Build a Plank on Plastic Model Ship Building Forum Games Frame Model Ship : 19 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables Model Shipways Tools - Trunnel Kit. $ Model Shipways Bamboo Toothpicks STICKS/BOTTLE - USE AS TRUNNELS. $ Euro Tool Knotting Tool. $ Home; Mantua Model Strip Clamp and Hull Vise for Ship Model Building. $ In Stock- Ready to Ship. Add to Wish List. Add To Cart. Quick View. Mantua Model Sanding Sticks for. The Complete Beginners Guide to Model Ship Building - page ebook & 5 DVD practicums covering Hull Planking, Deck Planking, Masting & Rigging - This unique set provides the easiest possible introduction to the world of modeling. You won't need to purchase any further tools, books or /5(73). Essential in any model building project, the Exacto knife is used for removing seam lines and general cutting.
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They are particularly useful when fairing the bulkhead frames of a model. Needle files are very small and fine files. The set consists of different shaped files�flat, half round, square, triangular, round and pointed. They are used to fractionally adjust small timber or metal items, adjust the size of holes or shape timber fittings.

You can use small brass nails and hammer them through each plank on to the bulkhead frame. The nail heads are either cut off or pulled out once the glue has set. Alternatively you could use map pins which are used in a similar way to the nails. They have the advantage of being slightly bigger than the brass nails and hence easier to handle. The map pin is removed Tools Needed For Model Ship Building Key when the glue has set.

Another popular method is to use Planking Screws. These items are reusable. The foot is placed on the plank in its location. The screw piece is screwed into the bulkhead frame through a small hole in the foot.

Tightening the screw piece into the bulkhead holds the plank in position while the glue sets. One planking screw is used to hold the plank in position on each bulkhead frame. The plank bender has a blunt blade edge and a flat surface in its the jaws.

Placing a plank on the flat surface between the jaws and squeezing the handles gently will bring the blade down onto the plank. By gently crimping the plank along a length will start to cause the plank to curve around.

Crimping at approximately 1cm intervals will be enough to start with. If further curvature is required re-crimp between these intervals and continue until the required curvature is achieved. Care needs to be taken not to crimp too hard as this will break the plank. Gentle crimping will achieve the goal. It has a small head to allow access to confined spaces. A Pin Vice is a hand held chuck for small drills. The swivel top pin vice shown has a reversible chuck along with another reversible chuck in the head of the shaft.

This gives it considerable versatility in the size of drills the pin vice can be used with. A range of small drills will always be handy while model building. Care needs to be taken while using the drills especially the very small items as they are easily broken. Do not apply too much push pressure while drilling and turn the pin vice slowly. The typical size of drills used are 0.

X-Acto craft knives have a range of different handles and blades. Blades are held securely in the X-Acto handle by a cross-shaped clamp that closes as the metal sleeve is screwed tight. Go to any model, or art shop, a hardware store, or web site selling modelling products and you will find a wide range of craft knives.

They provide small, medium and large handles with many shapes of interchangable blade. The blades are held in an X-shaped clamp that grips the blade when a metal sleeve is tightened. The blade is held very securely and yet is very easy to change. Swann-Morton knives also have a wide range of blades and are more suited to delicate work. Another famous brand is Swann-Morton whose knifes are really surgical scalpels. The standard handle on this is metal and small which you will either love or hate, but a larger acrylic handle is available.

They offer a wide range of blade shapes, but the blades on these can be tricky to change. These knives are very sharp and tend to be delicate, so are particuarly suited to detail work. Many other makes are available including some with retractable blades a useful safety and transport feature and some with snap off blades. It comes down to personal choice.

If at all possible, try holding a knife at a shop or model show before you purchase and make sure that you will have easy access to replacement blades, because it is surprising how many are used. All the safety guides tell you to cut away from you, but many people find this difficult. If you are cutting towards you then take care, use only light pressure and keep a firm grip on both the knife and model.

New blades are inexpensive, so change them regularly. This blade holder is not only a handy way to keep fresh blades at the ready, but it also gives safe storage of used blades. Knifes and blades come in different shapes and sizes so make sure you are using the correct one for the job. Never use a lightweight knife and blade for a heavy job. It is a good idea to have several knife handles so you can have different shaped blades at the ready. When cutting on a surface always make sure that you put something down that will protect the surface without ruining your blade.

When disposing of used blades, do not just throw them in the bin where they may cause injury. Wrap masking tape around the blade and enclose it in card. Alternatively, keep all old blades together in a sturdy box and throw away the box when it is full.

Plastic parts will need to be cleaned up and possibly re-shaped. The minimum you will need is a couple of sheets of sandpaper which you may be able to get from a hardware store. However, they may not stock the finer grades that you will need. Sanding papers come in different grades of courseness. The most course will be something like 60 grit which has a surface like the moon and the finest grades go down to grit and above which are so smooth they feel like varnished wood.

When starting out, and grit will probably be the most useful and other grades can be added as needed. The grade of the paper is normally printed on the reverse side. This is better quality, will give consistent results and will last much longer. It can also be used on metal parts.

The top two tweezers are standard, differing only in the angle of the points. The third pair from the top are spring loaded. Perhaps it could be argued that these are not actually essential and if you have small fingers and are very dextrous that may be true.

Many modellers will find positioning very small parts almost impossible without tweezers and they will certainly make things a lot easier. They come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Some are straight ended and some have the ends at an angle. There are types that are spring loaded so they grip the object automatically whilst others can be locked on the object with whatever pressure the user wants.

Many modellers build up a collection of tweezers as they progress. No matter how many different pairs of tweezers you have you will always find some object or place where you cannot quite reach.

That completes the list of really essential tools and armed with these it should be possible to complete a simple model. This is a side cutter made by Xuron and whilst it costs more than some budget models, the cutters are hardened and should give good service for many years. Removing parts from the sprue with a knife is difficult and risks damaging the part. A small pair of pliers that snips off the part leaving very little of the sprue is very helpful and both saves time and increases modelling pleasure.

Xuron is a popular brand although there are others on the market. Flush cutters and similar types of pliers and cutters vary in quality enormously. Be very wary of cheap tools of this type and stick to a respected name. Cheap tools are often made of inferior materials and will very soon begin to show wear giving poor results. Although the production standards for model kits have improved out of all recognition since the early days of the hobby, modellers still do a lot of sanding and shaping.

The different colours on these sanding sticks indicate how course they are.




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