Duckworks - Outrigger Canoe
That got me wondering if anyone has been successfully building plywood-constructed multihulls nowadays � particularly outrigger canoes � without epoxy encapsulation. Epoxy is difficult for me to work with on a large scale. I like it very much when it comes to mixing some up in a cup for use in small projects.� The key is that when you are penetrating for waterproofing you don�t want the material to create a film that covers surface like saran wrap or a coat of paint- which is my idea of �encapsulation�- you want it to be drawn deep into the wood pores by capillary action so that the pathway for future water migration is blocked by saturation. Plywood outrigger canoe plans is the key for you what person likes to corresponding ideas. For this reason people procured any step to take root the comprehensive data intended for major benefit of your readers. Discover a lot of our blog who enables you to obtain alot more articles and reviews related to the keywords. Plywood outrigger canoe plans - for helping establish the interest our targeted visitors are likewise satisfied to earn this page. increasing the standard of this content will certainly many of us try on in the future that allows you to quite figure out subsequent to encountered. Hanohano Outrigger Canoe Club men's team head coach Chris continues to give beginning OC1 paddlers an introduction to paddling mechanics of this polynesian w Race Training. Training Tips Way Of The Dragon Outrigger Canoe Paddle Boat Dragon Boat Paddles Water Crafts Boating.� Dragon Boat Technique Dragon boat: How to paddle? Technique step by step with key phrase. Dragon Boat Phase 2 Paddles Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Shirt Fitness. Youtube.

I found an interesting thread not long ago on the woodenboat forum about building a small plywood boat without epoxy. That got me wondering if anyone has been successfully building plywood-constructed multihulls nowadays � particularly outrigger canoes � without epoxy encapsulation.

Epoxy is difficult for me to work with on a large scale. I like it very much when it comes to mixing some up in a cup for use in small projects. And I am talking about painting with modern, water-based, easy-peasy cleanup paints � let alone epoxy mixtures. I know there are countless monohulls out there, including canoes, kayaks and small sailboats, built in plywood, without epoxy. But how many small multis? How many small tris? There are 2 big questions that immediately come to mind.

What needs to be done to ensure overall center hull strength and stiffness? And what can be done about exterior protection of hulls below the waterline? The plywood is held together with polyurethane glue and fasteners instead:.

The boat is painted and is always stored under a pole house, not exposed to sun or rain. See here and here and here for more on those. A big reason why no glass or epoxy encapsulation works here is the boat is built with old-fashioned stringer chine construction. That eliminates the need for epoxy taping at the chines. He also said plywood amas should really have some epoxy on at least the stem joints � and a strip of fiberglass along the keels.

His website and blog are always fun reading. Here is a nice video of the Tamanu from above sailing in Fiji�. The former has been done with plywood of course, and how long it lasts really just a matter of how much ongoing care and maintenance you want to do. Epoxy may be a bit easier to deal with in this regard than a water based product, since water based paint can interfere with glue and sealant bonds even after it is bone dry�but you can plan for it and prepping individual joints for adhesion is usually just a matter of scuffing them up if you have the material thinned out properly.

Using some ammonia instead of all water can help with penetration and will promote drying without warping and raising of the grain. They say the paint has held up very well many years. The heated air is cooled off from wetting the surface and from being put in the shade. Air that has expanded retracts rapidly and sucks in any liquid in the wood fiber.

It turns out a glossy finish without drippings and waste. One other aspect of the wood and epoxy coating issue that may contribute to problems with water retention and rot is when hulls originally designed for more traditional construction in the pre-plastics maybe even pre-plywood days are built using modern glues and sealant materials without any alterations to the structural parts to account for the difference between the old and new materials suited to that traditional construction�.

The same part built up using saturated laminations can eliminate this problem, or can at least provide multiple barriers to further water intrusion when dinged by something like a dropped anchor or winch handle.

Even just capping an exposed solid member with a single thin strip of wood that can be more thoroughly pre-saturated on all sides will effectively triple the amount of epoxy saturated layers that must be punctured to make a channel into the mass of raw wood.

I think many failed epoxy coated wooden boats fall into this category; especially in the DIY realm a hull design may have gone from planked to plywood to outer glass sheathing to full encapsulation without ever being completely adapted to the very different conditions involved in keeping each type of hull alive. It may have worked great going from planks to plywood or even glass over ply with little or no framing adaptation, but full encapsulation in space age plastics may be a step too far unless you approach it like a composite boat from the start.

Some excellent points here. You took them out, something broke, or a seam opened up and you addressed it NOW, or else�if too many topside seams were opening up, you took it out more often to keep things tight. Boats that were allowed to sit too long unused often never came back, and counterintuitively, the damage from being stored and ignored while out of the water for that duration was often far worse.

It had been poorly maintained but the bilge had been saturated with led orange paint, white lead paint as a primer inside the boat and in the hull below the water, and then varnish in the external topsides and white enamel alchidic on the interior. Mahogany plies and structural members were unblemished after scraping the boat to bare wood.

He wanted to go with epoxy. I had to insist to cinvince him that the evidence was that the previous treatment had worked fine for over 40 years, and changing would be a bad move. The bottomline is that copper and lead with salt water over high grade wood and resin rich woods are still hard to beat to contrast rot fungi in wooden boats.

Tin, lead and other paint components have been now banned for amateur building but remain available for some commercial uses. A wood biologist has found that regular automotive antifreeze is very, very good at preventing rot in the insides of wooden hulls. Just pour it in and let it soak up. Your email address will not be published. Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. You can also subscribe without commenting.

The plywood is held together with polyurethane glue and fasteners instead: In this post on his blog, Gary talks about his plan to build another one of his Tamanu models while on vacation. And in this post he talks about how the building of it went.

And here is Gary enjoying the newly built boat. So be it. Small Tri Guy on November 8, at pm. Stefano on November 9, at pm. Just a couple thoughts about painting or encapsulation. Small Tri Guy on November 11, at pm. Stefano on November 18, at pm.

Seabeau on November 26, at am. Small Tri Guy on November 26, at pm. Hi Seabeau, Seriously? We want some more info on this Submit a Comment Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Search for:. Want to stay updated on news here at SmallTrimarans?


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