the luff and you are ready to put on your class markings and numbers.

Grommets in the corners are installed either with a seamstress tool or they could be ordered from Don Ginther at GBMY if he is still shipping, he was in the process of suspending operations. Also using contrasting thread colors can make the sail more attractive. Get Apps. Search by image. Products Suppliers Sourcing Requests Products. All Categories. Post Sourcing Request. Product List Supplier List. View: List View.

Gallery View. Order: 1 Set. Suppliers with verified business licenses. Suppliers reviewed by inspection services. Contact Now. Order: 1 Piece. Suitable for ages 14 and up, it will take about 35 hours to complete. It is an excellent instructional kit and gift for an avid canoeist or modeler. This model is the most advanced available. From the first moment the box was opened the kit provided me a great sense of satisfaction.

I redeveloped the required patience to successfully complete the challenge of constructing the canoe.

Thank you so much for doing what you do so well. Adding product to your cart.

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