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Deciding on a kitchen style is a big decision and so is the worktop that is going to adorn your beautiful looking kitchen for many years to come!

By reading this article, you are either planning on getting a wooden worktop or you already have one! Wooden worktops differ a little to laminate and granite as they need a little more love and attention. Before you install your worktop for the first time, it is recommended that you oil it about 4 times with some protective wood oil. As each thin coat of oil is absorbed and dries, rinse and repeat until complete.

Any cut outs in the worktop like sinks, tap holes and the ends need more attention to ensure they are water tight, as these sections will have bare wood showing, so they will need more layers of oil than the top surface. One thing to remember is that oiling your worktop wooden kitchen worktop oil 0g not make it shiny like a gloss kitchen door, it is purely giving your worktop a waterproof coating and to keep it looking great!

Once your worktop is fitted, it is recommended that you oil it about 3 times a year. In order to ensure that your wooden worktop stays in tip condition, please look at the points. Remember, prevention kitcgen always better than the cure.

With wooden worktops, you are wooden kitchen worktop oil 0g to sand them down to get a wooden kitchen worktop oil 0g clean looking surface. You will need to start off with around grit sandpaper to get any worktop blemishes out then use a finer sandpaper near the end of the sanding, around grit to wooden kitchen worktop oil 0g a smooth finish.

Any scratches that came from using the grit sandpaper will be rubbed out with the finer sandpaper. It is also advisable to keep a vacuum cleaner close to hand to suck up all the dust created.

Remember, when sanding down your wooden worktops, always sand along the grain of the worktop to prevent any unnecessary scratches that will be hard to remove. Most wooden worktop oils are made from vegetable oils. As there are a aooden different types of oils out there, here is a short list of some of the most common ones.

Danish Oil � Easiest to use � mixture of oils and dries quickly and leaves a gleaming satin finish. Favoured by. Teak oil � Natural, extracted from vegetable and dries quickly and will leave a slight sheen.

Tung oil � Thicker oil that takes much longer to dry but leaves a solid finish. Some say that this oil, which originated in China, is the best one to use! Linseed oil � This oil is taken from the seeds of wooden kitchen worktop oil 0g flax plant.

The oil is usually boiled so that it becomes thinner and easier to apply. It also dries quicker. Linseed oil is also edible! Looking for some kitchen inspiration? Take a look at some of our real customer kitchens, video reviews as well as advice in our mobile app. At DIY Kitchens, not only do you get a quality wrktop built kitchen but you also get it at a fabulous worktlp too!

Take a look at our kitchen price comparison page. An experienced kitchen fitter advised me to use three coats of hardwax oil on wooden worktops. Although used mainly for oak floors, I found this to be Wooden kitchen worktop oil 0g more durable on my oak worktops than any other surface finish. It lasted 5 years in a heavily used family kitchen without needing any further treatment. Hi, we would like a wooden worktop on our large island mm x mmwhich will require two pieces of oak.

How can the two pieces be joined so that the join is as unnoticeable as possible? Would we be better off going with another supplier who can produce a single piece wooden kitchen worktop oil 0g us? Thank you! Hi Lucy, if you are wwooden the worktops together you would need to workttop the wood filler to make the joins less visible, We have this available on the solid wood worktop page, within the accessories section.

It would be your own preference if you would prefer to find a supplier that could offer a larger worktop. Best result will be to get a super stave full staves of wood and these will be made to measure so you will have no joints and the entire worktop will be made up of only 2 or 3 pieces of wood, rather than worktops that are made up of small pieces jenga as my dooden calls itthen the joints look terrible.

I was in fitted kitchens for yrs and this is the only way you will get an almost wooden kitchen worktop oil 0g piece of wood look. This site uses Akismet kitcgen reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Do I need to oil my wooden worktop? Open Kitchen Units. What are Dekton worktops? Breakfast bar inspiration. Are your kitchens units supplied with fittings?

What types of plinths are available? Dovetail drawer upgrade. Kitchen Jargon Explained. Tags: worktop wooden sanding oil danish tung. David says: Reply. Lucy says: Reply. Diy Kitchens says: Reply. Leave A Comment Cancel reply Comment.

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This combination will give a long lasting and durable finish for your wooden worktops. For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with one of our friendly team via our contact us page. Its not going to be used for food prep and needs to be hard wearing so is a varnish going to be better than oil? The is a sink so there will be water splashed about.

Can you recommend any particular product? We would like to keep the wood as light as possible. It sounds like an interesting project, my concern would be that if it has been used as a science lab table that a wide range of chemicals and substances may have been absorbed into the wood over the years. Test areas will be vital with whatever product you decide to use.

There are a couple of options that you are able to consider and the first, that you have mentioned, is a varnish, Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is Kitchens With Wooden Worktops Up a surface sealer with a long lasting durability. It has anti bacterial properties that make it perfect for kitchen surfaces.

The only down side to a varnish is that should the seal break down at any point and allow moisture under it will peel and flake fairly quickly and can be difficult to repair. The alternative is and oiled finish, this has the benefit of being a penetrating finish that will not peel and flake over time, it is not as long lasting as a varnish, however is easier to maintain and repair. Used with the Osmo Wood Protector in sink area this will give a well protected moisture repellent finish.

This requires application to bare wood that has been sanded to a � grit and so to use this you may need to re sand and open up the grain a little and for Iroko I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin designed for use on hardwoods such as Iroko. The oil will highlight more so than the varnish any imperfections that may be in the wood due to its history. I hope this helps some and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.

I have a large quantity of Osmo Polyx oil left over. Is it OK to use it on wooden kitchen worktops instead of buying a new tin of Top Oil? The Polyx Oil will be fine to use on your work tops as long as the wood is ready to accept further coats.

Test areas will help to determine this. Osmo Polyx Oil is food safe once dry and will give as good a protective finish to your work top as the Osmo Top Oil will. I hope that helps but please do not hesitate to get back to me if you have any further questions. Can you advise which of your products I should try please? Thank you. Thank you for coming to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. I can recommend the Osmo Top Oil Natural This protective oil contains a minute amount of white pigments to counteract the darkening you would usually get with a clear oil.

It should leave the wood looking as untreated as possible, whilst still offering a moisture repellent and durable finish. Unfortunately sample sizes are not available in the product range but a very close product you could try if you wanted is the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw this has a 5ml sample sachet for a test area and I always recommend a test area first as the wood that you are applying to will impact on the colour and finish that will be achieved.

I have recently brought a Rimforsa kitchen island from IKEA which has a wooden worktop, which I have since found out is bamboo. What are the best products to seal this natural wood and for food preparation. Many thanks. If the worktop does not currently have a finish applied then I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an interior wood oil that is ideal for tight grained wood or woods that are naturally high in oil content.

Bamboo is a naturally dense wood that will accept an oil but will have a low uptake, two very thin coats are all that is required and I would recommend a test area first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved.

If you need any further advice we have a great team on hand to answer any questions on or via our contact us page. We have solid oak kitcheb bench, it has become water damaged around sink area, i managed to sand out the dark marks, but then as soon as i apply the danish oil it clings to the previous parts that were water damaged and looks even worse?

Water stains can penetrate quite deep and you may need to do further sanding to restore the wood. But once you have been able to remove the stain I would strongly recommend a product such as the Osmo Wood Protector to be apply to the bare wood first, this is very moisture repellent protective finish specifically for areas that are exposed to moisture ingress.

I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. The worktops are in very good condition with no water damage etc. Once sanded back to bare wood, if you wipe with a damp, not wet, cloth the darkening you get from doing this will show you Wren Kitchens Wooden Worktops 7.1 what any clear product will achieve. Iroko is a very hardwearing tropical hard wood and when sanded you will bring the natural oils to the surface of the wood.

I would recommend wiping over the surface with some Methylated Spirits first this will aid absorption of oil treatments and due to the type of wood Wooden Kitchen Worktop Oil Changes you are treating there is only one that I would recommend, Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin the thinner oil will penetrate the surface of the wood better.

If you have a read up of that product and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have. Always try a test area first. Having looked at lots of useful information on your website I am thinking of using Manns Premier Top Oil or Osmo Extra Thin to renovate my beech worktops. I will probably apply the oil by brush � will I be able to clean the brushes in water or is white spirit required?

The two oils you are looking at are great options for a Beech Worktop. They will require application to bare well prepared wood and as always I recommend a test area to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. Brush application is ideal and you can remove any excess with a lint free cloth. Then Brushes will require cleaning with some White Spirits first to remove all of the oil and then a good rinse in some warm soapy water.

I think the Holzol worktop oil is the one for us. I know right!! Making a decision on which product to use can be difficult. And the two top oils that you are considering are both very good. When there are so many products to choose from how do you know which one is right? Well both are available in sample sizes and so this should be your starting point.

I know it makes the process a little longer but in the long run testing those products will help to get the desired finish. To be fair they are very similar in look and finish, I would expect the Osmo to have the slight edge on coverage but the Holzol is quicker drying. Essentially they both require two thin coats for application.

We have moved into a property that had solid dark looking walnut worktops. I have spent the weekend sanding these down quite significantly and the result is a lot lighter and we like this lighter more natural look, but what is our next step.

I have sanded with a 40 grain so presume I now need to do a much finer round but what do we oil with after that will keep this new look that we like? Really would appreciate any advice.

Thank you for your question, yes, is the answer sanding to a finer grit. So depending on how much time you would like to spend on it and how smooth your would like the surface to be, you Wooden Kitchen Worktop Oil Kitty could sand with a 80 grit next and then finish with a grit.

Or going straight to the grit will be fine, this will still give a smooth even finish ready for application of a Hard Wax Oil to protect the wood. To keep the wood looking and feeling natural but still offer the protection required for a kitchen worktop I would recommend Holzol Worktop Oil this particular oil is a little thinner than some of the others and will work better with a hardwoods such as Walnut and Oak.

W9ndering which oil is best for iroko which I am having installed in a couple of weeks. Can you tell me a little more about your project, is it interior or exterior?

Decking, flooring, furniture or something else. And i may be able to narrow down some options for you. If you would like to email me direct you can do his through our contact us page.

Both have the Pros and Cons for sure. If we start with a varnish, this is a surface sealer that is certainly more durable, longer lasting and hard wearing.

It sits on the surface of the wood and can be compared to a plastic like finish, however many of the modern varnishes now also give a more natural look and come in a range of sheens. The downside to varnish is that it is harder to repair or change down the line, scratches are difficult to hide or repair. It can be easier to apply and has a quicker drying time. Oils although still very durable and hard wearing will not last as long as a varnish, they have a far more natural look and feel and many people prefer this and only require two very thin coats applied, so a little goes a long way.

The benefit of having an oil is that it is far easier to maintain and repair over time. So if a scratch or accident marks the oil the you can lightly sand the effected area and re oil, it will blend well and nearly always look as good as new. When it starts to fade you can simply clean the floor and reapply the oil with out the new to strip. My advice would be to sand back the floor and if you are unsure of which route you want to take, both varnishes and oils are available in sample sizes on our website and it is important to try the products on your wood as the type, age and condition of the wood will all impact on the finish that will be achieved.

I hope that helps and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact page. We have a lovely maple kitchen that was installed in and still looks good overall.

The work surfaces have been oiled occasionally but not recently and are beginning to look a bit grubby in places. We used a Ronseal worktop oil last time. What would you recommend we use this time and what steps should I take to prepare before application?

Do I need to sand down the surfaces � there are a few water stains near the sink but the rest is just slightly grimy mixed with old oil I think?

I understand oil sealants are much improved recently. What is the best one for maple? You advice will be much appreciated.

Kind regards David. Thank you for your questions. For the best result you can remove all the existing finish by sanding, removing all the previous oil and wiping down with White Spirit once clean and dry the wood is ready for fresh treatment and to start with I would recommend the Osmo Wood Protector this is particularly good for areas exposed to a fair amount of moisture and temperature changes.

It will help prevent damage to the wood. You can then follow this with a top coat of Osmo Top Oil which will make the moisture and stain repellent and is a very durable and hard wearing finish.

I do strongly recommend test areas with both products as they can and will darken the wood very slightly and you will need to ensure you like the finish to be achieved. We are buying walnut worktops. How much oil to apply comes down to the type of oil used. The benefit of these is that they offer exceptional durability, are very easy to apply and maintain, require minimal maintenance and in most cases require just 2 thin coats.

As Walnut is a dense hardwood, the top, bottom, sides and ends will only require 2 thin coats of a hard wax oil. When applying its important to work the oil into the surface of the wood grain and wipe off any excess oil with a clean, lint-free cloth. All the brands mentioned are excellent and although they all have their own unique formulations, they all offer excellent protection on kitchen worktops. For further information about each product, please feel free to contact one of our resident wood experts who are on hand and happy to answer any questions you may have.

What application would you recommend? We also have an iroko island unit worktop which I have tried several times to treat with polyeurethane but it get white marks when cleaned with damp cloths and is not hard wearing.

Any best ideas for this surface too Thanks. Are you able to tell me what the current finish is on the table, varnish or oil? Or are you planning to strip back to bare wood? In regards to the Iroko Island, it could be in relation to a high oil content in the Iroko, being a tropical hard wood it has a tight grain and a naturally high oil content and this could be impacting on the polyurethane.

If you are planning to remove the treatment and bring the Iroko back to bare wood I would recommend, firstly wiping over with Barrettine Methylated Spirits to remove the natural oil from the surface.

And then you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an extra thin oil suited for use with tropical hard wood such as Iroko. It will absorb better and only two thin coats are required for this. If you have a look at the products recommended and feel free to get back to me with any questions via our contact us page. Any suggestions please?

You could have a look at the Bona Craft Oil which has a couple of paler colours in the range. Applying a lighter colour on to a darker wood does not always give the desired colour and so I would recommend test area first to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved, the wood that you are applying to will impact on the over all colour to be achieved.

This product does not come in a sample size unfortunately. So for an alternate that does have a sample size you could have a look at Osmo Polyx Oil Tints. There is a white in this range it is quite a subtle white and may be enough to highlight the grain.

Test areas are the key to getting the look you want. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. We have had just brand new light oak, full stave worktops fitted to our new kitchen.

The colouring is very important to the whole aesthetic � matching the grey panted cabinet doors and our light oak engineered flooring. So we want to avoid applying any protective oils etc. Do you have any ideas about what might be the best coating we could apply to retain the colour as much as possible. Many clear products will change the wood very slightly, darkening a little or highlighting the grain and natural tones of the wood.

As you are looking to treat a worktop it needs to be a durable finish and so I would recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw. This is a durable and hard wearing product that is moisture and dirt resistant.

It is easy to apply and food safe once dry. It requires two thin coats applied to bare wood and because it has a minute amount of white pigment in it, this counteracts the darkening effect you get with the clear products. There is a sample size available and I would recommend a test area first.

I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch. We are having our kitchen redone. Our old wooden worktop was finished with Danish Oil and while this looked good,it is too dark for what we now have in mind.

Sanding is a vital part of preparing the worktop for the oiling process, helping to define how the worktop will look but more importantly, how the worktop will feel once you have finished oiling. All of our worktops are expertly hand-finished although we recommend that our customers give the worktop a final finish sanding with finer paper to their desired level.

You can sand the worktop by hand or by electric sander. Use the grit paper to sand down the entire surface, including the exposed edges. Repeat this process with the grit paper, taking care to run the sand paper down the grain and not across as that will result in scratches. After reaching the desired smoothness, you can apply the oil. The minimum amount of coats we suggest is six on both sides prior to installation. The first step is to select a warm and dry environment as the oil will dry quicker, ensure the floor is covered too since the oil will drip from the underside.

With this in mind, it would probably be best to wear some old clothing during the oiling! Timing is important. Wooden worktops need to be oiled on both sides in the same sitting, not doing so can upset the balance of the worktop.

You should also never leave the worktop face down if that surface is still wet. Doing so will mark the surface. The first side of the worktop to be oiled is the underneath so turn the worktop face down.

Oil all of the exposed edges first, to ensure that no drip marks show later on, and then apply a comprehensive first coat, slowly working the oil around the entire underside surface.

Apply enough that it is easy to wipe across the surface but not enough that the oil pools or runs. Once you have completed the underside, turn the worktop over, dab the cloth with some oil and run the cloth around the edges again. At this point, you will be glad to have worn old clothes and covered the floor! Run oil over the entire top surface of the worktop, working the oil around for a couple of minutes until the whole surface is covered.

As mentioned before, linseed oil is suitable natural oil that is used as an ingredient for many other related products.

Danish Oil is one of them � it is a mixture of polymerized linseed oil, varnish and drying agents, which combine to achieve a hard-wearing and water-resistant finish for wooden worktops. Danish oil is one of the most popular choices when it comes to oiling wooden worktops. Overall, it is an improved version of the Linseed Oil, as it also contains varnish and different drying agents, which help for a more hard-wearing surface and shorter drying times.

Contrary to its name, teak oil in fact does not actually contain any oils or reminiscent of the teak tree. Many types of teak oil provide a good protective barrier for wooden worktops, but will often create a glossy sheet that � in our opinion � does not accentuate the beauty of hardwood timber worktop and looks artificial. Osmo Top Oil is a hard-wearing treatment specially formulated to protect your wooden kitchen worktop surface with a semi-matt appeal.

Its highly hardwearing oil which has a natural microporous natural hardwax-oil wood finish. It is extremely moisture and water repelling and dirt resistant. The finish is resistant against wine, beer, cola, coffee, tea, fruit juices, milk, water and food particles. These types of liquid spillages will tightly bead on the surface without leaving any marks and can be simply cleaned by wiping with a cloth.

Osmo Top Oil requires minimal preparation before application. The product can easily be applied late at night, left to dry and will be ready to use the following morning. With an attractive luster, this product is available in clear satin, clear matt, acacia and natural tones.

However, just like anything else that is part of the nature, the wood worktops needs to be cared for and maintained on a regular basis in order to preserve their character, liveliness and colors.

There are a wide variety of oils out there that are recommended for treating wooden worktops, however each one has its own application instructions, its own advantages and disadvantages. So, the question remains, how do we choose the right wood worktop oil? Olive Oil is the most ancient method, but it is definitely not the right choice, if you want to protect your worktop. Teak Oi is a reasonable option which provides sufficient protection, but does not accentuate the colors of the timber, so if you want to show off with your symbolic Solid Oak Kitchen Worktop or characterful Walnut Wooden Worktop , Teak Oil is probably not the right choice for you!

Linseed Oil is a very effective timber oil, but Danish Oil does contain Linseed Oil and it is an elaborated version of it.

So Danish Oil is one of the most popular choices, as it easily penetrates the pores of the wood, accentuates the colors and grain pattern and most importantly provides a durable protective barrier to the wooden worktop. Nevertheless, it does require multiple coatings and a regular maintenance.

Our favorite choice is Osmo Oil.

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